WartedEmperor

I was wondering if the O.S. .55 AX ABL w/Muffler would fit into my .40 Seamaster since that engine has the same mounting holes as the O.S. .46 AX?

JimCasey

My Feedback: (1)

Your problem is likely to be propeller clearance. I don't think there is room on the Seamaster for a 12" prop. Maybe a 3-blade 11". Check first and see if I am right. I don't have a Seamaster to measure.

WartedEmperor

Ok, My seamaster is coming in today. I did not order the engine yeat because of maybe an issue like that.

Lamoilleriver

I run a OS .46 FX on my kit built Seamaster, the distance from the centerline of the crankshaft and the deck is 5 and 15/16. I am swinging a MAS 11x6. The kit gave me the option to adjust the height, do not know if the ARF gives you the same option. If anybody from ACE is out there please re-introduce the Seamaster kit again.

WartedEmperor

Well I have a question. On page 5 in the manual it has this piece of tape going all up and down the page covering the whole thing. Is this suppost to not be followed. It shoes all the parts and I can barely see through the covering and it looks like alot of my parts quanitys differ than what is on their. What should I do?

WartedEmperor

Another thing that is weird is that I have some spare parts and some parts that I have no idea what they go to. Did you end up with these parts they are not even on the part diagram? Also it did not come with the screws to bolt the engine to the mount or did it come with three wheel collars and one nose collar. Also can you send me some pictures of the nose wheel setup. It does not look right the way I have it even without some parts?

magyarbacsi

Hmmm. How many and what do they look like. I dont remember having any spare parts. If you are not using the land conversion, i.e. wheel and steerable front, you will have some hardware parts. Mine was dedicated for water use only and did not want to add extra weight.

WARNING. WARNING.

Before you drill the holes in the main wing for mounting the trailing edge, make sure it is over the blind nuts mounting in the fuse. Some booklets give measurments that will cause you to drill right through the aileron rods.

gravelhack

Yup I got lucky and stopped drilling right before I hit the tube. I moved the holes up the wing but this WRONG....DONT DO IT. I am going to redrill thru the solid trailing edge piece, more secure.

WartedEmperor

I am using the land conversion and I almost cut off my finger cutting the nose cone. Thank goodness my dad is a doctor and he had all the supplies to fix it here at home.

I will post a picture of the spare parts. It is weird how I have to many parts for something and not enough parts for the other.

Should I call Ace Hobby or Towerhobbies if it is missing some screws even though I got it from Towerhobbies?

Will you tell me the deminsion I should drill for the wing?

WartedEmperor

I called Ace Hobby to ask them where all the parts go and I got it figured out.

I still have a problem when the screw and bolt for the wing do not fit together well even when it is out of the plane. It seems that it only grips the first threads. Is there a trick to this that I should do?

magyarbacsi

Sometimes glue will get on the threads or just a rough cut thread makes screwing the bolts in harder. If you have a set of taps, find the right size and clean the bore out. You can also find a standard metal screw and run it in through a few times.

Cant remember if I had to drill and install the block and blind nuts in the fuze for the wing. Currently working on the Neptune and that is pre insalled.I think I had to mount and drill the blocks. Its been over a year I did this. If you mount the wing blocks, mark the spot you intend to use for drilling. Before you actually drill ANY holes, make a template as accurate as possible out of carboard or such of the inside of the fuse and fit it over the marked spot you intend to drill. Make the same marking on the template that is on the mounting block. Find the center line of the fuse that lines up with the trailing edge of the wing and make a small thin mark on the fuse and the tamplate. This will be your index mark so be as accurate as possible in the measurements.Leave the template in place still.

Place the main wing in the saddle and center it. The booklet should tell you how. In case not, pick a center line mark as far back on the fuse. as possible. The left and right main wing tip should have equal distance to this index. When you got it right on, make a mark on the back of the wing that matches up with the center line of the fuse. A thin mark. The c/l mark on the template, wing and fuse should all the same and line up. Now, remove the template, place it on the wing and line up the index mark of the template to the mark on the wing.
See why you have to be accurate and use small as pissible,thin, line marks? Now look at the two marks you made on the template that indicates the screw holes. Now you can see where the holes will end up. If through the ailron rods, or hollow balsa
area, move to the solid block. Re mark the template if needed and transfer the mark on to the mounting blocks. Yoy should be right on. Mount the wing again, tape it in place and carefuly drill your holes through the wing and continue through in the block, all at the sime time. The holes will line up.

I place a small insert, plastic or brass thin tube into the holes of the wing, flush with the top and bottom surface, to keep from crushing the wood under it by over tightening the wing bolts. I do this when the holes are in balsa wood and use thin ca to secure the inserts. Take your time and measure twice before drilling.

gravelhack

great advice.......I drilled mine wrong and had to redo it. My seamaster ARF is brand new and the blocks were installed in the fuse. I redrilled the holes 3/8" from the trailing edge. This puts the holes right through the T.E. stock. Make sure you drill in far enough from the sides of the fuse to accomodate the large diameter blind nuts, the will bind against the fuse sides if you dont.
Good Seamaster advice on here, let us know how the Neptune compares to the Seamaster too.

topgun600

My Feedback: (41)

Here is my not so Sea masterOOOPS ARF with a novva rossi 61. counter balance crank with inflight mixture control, I made a new pod mount out of 3/8 birch, made the pod 1/2 inch taller, glassed the pod with west systems & 3/4 oz clothe,added a micro servo for the mixture control in the pod next to the throttle servo, Im running 13.6 prop tune pipe.also glassed the center section of the wing for added stiffness,no tail weight was needed, plane fly's great in the air in less then 25 ft

magyarbacsi

topgun, to be technical, your pictures are of a Lanier Mariner. The qualaty control varies from factory to factory. I jad one and never liked it. Give it to Davey Jones, after many attemts to correct factory constructions. Some are built right. You must be one of the lucky ones.

In my opinion and experience, the Seamaster is a lot easier plane to fly. Glad your Mariner is doing fine. Keep on eye in the tail section. Many owners had problem later with the glue/wood failure where the elevators would fail.

topgun600

My Feedback: (41)

My bad!!!! It is a Lanier Mariner what was i thinking[sm=bananahead.gif], caught up in the moment of sharring,,,but almost the same plane and the tail was glued useing shoe goop just for that reason[sm=shades_smile.gif]

magyarbacsi

John, I had a Mariner. have Seamaster, Seamonster, and just finishing up the Neptune. Seamonster and Mariner both have v bottom. The other two are flat. Of the four, Neptune, at least the one I got, has a partial frame work for the fuselage. The others have solid sheathing. I like the solid sheathing. The Neptune is lighter, but I have to be more careful as not to puncture the covering and create a leak. Master and Neptune are neck-to-neck as far as construction and looks. The tail section is the best on the Neptune. Sold, strong and has a hollow channel for elevator control rod. I just like that clean and funcional fiature. The Monster has the elev. push rod going next to the vertical fin. Looks kinda odd.
Out of the box, both Master and Neptune had the wings right on the money regardin wing incidence to thrust line. I have abandoned construction of the Monster for now and about to complete the Neptune that weighed in dry at 6lb 1oz. The master at 6 lb 80z The two are very identical and even use the same engine cowl. I like the plastic removable nose on the Master as it makes adding weight easy for balancing.Hope to maiden the Neptune as soon as the weather improves. Let you know if it flies any different from the Master. I think it will be the same, easy.

WartedEmperor

I would have gotten the Neptune except I am at the lake 90% of the time, but I wanted to be able to take it with me to the flying field and my grandfather's farm.

I was never able to get the bolts on for the wing mount. So I am going to go to Lowes when they reopen after the holiday. Also I am going to do that copper tubeing for the bolts, and I am going to try to do it to the water rudder hole so it does not hurt the wood on the rudder.

I wanted to ask you where did you put the easy fuel valve since the pod covers almost the whole engine?

magyarbacsi

What I found on mine was that the blind nuts were not fully seated and the wing bolts would only catch several threads. Get a couple of spacers and run the wing screws, without the wing, throught the mounting and pull the blind nuts all the way in. Then check to see if the screws reach with the wing on. It should catch. If not, you may have to change to a longer screw. I ended up using longer allen head screws, 8x32 and re threaded the existing blind nuts to match.

gravelhack

I seated my blind nuts(twice......did it wrong the first time!) with a pair of medium sized channelock pliers turned upside down. I squeezed the block and the blind nuts together to seat them.

WartedEmperor

I got my .55 AX in today and it fits like a glove.