Well...

I just got my mt2 ss a couple hours ago and before i go building is there anything that i need to know before hand that i can fix in the building process for example diffs, slipper clutch, drivetrian, etc...
By the way im not gonna use the kit engines... I bought a OS .18cv-rx so that i can have total power from then start
I also got some hop-ups:

ofna linkage
yokohama tires
diff springs
hump pack
temp guage
fuel filter
motor saver filter
real 30wt shock oil
associated pipe
any info or help will really be appreciated

thanks.

what you doin w/ the stock engine? i would love to have it

did you even get a radio?
i dont have one myself but you should go to the mt2 forum for help

and do something a bout those unsealed diffs

Team A:

Get aluminum front steering knuckles or melt a nut into the plastic one. Someone on the MT2 thread showed how to do it - it was pretty slick.

Gran

and alum. rear knuckles. and the manual will tell u to put 2 shims for the dif. but put 6 shims on. 2 is no where near enough.

and when ur buildin it make sure u dont loose any parts like e clips or small nuts and bolts. cuz they skimp u hard. they give u no spare parts in the kit.

how is a fuel filter, air filter, and temp guage considered a "hop-up?" lol

Its like what my license plate frame says on my car: "Yes, the stripes DO make it faster" hehe

Yoster..

LOL

I agree with everything you said except the air filter. Why on this planet anyone would call that "thing" an air filter is beyond me. Maybe an Air Restrictor would be a better term, or automatic dirty choke.


Anty

kingtuts

you put 6 shims where?
inside the diff? or onthe the big gears?
i only got one extra

thanks.

You put the shims between the bevel gear and its bearing. You need to take the evil-clip off the shaft in which the bevel gear is on and slide it out, then put the shims on top of the bearing. Or, you can get the actual bearing out and use bigger shims to boost the bearing up a bit. I did it the first way I mentioned because the shims I had could only fit there and I didn't want to put them behind the bearing because I was too lazy to get it out. Anty did it this way as well (I think...), and I haven't had a problem with it yet and I don't think he has either.

hey what are you doiong with that 18ss engine would you be willing to sell it

i asked fisrt dont take my engine, lol

I already sold it...
Can any of you tell me whats the max temp your engine shoud get to?

Is it ok to use the shims that come with the kit and use then as the manual says?

yea but ull have to put more shims in later on. i went through about a gallon of fuel before i had to put more shims in. so ull be fine for now with what the manual says.

What will happen after a gallon?
will they strip?

Where do i put the shim after one gallon?

thanks.

they could strip if left like that for an amount of time. mine dident strip it started rounding the gears off cuz the mesh was way to loose. i added about 4 shims when it started slippin. the shims go like jamxx said. under the bearing on the big gear. ull see when assemblin it

dont you pu tany on the gear that meshes with the big one?
it seams pretty loose
isnt 6 too much?
where can i get the shims? tower doesnt have them

thanks.

You won't be able to fit 6 shims in the diff during initial assembly. The gear mesh will get loose after you run it enough (happened after second gallon 4 me). The rear diff will skip once that happens. At that point, you'll need the extra shims to get the mesh back into spec.

U could use any shims available at your LHS (as long as they're the right size). Here's a pic of the shims I used (non HPI specific):

i didnt see anybody else answer, so i will...
max SAFE temp is around 290 for most engines. my OS's have been COOKED a FEW times, and they still run like a good swatch.

Very nice setup, I did the same thing when I bought my MT2 18SS the first thing I did was open the box and take pictures of the engine and put it up on Ebay. I got $140 for it and I had the O.S. 18CV-R already. This engine makes the truck FLY.

There is no perfect amount of shims each one is different, the best way to shim the gears is put the diffs together and leave the E-clip off the Differential Shaft on the gear side of the diff unit so the can slid it in and out without taking apart the whole unit. You will have to buy additional [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGPA7&P=7]shims[/link] before you can continue because they do not provide enough in the kit for both diff units.

Once you have everything you need put everything together but only use 2 screws instead of the 4 to install the gear to the diff case (you will be taking it apart again to put the e-clip back when you are done shimming and you do not need to put all 4 screws in to do this) and then shim it accordingly. Make sure the there is very little play with the gear when you are done.

Or if you really want to go crazy and have no money limit get the [link=http://gpmracing.com.hk/car/page/pop_mt2_2.asp]Aluminum Diff cases[/link] and you will have a bulletproof diff gear setup that needs minimal shimming to get it working properly. There is no flex with the aluminum case that you get with the plastic case, and this will not let the gears jump any teeth which cause it to strip later on.

The only other mod I recommend is get the [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVZ43&P=7]Aluminum Front Knuckles [/link] and trash the stock plastic ones. They will pay for themselves on your first hard run though the park or first crash. Melting a nut to the plastic knuckles is a good temp fix but it weakens the plastic and they will break instead of flexing when you hit something.