Cooling head recommendations
#3
ORIGINAL: meatloaf
Can a anybody recommend a good cooling head for the 2.5 Rustler? Thanks
Can a anybody recommend a good cooling head for the 2.5 Rustler? Thanks

Ya dude,
You might want to have a look at the golden horizon line . i run with one and like it very muc http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXEMN8&P=0h
#5
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From: Yorktown,
VA
ORIGINAL: meatloaf
Thanks for a REAL answer. The first reply must have been from a 2 year old.
Thanks for a REAL answer. The first reply must have been from a 2 year old.
Wahhhh, don't turn a jovial post into flamebait, crybaby.
=]
PS: Welcome.
#6
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From: Norwood,
OH
meatloaf:
my point was, that unless you just want the bling factor, a cooling head isn't gonna do much on any engine unless it's been substantially reworked.
just for the record, i'm 12x the age you assumed
2 year olds dont have my dry quick wit
my point was, that unless you just want the bling factor, a cooling head isn't gonna do much on any engine unless it's been substantially reworked.
just for the record, i'm 12x the age you assumed
2 year olds dont have my dry quick wit
#7
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From: Yorktown,
VA
I'm cross-drilling my head and adding liquid cooling and a no-crap radiator from my 300ZX. Then I'll take the turbo and intercooler and turbo from my SRT and plop it on as well.
#9
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From: Syracuse,
UT
ORIGINAL: khlept0
I'm cross-drilling my head and adding liquid cooling and a no-crap radiator from my 300ZX. Then I'll take the turbo and intercooler and turbo from my SRT and plop it on as well.
I'm cross-drilling my head and adding liquid cooling and a no-crap radiator from my 300ZX. Then I'll take the turbo and intercooler and turbo from my SRT and plop it on as well.
And what forget the NOS? How dare you
#10
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From: Yorktown,
VA
ORIGINAL: ThunderbirdJunkie
that's a Traxxas SRT right
(yes, i know what an SRT is, dont bother)
I like my cross-drilled brake lines, personally.
that's a Traxxas SRT right

(yes, i know what an SRT is, dont bother)
I like my cross-drilled brake lines, personally.
I'm sure they're not your brake lines that are now cross-drilled. Perhaps the dickhead who cut you off earlier.
#11
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From: Norwood,
OH
www.kalecoauto.com
seriously, i know what i'm talking about, click the link and you'll get it.
GEEZ man, this guy complains about somebody taking my jestful post out of context, and then does the same himself.
seriously, i know what i'm talking about, click the link and you'll get it.
GEEZ man, this guy complains about somebody taking my jestful post out of context, and then does the same himself.
#15
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From: ovideo,
FL
ORIGINAL: monsterpede360
hey man my brother needs a new cooling head. This is the right thread for his problem.
hey man my brother needs a new cooling head. This is the right thread for his problem.
if its not a 2.5 then no its not the right thread
#16
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From: Butler,
PA
I have to second on the golden horizons head, but then again I wouldn't change it unless you have ruined your stock head. I cross threaded my plug on my stock head and all the LHS had was the GH head, I've been very happy with it, plus it has a removable button so the next time I cross thread a plug all I need is a new button instead of a whole new head
#17
I have to second the stock head. For the exact same reason.
An aftermarket head can accually kill your engine. If the head cools too much, the piston sleeve will not expand to proper size and will cause premature wear on the engine. I would rather run my engine at 270f than 180f (assuming it is still lubricated).
I got a hardcore racing head a long time ago, and now I have a peice of $40 aluminum that I only use for pictures.
An aftermarket head can accually kill your engine. If the head cools too much, the piston sleeve will not expand to proper size and will cause premature wear on the engine. I would rather run my engine at 270f than 180f (assuming it is still lubricated).
I got a hardcore racing head a long time ago, and now I have a peice of $40 aluminum that I only use for pictures.
#18
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From: Butler,
PA
ORIGINAL: Skullbasher
I have to second the stock head. For the exact same reason.
An aftermarket head can accually kill your engine. If the head cools too much, the piston sleeve will not expand to proper size and will cause premature wear on the engine. I would rather run my engine at 270f than 180f (assuming it is still lubricated).
I got a hardcore racing head a long time ago, and now I have a peice of $40 aluminum that I only use for pictures.
I have to second the stock head. For the exact same reason.
An aftermarket head can accually kill your engine. If the head cools too much, the piston sleeve will not expand to proper size and will cause premature wear on the engine. I would rather run my engine at 270f than 180f (assuming it is still lubricated).
I got a hardcore racing head a long time ago, and now I have a peice of $40 aluminum that I only use for pictures.
#19
ORIGINAL: tommythecat
The is why I reccomend the GH head, it is very slightly better, meaning that it doesn't overcool. 7 gallons through my still strong trx 2.5 is proof enough to me. I found it seemed to lower my temps about 20 degrees on average. However, I am talking about in warmer weather. I did pick up a new stock head to use during the winter, and I actually wrap it in foil and a sock. But for running in normal 50-100 degree weather the GH head is awesome.
ORIGINAL: Skullbasher
I have to second the stock head. For the exact same reason.
An aftermarket head can accually kill your engine. If the head cools too much, the piston sleeve will not expand to proper size and will cause premature wear on the engine. I would rather run my engine at 270f than 180f (assuming it is still lubricated).
I got a hardcore racing head a long time ago, and now I have a peice of $40 aluminum that I only use for pictures.
I have to second the stock head. For the exact same reason.
An aftermarket head can accually kill your engine. If the head cools too much, the piston sleeve will not expand to proper size and will cause premature wear on the engine. I would rather run my engine at 270f than 180f (assuming it is still lubricated).
I got a hardcore racing head a long time ago, and now I have a peice of $40 aluminum that I only use for pictures.
#20
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From: Butler,
PA
I agree, but with a proper tune my trx 2.5 seems to peak at around 290 when running in grass, and usually runs 240ish under normal dirt and pavement driving, so a 20 degree drop doesn't drop you into the sub 200 (too cool for proper expansion) range. Although, that being said there is really nothing wrong with peaking at 290 as long as the high temps are due to climate and running conditions and not lack of internal lubrication. I think we are basically on the same page. Your just emphasizing the point that using a bigger head to cool an engine that is running hot due to a lean condition will only mask the problem and allow the p/s to clearance prematurely regardless of in-range temps. I guess the point is that you shouldn't use a larger head to try to fix an overheating problem, as doing so will only hide the problem and not actually correct it. If you buy an aftermarket head it is important to do so knowing that fact or else you will wonder why your engine is shot after 1 gallon even though you never saw it overheat. Personally the only reason I bought the head was because I stripped my stocker and the GH was the smallest aftermarket head they had at my LHS. The only reason I leave it on is because it looks a bit nicer and seems to stand up better to having the truck skid on it when I flip over occasionally compared to the stock head which tends to snap and chip when you mess up and end up riding on it. Like I said, I do still have an extra stock head that always goes on when I'm running in cold conditions. Running cold is just as bad if not worse than running hot because of running lean.
#21

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Here is a spiffy one: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXETE3&P=0h
*Warranty void if tool breaks for any reason whatsoever.
*Warranty void if tool breaks for any reason whatsoever.



