Sig Sealane.... New to float planes
 

Hey all,

Im looking to build and fly my first float plane and really like the looks of the Sig Sealane. I am pretty sure I am going to get this kit for christmas and dont think it will take me long to build at all after watching the build video that a guy posted on youtube. I am not planning on building it with the landing gear as it will be a water only plane.
My questions are....
1. Has anyone here flown their sealane off snow before? If so how well did it work??

2. Any other building tips for this plane besides adding a hatch to get to the fuel tank easier?

3. can you share your pics of your sealanes with me? I would like to see different trim scemes you all used!

Thanks
Jon

Well if no one else is going to give you an answer I'll try.I started one but never finished it. I did add a hatch to get to the fuel tank. I'd have to look but most likely I put the throttle servo behind the tank and ran a lead down the pylon to come out under the wing. I have flown float planes off of snow years ago. It was easier than water so I think the Sealane would do fine. Snow can be really hard on plastic covering so I'd consider glassing the bottom if that were in the Sealanes future.

Build it with spray-rails/ chines, starting from the step and ALL the way to the nose. The plane sits low in the water, build as light as possible, I used an OS.46 and built according to plans, sits low in water. Once in the air it flies well, no bad traits.

The previous post is correct. Spray rails and keep it light. The plane is basically a waterborne primary trainer. Flat-bottom airfoil and larger stab gives it remarkable slow speed capabilities. Mine has a Thunder Tiger Pro .36. It would fly fine on a glow .25. I didn't build in a hatch which means that I'll have to do surgery if the tank ever needs to be replaced. For my color scheme, I used white as a base color and orange panels for trim. Kinda like a Coast Guard scheme. Very easy to see.

thanks guys!!! what are your thoughts on fiberglassing the bottom and sides before covering and or just painting the glass?

I fiberglassed the bottom and then monokoted everything.

I fly my seaplanes (and float planes)off of snow but only when the snow is new , packed ,or has not iced over. When it gets very hard and or ice covered the seaplanes (and float planes)stay home and the ski planes come out. The hard/icy snow is rough on the hull and rudder.
All of my seaplanes (and floats for that matter) are glassed on the bottoms and slightly up the sides before paint or covering is applied.

With the cutouts in the sides you can't glass the whole fuselage, or I would have. I wish they had done the sides in balsa not light ply. You might want to consider brushing a coat of balsa rite or dope on all the light ply once you have the fuselage built. I am told it turns to cardboard once it gets wet.

Personally I wouldn't fiberglass the bottom, you want to keep it light. On the V-bottom I add a third strip of monocoat over the seam, have never had a problem, then again I'm not ZOOMING the plane on to the beach.

You'll need noseweight, so fiberglass the bottom front if you want it to be a little more durable.

I have one waiting in the box too. I have been flying both float planes and a copy of an Ace Seamaster for the the last couple of years and have learned the following.

Water gets into EVERY THING and gets ALL of the balsa wet. Nomatter how well you think you sealed all the iron on covering. I plan to completely dope/ seal all of the INSIDE of the Sealane before I cover it.

Consider 1/64th or thinner ply on the bottom of the hull instead of fiberglass. Gives a much smoother surface to work with.

I lost the Seamaster on a full stall landing in water when the 'smak' against the waves punched through the flat section of the hull aft of the step. Weird to see your plane sink up to the wing root as it taxis up to the beach.

Good luck on the build

Update!!
I have the fuse totally built and the tail sections done... on to building the wings next... I still have to add the chines to the fuse. If you guys have pics of the chines or an example that would help greatly! I have a brand new OS LA .46 im going to mount up top for power. so far the part that took the most work was the balsa block nose and getting that to shape correctly. I found that a palm power sander with 100 grit paper worked nicely then finish sanded with 220 grit. I am not however, looking forward to the big balsa block behind the fuel tank.... what are some methods you guys have used to shape these the best/easiest?
will add pics later
thanks
Jon