I have never flown anything with retracts, but I have heard horror stories of planes that collapse on taxi, nose over on landing, and need to be flown inverted to get gear to retract. [] The retracts would also add weight, and on a warbird, which are the most common planes with retracts, makes them quite heavy, and I'v heard hard to fly. I want a sunday sport plane with retracts. I was thinkin mechanical retracts, because it is less complicated (thats what I'v been told). I don't want to end up with a plane that is over loaded, barely flys below 3/4 throttle, and has to land at 70mph. I've heard of planes like this. Thats NOT what I want! Anybody have suggestions? I don't want to hassle with pnumatic's ....tank..lines..pressure valves exc. This doesent sound like any fun at all. I just want simple easy to use retracts, that will work.
Does anyone have suggestion on a plane, servo type, retract type exc? I've looked at a nobler from top flite, or something like an ultra sport, tracer from greatplanes. Something along those lines. What do you suggest? Is there a such thing as easy retracts? Or should I not bother..I fly off of grass, it that makes a difference.

Mechanical retracts led to the early re-kitting of my Ultra Sport 40+. A day at the field is for flying not messing around with retract linkages etc. Unlewss you need to use them for scale appearance save yourself some grief and go with fixed gear!

Have had mechanical ones in a EZ Zero for six or seven yrs with no problems other than bending the legs back after a few less than perfect landings.

How about the World Model's Rambler 45? I've heard it's a great sport plane, with retracts installed.

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Is there a such thing as easy retracts? Or should I not bother..I fly off of grass, it that makes a difference.
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For any model from .75 or less, mechanical retracts work fine. Use a good 180* servo and you will have good retracts. If you use the lesser expensive types, be certain the metal mount side is parallel to the wing span or the plastic parts will crush. They are not stressed for the load that they get when they are placed with the chord line.

Beef up the mount and all areas around the mounting area. Tie each part to something else.

For bigger machines, pneumatics are the way to go. The current day's valves and such work very well with little problems. Build all the tanks, switches etc into the wing for a taildragger and the only thing to plug in is the servo lead.
If your system has one of those rather small alum. air tanks, use TWO tanks or more.

Have only used Mechanical Retracts on all my Pattern planes for years without any problems. As stated, build the gear plates well and connected to other parts of the wing. Use titanium struts if you can find them. BVM used to sell them but were too short for a 17" prop. Also, use a good quality retract(hard to find now-a-days)

Have used Pnuematics on my Regal Eagle. Have had problems with the valve leaking. You also have to air them up before each flight. Still require a servo, although most use a mini servo. The pump will cost a little bit, can't remember off hand but it was considerable more than I thought it was worth, IMO.

It is cool to take off and still be 5' high and retract the gear. A little extra weight but not that much if you like the look.

ed

I have mechanical retracts in my cloud dancer 60 with no trouble. Extra weight is minimal, one servo and two retract legs that dont weigh that much. It really looks cool with the wheels up I personally think they are worth it.

They are worth it on many planes, but most of my planes have fixed gear now days. I usually keep at least one plane in the hangar with retracts.

The ones I use were designed and machined by myself back when I did CAD-CAM work for the Gov't (Your tax dollars at work ) I haven't found anything on the market as good (and sorry, all of the sets I have are spoken for), but here are a few tip I would suggest.

1) Avoid using them for Trike gear. Main wheels are a big enough hassle without having to deal with a steerable nose gear.

2) Buy the sturdiest ones you can find. Make sure that they have at least a 3/16" gear wire, and try to find one that you can drill out to accept up to a 1/4" gear wire just in case.

3) Use the smallest wheel possible (Easy if your runway is paved, no so easy if you fly from grass), and make your wheel wells as big as possible. Try to get at least 1/4" of clearance all around the wheel. Take offs and landings will bend the gear back so you need room to keep them from sticking in the wheel wells.

4) Check them after each flight and straighten them if necessary to prevent them from getting stuck in the wheel wells on the next flight.

They are definately extra work, and I wouldn't want them on every plane, but they DOOOO look SWEET!

Minn flyers points are great as usuall. Retracts are really cool. My sportster is quite a bit faster with retracts. As stated, use small wheels. I like my old kraft electric retracts the best. Been using them 16 years and never had a failure of any kind with them. I have used air, and mechanical as well. If you take your time with them and make sure they are set up right, they are great. Get impatient, and you can have a lot of problems with them.

Other than e-bay, is there anywhere or anybody that still make electric retracts?

Made a set for a 106" span FW 190D9 using electric screwdrivers driving screwjacks.

I haven't seen any commercial electrics for a long time. Too bad. They work nice, but are kind of bulky.

Put an ad in the wanted forum for a set maybe.

I found a brand new set at a swap meet last year and got them for $10. Unfortunately they don't have the amp and they don't work with out them, so they are spares for the amp I have.