Anderson Kingfisher
 

I have just started to build a 108" span Kingfisher from the Denis Tapsfield drawings, I am going to power it with an OS120 4-stroke engine. I can't see how the cooling air exits the pylon mounting, I guess it needs a big hole cutting in the rear. Has anybody out there built one? How should I cover the hull to make sure it's watertight? Any other tips??[&o]

RE: Anderson Kingfisher
 

The february issue of RCModeler 1990, include a 10 page construction article by Dennis Tapsfield.
If you like, I could send a copy
/Leo

RE: Anderson Kingfisher
 

Thanks, Leo, I already have the magazine, but there does not appear to be any cooling air outlet for the engine, in the photos.

RE: Anderson Kingfisher
 

I would be very much interested in knowing how this project somes along for you. I have just ordered the plans and am getting ready to startt his project also!

RE: Anderson Kingfisher
 

The Kingfisher project is coming along very well. I started just 5 weeks ago, and it is now nearly ready for covering, except for a lot of minor details. I happen to be a very fast builder, though, and I think the average builder would take much longer to get this far! The plan is OK for the main construction, but lacking in detail for many parts, and some of the details such as wing securing pins are not so good.
I have designed and made air-operated retracting wheels, which work very well. Also, the wings have plug and socket connexions for the aileron servos and nav. lights, to eliminate the job of plugging-in wiring at the lake. Wings are secured by elastic band/keyhole slots. Trickiest job is fitting struts. I can send you some construction photos and more detailed info. if you wish - my address is:- [email protected]

RE: Anderson Kingfisher
 

Kevin...

How did you set the wing diahedral ??

I have half of wing build, and am starting other. Setting diahedral I have not solved.

Any construction feedback or counsel would be great.

What are you covering with ??

Dave Hiscock
St. John's, Newfoundland

RE: Anderson Kingfisher
 

Setting wing dihedral is easy. Put 1-1/4" block under wing tip and make the first (1/8" ply) rib vertical to building board, with a rightangled square. fit the joiner tubes horizontal to board, you will need to use a round file on the ribs 2 & 3 to get the tubes horizontal (use a long bar inside the tubes for accuracy) But DO NOT epoxy the tubes in yet! When you have made the centre section, complete with tubes, put it on the board weighted down (housebrick is good!). Then line up the two wings, fit the tubes and joining rods,and when all is square and looking good, epoxy the wing tubes in. Fit loose liteply doublers to tubes when assembling, then finally epoxy the doublers to the ribs - job done!!

RE: Anderson Kingfisher
 

Hey Kevin, you had asked in your original post about where/how the hot air is to exit the engine cowl, have you as yet seen it on the plan?....the plan shows on a front view of the engine cowl to the right side bottom of the cowl (left side of plan view) identifies that there should be a cooling air hole in this location, I assume that this is with the engine cylinder on this side.
I am just now in the process of beginning construction of my own Kingfisher. I have purchased a Sig 104ins Cub wing kit and have acquired a copy of the Cub wing plans and plan on using these to actually construct the wings with some modifications. I did note that the Sig Cub only uses Five (5) 1/4 in spruce spars while the Kingfisher uses Seven (7) so I am planning on changing the Sig ribs to 7 spars.
Information you can use or discard as you wish, I have been asking around for a while about what glue should I use on the fuse of the Kingfisher and the essence of what I have been recommended is to use Epoxy and Titebond III. If you have not yet completed your fuse and would like to consider the Titebond III glue, check out the technical info on the Titebond site, though I have received recommendations directly from their technical department to use this for this application (detailed info given to them previously).
I would be interested on your design related to the rotating undercarriage as I have thought that I would like to incorporate something of this type in my own fuse.

RE: Anderson Kingfisher
 

Hi, Sackie,
Thanks for the info. on the cooling air outlet - I just hadn't noticed it on the plan - doh......
Sounds a good idea to buy the Sig wing kit, it will save a bit of work cutting out all the ribs! I used mainly epoxy and cyano on the fuz. which I intend to skin completely in 1/16 balsa, and glass it all over with lightweight glass cloth for watertightness. Wings & tail profilmed. Wheel retracts very simple: an air cyl. on each, cyl. fitted (and pivoted) to the lower part of the ply former 2-1/2" behind step position. Instead of the square tube on plan, I fitted a short ali. round tube and made a brass rod to go through. Then make a brass arm to fit this rod, attached to rod with an Allen bolt, with a ball link to attach the operating rod to. With a bit of trial and error, wheels can be made to retract to the right place. The wheels down position is slightly back from the vertical: I fitted stops on the outsde to make sure the wheels lock up or down, in the right place. A photo would make it clear, but I don't seem to be able to get one onto this site! Good luck with the build, there seem to be a few Kingfishers under construction around the world!

RE: Anderson Kingfisher
 

Hi again Kevin, thanks for posting the photos, your setup looks truly simple, though I would be concerned if I was going to attempt landing on that setup (looks small in pics), though I believe the geometry you have used with the full down stop position would more than work. Do you think that the wire you are using for the axle is strong enough for an aircraft of this weight if using this for take off and landing, on a grass field?...I am just thinking that if I do go to create a masterpiece such as yours that I may wish to consider at least once flying the plane off a grass field. How did you fix the axle wire into the brass rod and are you sure that the brass rod will not bend on a landing?...I think if I am going to use a setup like yours I would prefer to use both axle and cross rod in a hardened steel rod and I suppose I will have to get a welder to ensure that this will not come lose in any way.
I have never even held pneumatic retract cylinders in my hands so what type/manufacture have you used and what size?...and did you strengthen any other areas where the cyliners are mounted or where the rotating portion of the axle exists in the fuse?...

RE: Anderson Kingfisher
 

Hello, Sackie, - The wire I used is 6 SWG piano wire and is soldered into the 5/16" brass rod, with this set-up I can easily alter the length of the leg (may need to be a bit shorter). The wire may be a little weak for grass field landings (especially my kind of landings!) but I don't intend to operate off the land - just taxi in and out of the water. Landings on the ground could be risky as the wheel track is so narrow, and the tip floats could easily get torn off.
The cylinders are home-made, originally for a Spitfire some years ago, so I was glad I kept the bits after the Spit. self-destructed. The cyl. diameter is 3/4" and travel about 1-5/8". You could probably get them from Robart, or another manufacturer like Unitracts International in the UK will make them to your spec.
The cyl. mounting points are not strengthened as they are bolted onto the 1/4" ply former. and the end stops on the wheel legs will take any shock loading. The point where the axle tube enters the fuz. is well strengthened on the inside of the fuz. The brass operating arms are attached to the rod by Allen grubscrews, positioned in such a way that they can be tightened/loosened by a very long-handled Allen key when the centre-section is removed, allowing the whole system to be easily removed for maintenance (or repairs!) from the finished model. Can supply you with details of how to make the cyls. if you require them - not difficult if you have a small lathe.

RE: Anderson Kingfisher
 

Hi everyone,

As Kevin mentioned in his previous post, there are a few Kingfishers under construction around the world at the moment. I'm in Tauranga, New Zealand, and I've just started on my Kingfisher, from the Dennis Tapsfield plans.

I've been modelling for 15 years or so, and reallly enjoy scale modelling. I've built quite a few kitsets, but the Kingfisher is going to be my very first build from plans. I'm a real Piper Cub fan, and when I saw a picture of a Kingfisher in an RCM mag[img][/img], those wings just did it for me, and I had to build one!

I'm planning on keeping things pretty much to the plan, and will be going with a woven-type covering (as opposed to plastic) and paint on top of that.

For power I was thinking of using one of the new YS 1.10 engines. It's lighter and more powerful than the OS 120, so I thought it would be a good start. I'm waiting to hear how Kevin gets on with the flying of his model using the OS 120.

Anyway so far I've cut the 18 wing ribs, using the sandwich method. I made the two rib templates from 1/4 inch ply and bolted all 18 rib sheets together at once. I rough sanded the whole block down on my disc sander, and then finished it by hand using a GP Bar Sander. While everything was still bolted together I used a Permagrit spar slotter to cut the spar slots - and what an awsome tool the spar slotter is! I ended up with perfect 1/4 inch spar slots in no time! I then split them into three packs of six ribs and filed out the inner 1/4 inch spar holes with a square needle file. I've attached a pic for those who have never used this method before (it was my first time too!).

In the process of getting my construction underway, Kevin very kindly sent me a scan of the original construction article in the magazine. I've converted the pages into a black & white PDF file, which is about 2 meg. If anyone would like to see the article just drop a post here with your email address and I'll email it through. As they say, a picture is worth 1000 words.

Well that's my lot for tonight. Hopefully I'll make some more progress over the next few days.

Pete.

RE: Anderson Kingfisher
 

Dear Pete
The Anderson bug has bitten me too! I hv got hold of the plans and now getting my thots and ideas together fr this project. I would appreciate if you could email ([email protected]) me a copy of the original article by Dennis Tapfield. That would be super!
I assume you are already finished with the construction of yr plane. If you would like to share yr thoughts and pics if any that would be of great help here.
Looking forward to hear from you.
Best regards
RD

RE: Anderson Kingfisher
 

Nice to see something on the Kingfisher. Over the past two years I also have been building one.
I have sovered the fuse with .75 oz cloth and resin. I plan on using a Saito 150 for power.
Hope to have this finished this summer.
;)Lorne

RE: Anderson Kingfisher
 

Pete, could you send me a copy of Kevin's magazine build article which you've PDF'd

thanks Tim

[email protected]

RE: Anderson Kingfisher
 

As an update on my Kingfisher's performance, I found the OS120 engine was not powerful enough for water takeoffs; this may be because my model is a little heavier than others may be, due to the retracting wheels and glassclothed finish on the fuz. I replaced the engine with a Moki 180 driving a 3-blade 17" x 10" carbon prop. This combination is perfect, giving 1/2" clearance between the prop tips and the decking.
The CG. position does not seem to be critical: I removed the initial 1/4 lb. of lead from the nose (slid up the square central tube) with an improvement in performance and no change in trim settings.
I have successfully taxied down a ramp into the water, and out again after the flight, which was very satisfying!
I would advise that the foredeck be very well fuelproofed if painted, and straight (no nitro) fuel is used. I spoiled the nice paintwork on my first flights, due to fuel dripping down from the engine.
The water rudder needs to be of tough material (epoxy sheet) and very strong springs fitted, otherwise it will bend, or flip up when landing. At the moment I am trying to devise an up/down movement operated by servo. (The water rudder proved to be essential in breezy conditions)
Takeoffs are beautiful, long and totally scale-like. Last week I looped and rolled the model with no problems ( but this is hardly scale flying!) I have not yet dared to try spinning it......

RE: Anderson Kingfisher
 

Pictures we need pictures;)

RE: Anderson Kingfisher
 

Sorry, NFO, I am having problems uploading pics. on this Forum, but I have a few photos in my profile Gallery.(also some pics. on the thread started by "bekind")

RE: Anderson Kingfisher
 

I know this post is a little bit old but I have the plans for the 1/4 scale Anderson Kingfisher and I am looking for any and all info on the plane. I have read some blogs that there was an Ausie company making kits for the 1/4 and 1/3. Anybody know if any of these kits are still around. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Wild Bill

RE: Anderson Kingfisher
 

hi, Bill,

You really don't need a kit to build this plane - just the plans and a stack of wood!

RE: Anderson Kingfisher
 

Jerry Nelson of Nelson Hobbies has plans for a quarter scale Kingfisher that is more scale than Dennis' plane. Jerry uses some standard aircraft parts for the engine mount and retracts also. For a 120 to fly this plane I would think you would have to eliminate the fiberglass and shrink wrap it.

RE: Anderson Kingfisher
 

Hey Bill,
I have just finished my KF. Many thanks to Kevin R. I have a post in "seaplanes" [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2341739/anchors_8201618/mpage_15/key_/anchor/tm.htm#8201618]Anderson Kingfisher[/link]. I have an old Pilot Report on the KF that was helpful during the build. (see below)

Chip, Knowing that the tail had to be kept light, I was very careful to use the lightest materials I had for the rear of the plane. I used .75oz glass and epoxy resin on the entire fuse and still managed to keep it under 16.5 lbs. It can be done.

Don

RE: Anderson Kingfisher
 

Pictures I can help with.
Here are two photos of Kevin's Kingfisher in 2004 with the 120FS.

RE: Anderson Kingfisher
 

And here are 3 more, taken on a very dull day (unfortunately) at Loch Insh.
This was in 2007, with the Moki and 3 blade prop.

RE: Anderson Kingfisher
 

I am building the kingfisher and need the RCM construction article. Can anyone help me with a copy? Thanks, fuzzy