im a beginner plaese help
#1
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From: Blackpool, UNITED KINGDOM
hi, i am new to nitro rc buggys so i was just wondering if anyone had any tips for me.
i also need help tuning the buggy so i get fast acceleration and i am able to get the max speed out of it.
i have a hot bodies lightning 10.
thanks
i also need help tuning the buggy so i get fast acceleration and i am able to get the max speed out of it.
i have a hot bodies lightning 10.
thanks
#2
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From: adelaide, AUSTRALIA
the best way to find help for tuning over the net is to google nitro car tuning, and when you find a good simple giude print it out and keep it in your tool box so you do some tuning out on the field.

hope this helps......


hope this helps......
#3
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From: Toronto,
ON, CANADA
Here, do this:
This is a great tuning method which is both accurate and easy. We are going to start by tuning the High Speed Needle (HSN). First off start the engine. Let it warm up while idling for a few seconds and give it a blip of throttle. If it bogs down and chokes with fuel, it is too rich so lean it out about 1/8th of a turn and try again. Continue this until it is set crisp and responsive. If the first time you blipped the throttle it sounded like it wasn’t getting enough fuel, then it is too lean and you will need to richen it up 1/8th of a turn and try again. Continue tuning accordingly until you get an engine which sounds clear, crisp and responsive. When the engine reaches this stage start driving it around a bit until the car is up to temperature (About as hot as it is uncomfortably hot to touch). When it is up to temp drive it up a straight and fine tune the HSN from there. Do this by leaning the HSN if it sounds gargly and choking, and richening it if it sounds like it isn’t getting enough fuel and lean bogging. Tune in 1/8th of a turn increments
With the HSN properly set proceed to the LSN. We will use the pinch test and it is amazingly simple. Start the engine up or keep it running if you are continuing from the previous info. Run the car around the track or wherever your driving for about a minute until it gets up to temperature(About when its too hot to comfortably touch the engine head). When it is warmed up bring it in and keep it running. After you’ve brought it in let it idle for 10 seconds. If the LSN is set so badly that it won’t idle, bump up the idle speed or throttle adjust until it does. After it has idled for 10 seconds pinch the fuel line and continue to pinch it until the engine dies. If the RPM increases by several hundred the car is too rich, if it doesn’t increase at all and the car dies it is too lean, and if the RPM increases slightly and then the car dies that is the ideal setting. If the engine is too rich, lean it out 1/8th of a turn, start the car and try the process again. If it is too lean then richen it 1/8th of a turn, start the car up and try the process again tuning accordingly. When the engine reaches the ideal setting, continue on to the next stage.
After doing the pinch test, to get the engine specifically fine-tuned I use the punch-test method.
With the HSN set properly and the LSN set fairly accurately as above to get the rest of the performance available from your engine do this. Start the car up and drive it around the track that you run on or the place that you drive to warm it up. When the car is warmed up stop it at the start of the straight or an open stretch of land and let the car idle for 15 seconds. After this period of 15 seconds punch the car off with full throttle. Listen to the engine and the rate of acceleration as well as the amount of wheel-spin. Do this again and again until you are familiar with the sound and appearance of the car when you do this. When you punch the throttle, the car should rocket off the line, and if you are running off-road the car should have a fair amount of wheel-spin. When you are really familiar with the sound of the engine and rate of wheelspin, lean the LSN 1/8th of a turn and go back to the straight. Let the car idle for 15 seconds then punch it off the line with full throttle. The car should sound crisper, accelerate faster and have more wheelspin. Continue driving it to the straight, letting it idle, punching it off and leaning it out until the car starts to bog down, starve for fuel, hesitate and generally degrade in performance. When it reaches this stage richen it out 1/6th of a turn and this will be the ideal setting for the day. If you run on an open track or in a parking lot and your car is at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) for extended periods, richen it about another 1/8th of a turn to be on the safe side. Remember, this setting probably won’t be the ideal setting for your engine for the next day, and the carbie settings change with every temperature, barometric pressure and even humidity. So, if you want maximum power and performance from your engine it is a good idea to fine tune it every day you run.
-Cheers
This is a great tuning method which is both accurate and easy. We are going to start by tuning the High Speed Needle (HSN). First off start the engine. Let it warm up while idling for a few seconds and give it a blip of throttle. If it bogs down and chokes with fuel, it is too rich so lean it out about 1/8th of a turn and try again. Continue this until it is set crisp and responsive. If the first time you blipped the throttle it sounded like it wasn’t getting enough fuel, then it is too lean and you will need to richen it up 1/8th of a turn and try again. Continue tuning accordingly until you get an engine which sounds clear, crisp and responsive. When the engine reaches this stage start driving it around a bit until the car is up to temperature (About as hot as it is uncomfortably hot to touch). When it is up to temp drive it up a straight and fine tune the HSN from there. Do this by leaning the HSN if it sounds gargly and choking, and richening it if it sounds like it isn’t getting enough fuel and lean bogging. Tune in 1/8th of a turn increments
With the HSN properly set proceed to the LSN. We will use the pinch test and it is amazingly simple. Start the engine up or keep it running if you are continuing from the previous info. Run the car around the track or wherever your driving for about a minute until it gets up to temperature(About when its too hot to comfortably touch the engine head). When it is warmed up bring it in and keep it running. After you’ve brought it in let it idle for 10 seconds. If the LSN is set so badly that it won’t idle, bump up the idle speed or throttle adjust until it does. After it has idled for 10 seconds pinch the fuel line and continue to pinch it until the engine dies. If the RPM increases by several hundred the car is too rich, if it doesn’t increase at all and the car dies it is too lean, and if the RPM increases slightly and then the car dies that is the ideal setting. If the engine is too rich, lean it out 1/8th of a turn, start the car and try the process again. If it is too lean then richen it 1/8th of a turn, start the car up and try the process again tuning accordingly. When the engine reaches the ideal setting, continue on to the next stage.
After doing the pinch test, to get the engine specifically fine-tuned I use the punch-test method.
With the HSN set properly and the LSN set fairly accurately as above to get the rest of the performance available from your engine do this. Start the car up and drive it around the track that you run on or the place that you drive to warm it up. When the car is warmed up stop it at the start of the straight or an open stretch of land and let the car idle for 15 seconds. After this period of 15 seconds punch the car off with full throttle. Listen to the engine and the rate of acceleration as well as the amount of wheel-spin. Do this again and again until you are familiar with the sound and appearance of the car when you do this. When you punch the throttle, the car should rocket off the line, and if you are running off-road the car should have a fair amount of wheel-spin. When you are really familiar with the sound of the engine and rate of wheelspin, lean the LSN 1/8th of a turn and go back to the straight. Let the car idle for 15 seconds then punch it off the line with full throttle. The car should sound crisper, accelerate faster and have more wheelspin. Continue driving it to the straight, letting it idle, punching it off and leaning it out until the car starts to bog down, starve for fuel, hesitate and generally degrade in performance. When it reaches this stage richen it out 1/6th of a turn and this will be the ideal setting for the day. If you run on an open track or in a parking lot and your car is at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) for extended periods, richen it about another 1/8th of a turn to be on the safe side. Remember, this setting probably won’t be the ideal setting for your engine for the next day, and the carbie settings change with every temperature, barometric pressure and even humidity. So, if you want maximum power and performance from your engine it is a good idea to fine tune it every day you run.
-Cheers
#4
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From: Blackpool, UNITED KINGDOM
thanks for all the info it was a great help.
when the car is in idle and the wheels are on the floor, should it move or should it be completely still because mine is moveing at a fairly fast pace (about 5-10 mph)
cheers again.
when the car is in idle and the wheels are on the floor, should it move or should it be completely still because mine is moveing at a fairly fast pace (about 5-10 mph)
cheers again.
#6
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From: Blackpool, UNITED KINGDOM
hi again,
i just need to know the difference between a fuel that is 10% and one that is 25% and which would you reccomend for racing and jumping around?
luke
i just need to know the difference between a fuel that is 10% and one that is 25% and which would you reccomend for racing and jumping around?
luke
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From: Toronto,
ON, CANADA
I would recommend standard 20% nitro mix and ALWAYS 16% oil mix no less cuz that will decrease the engine life significantly. the more there is of nitro mix the more your engine will overheat which is not the best idea usually so in my opinion 20% is ideal... To answer lightning10's question, No, the idling does not have to be perfect since its pretty tough (especially if you have a cheap car) to have the clutch at almost no friction. So it should slowly turn but not at 5-10mph (assuming you are referring to your wheels) so try what CRTracer said and adjust the throttle trim and you should be fine, if your clutch is still turning even when the brakes are applied (barely) then you should try and take apart the clutch bell and see if perhaps its jammed or if you have plastic shoes, they melted. Cheeers
#9
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From: Blackpool, UNITED KINGDOM
cheers
at the moment i have two fuels, o'donnell 10% which was reccomended by my model shop and another fuel which is 16% by Elite Power, which seems to run with better performance. which would you reccomend?
at the moment i have two fuels, o'donnell 10% which was reccomended by my model shop and another fuel which is 16% by Elite Power, which seems to run with better performance. which would you reccomend?
#10
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ORIGINAL: New.World.Order
I would recommend standard 20% nitro mix and ALWAYS 16% oil mix no less cuz that will decrease the engine life significantly. the more there is of nitro mix the more your engine will overheat which is not the best idea usually so in my opinion 20% is ideal...
I would recommend standard 20% nitro mix and ALWAYS 16% oil mix no less cuz that will decrease the engine life significantly. the more there is of nitro mix the more your engine will overheat which is not the best idea usually so in my opinion 20% is ideal...
#11
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From: Blackpool, UNITED KINGDOM
also do you no any online shops that sell really good off road wheels and tyres and also delivers to the UK? i have used mine on road and they are completely smooth now.
luke
luke
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From: Wappingers Falls , NY
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