Mojavegold

My Feedback: (71)

Very cool... I don't know if the rivets under the covering would work. Seems like the definition would be lost when the covering shrinks and leaves little air pockets around the base of the rivet, but who knows. Maybe the trick would be to seal the wood, then apply stick on rivets, then paint the floats silver. Now that could end up looking very cool.

furn1593

progress..........

V2PLUS10

That looks great...the rigging should make it pretty rigid. Tiny drops of canopy glue can simulate rivets....tedious work though!!

Randy

furn1593

im supprised how much stiffer the wires made it. trying to figure out what to use to make the bows black and cover up my poor covering job. ideas? i was thinking dipping in liquid electrial tape, would be nicely simulated rubber and add a little needed weight to the tips... again thoughts/ideas?

V2PLUS10

Liquid electrical tape....That sounds like a good idea...the suction ought to keep it in place. Paint probably won't stick that well anyway and you need the weight.....

Randy

furn1593

The liquid electrical tape looks awsome and seems to stick well to the covering. Getting ready to set up the cvs video camera, any requests for the inboard point of view? I was thinking down and forward with some of the float in view.

V2PLUS10

How about from the back seat!!

More Pictures!!

furn1593

V2PLUS10

They do look good! I had to google a cvs videocam to see what it was. I've always wanted to try the one Hobby lobby markets....not such a great picture though I guess.....I don't think the cvs ones are available here...but i'll look...

Randy

furn1593

took it out for taxi tests today, floats seem perfect, i couldnt be happier. There was quite a wind blowing and it was rougher than i would have liked, and about 37 degrees out. Either way im satisified that its not under floated, and the v bottom handled the chop today like it was nothing. Wind was straight at my face, couldnt turn to downwind, had to sail it back (thinking about retractable water rudder now), i havent posted it but it now has flaps which cut some of the sailing time down. The first was a plow taxi, second a step taxi (good tracking with the headwind and the v bottoms) which resulted in liftoff and about a 3 foot flight at 4" of altitude. Third was wet, flaps 10 degrees, put the power on, just before it reached getting on the step it rotated and minor tip stall occured, resulting in a flip. bummer.!! Note to self: mix some down elevator to flaps. I got my winter flying fix, and some cold toes, see ya all in the spring.

V2PLUS10

Very good!! After flying mine I thought that V bottomed floats might be better. But the flat bottoms really pop off the water.
Having flown the T-Craft both on wheels and on floats, the added weight of the floats make the model more susceptible to tip stalls, especially when they lift off too soon.....

Can't wait for Spring and some flight reports/video(onboard!!)

Randy

furn1593

V2PLUS10

Perfect!!

Falcon6667

>>>>>>>OUTSTANDING<<<<<<<
Question???I am surprised to see no ice?Where are you?
Falcon

furn1593

there was ice in the morning, now theres 16" of snow on the ground and the ice is back 12 degrees out now, high of 20 tomorrow. did some more work in the shop

V2PLUS10

Floats work pretty well off of snow.....the 21st is the first day of Spring though....!

Randy

furn1593

first 4 flights made last weekend - AWESOME!! couldnt be happier, well.... need to add spray rails... It was at the Whitman Flyers Lake Ronkonoma Float fly - huge turnout.... if anyone that sees this that was there and you took pictures - please post them...

ORRO23

I am just about to buy this Taylor Craft and get the floats from the recommened web site, but I see that you used 28" floats and the previous posted used 24". What's the advantage the longer or shorter floats?
Thanks

furn1593

V2PLUS10

I agree with Furn....I ordered the 28" floats thinking that if they looked too long I'd cut them down a bit. But I did not alter them. They work fine as they are but 26" would probably be ideal. I used the flat bottomed floats but I added some carbon fiber rods to the bottoms in front of the step, lengthwise to act as sort of a keel, helps tracking just a little. To me the 24" floats just looked too short.

ORRO23

Thanks for answeing my question. As latter, I backed read and found this had already been discussed. Anyway you guys are good about repeats. Thanks.

Did you all stay with the stock motor or go with what brand and speed controller?


I would like to see a closer picture of how each of you mounted the riging and gear to your floats. That would help me get a better idea for myself. BTW are your floats able to be removed for transport or as I suspect, once on you don't want to be taking them off.

I really liked the info on the cvs video. Wondering more about that too so additional info would be great.
Very close now to making my dission to buy!

Thanks

V2PLUS10

I used the Eflite 480 motor, and the speed control is an eflite 40 I think...it's the one with the BEC switch so the radio can be switched on and off when the flight battery is hooked up. I ordered a replacement main landing gear to use as a front float mount. Six screws, four on the back mounting straps and the two main gear mounting screws and the floats are removable as a unit. I'll see if I can get a picture later. I think the T-Craft would benefit from a wider stance on the floats than the stock main gear allows. Another inch or two is all, but that would make it look and work better.

furn1593

mines got a e-flite 450 and 25amp esc, use flightpower 1800 from hobbycity. Its not a rocketship but then again float planes are supposed to be (mines a bit heavier than stock with all the repairs and mods) . cvs cam link,http://camerahacks.10.forumer.com/was looking for another one at the store yesterday actually and there werent any on the shelf, so checking this one out.http://www.nitroplanes.com/sm18gfpvmivi.html
Rear float mount has 1/4" doubler epoxied inside fuse to beef it up, my customfront mount bolts to the exising blind nuts. Floats are removeable, it takes me a little longer to switch to wheels because the water rudder is connected to the rudder servo and not the tail horn (makes for a cleaner install - i think)

V2PLUS10

Once again, looking back, a 450 would have been fine for me. We are at about 2800' here soI went with the 480 and a 2200ma three cell battery. Trouble is you get in that biggermotor needs a biggerbattery which adds weight which requires a biggermotor etc etc...I'd do it a little differently ifI were to do it again, but I'm happy with it just the way it is....

ORRO23

I have been thinking of buying this motor for the taylor Craft from http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...dproduct=3886#It is the Trunigy TR 35-36C 1100kv Brushless Outrunner (Eq: AXi 2814

With the float weight would this be a good choice? If not what else other than E fight's?
Thanks