I keep breaking the factory team carbon fiber rear shock tower. Clean in half right at the top bulkhead screws. Broke 2 so far, both with the body on. Is there anything out there that'll take the abuse and not break??

Are you landing on your wheels? Shock towers usually break cause the shocks are set to not allow any dampening...a ST needs to bottom out on jumps or else it transfers the stress to the easiest place to break..usually shock towers....if your st doesn't hit the chassis on jumps your setup is wrong and no matter what shock tower you run you'll continue to break something...add a aluminum shock tower and you'll break the shocks or control arms off...it's all a matter of setup...try running a way softer shock setup let that chassis hit the ground it's why it's there...there was someone here who owned a Jato and broke shock towers like mad he was proud to say though that his Jato never bottomed out....but too stupid to realise his setup was breaking his shock towers not anything else.

I heard that you could glue 2 of them together and make it stronger. I think it was in a mag when they were bullet proofing xxx-nt and rc10gt for skatepark play, and I don't remember if that tip was for the rc10, but I think it would work. I run the tub chassis, so I don't know what is different on yours.

i've heard the same from the sponsered guy who works at my lhs. for the rc10gt, he said the strongest setup he's ever used was 2 factory team carbon fiber jonts glued together.
however, BADZ is right. your shock tower can be depleted uranium for all your truck cares. if not allowed to bottom-out, you're gonna break somethin'.

I have titanium shocktowers...

2 years and still going!

It's bottoming out when it lands off of jumps, but its when it lands on its lid that they snap like toothpicks. My first CF tower lasted me almost a year and i think it took more of a beating than the one i just broke, which lasted about 2 months. I run the setup in my sig with masher 2k's on RPM rims.

It's the masher's causing your problems...I tried running them on my Jato...sure they look great but cause alot of suspension stress and things break cause of their size and weight....as far as landing on your lid and break things....don't land on your lid and it won't break...thats just part of rc life...land wrong they break nothing can be done about that

yeah, what are you thinking landing on the lid? lol -seriously, trie the 2 glued.

What if i try the 2 fiberglass towers glued?? those CF towers get expensive after a while

it'll still be better than one. and i think the rigidity (as opposed to sheer strength) is what will help, so cf or not, 2 towers would stiffen things up and keep them from bending. if they don't bend, they can't break (even the fiberglass).

just get titanium ones, thats what I did and they are fine after all the abuse i put my truck through.

Those titanium towers are pretty pricey. How are the trinity towers?? I can get the front and rear towers for $24 for both. Would those be anywhere near as strong as the Ti towers??

Well lets see here. We have you breaking shock towers left and right. Yes they are pricey, but im not the one complaining about MY shock towers breaking...See what I mean? Besides, nothing wrong with spending a little extra for your truck now and then.

Also, make sure you use the RPM rear bulkhead with these, works great.

Just ordered the trinity towers for my truck. I figure $25 for both front AND rear, cant go wrong there. We'll see how they hold up when i get them.


Is it OK to use the RRP diff gear with the stock idler and topshaft??? I just melted my diff and was wondering if i should keep the stock piece or go Aluminum.


Thanks

I would get all RRP gears. So you KNOW you dont have to worry about it.