rcollector

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gnu1yjgp5-4&feature=youtu.be

I was trying for a scale appearance with this one not so much all out speed.

skater 80

It looks great, the scale look is right on the money!! can't wait to see more video's. Speed looks good so far, try a few different props 3 or 4 blade small diameter more pitch.

axel2

Sorry but the video is not viewable

cybercrxt

My Feedback: (3)

Cool, That is one of the boats I now have the molds too! The video doesn't seem to work, could you make it public so we can see how it runs? Thanks, Mike







First one out of the mold!

rcollector

Made it public. I don't know how it got set to private. Should work now I noticed you had those molds on international waters. I bought the boat years ago from performance international. Back then none of the outboards held up well and everyone was trying to build something that worked. This was before the MHZ outdrive was made or the g-moty leg , I think the lawless gas lower just came out.... I built two outboard legs myself one 1/4 cable but it did not work well with the 90 degree bend then I made one using a kenellos outdrive geared lower. I got it running ok but with the stock 260 it was under powered. I got this brushless motor on it now and it does pretty good. Looks very "scale" with the little K&B lower but he small lower breaks cables often. I don't use it much (mostly a shelf queen) so it's not a problem but I would like to try a dragon drive or something like the enigma leg but that looks less"scale".

rcollector

Some pictures of things I have tried

rcollector

one more

cybercrxt

My Feedback: (3)

Wow, you actually got a 7.5 size lower unit and cable to work! That is really cool. Sounds like I need to pursue doing an FE version myself. I am impressed with the speeds I am seeing. What size prop are you running, and what KV motor? I saw you were on 12s with the video link. More info and pics of your radio box setup would be great! Thanks, mike

rcollector

It is a Aquastar T-20 730KV on a hyperformance lower. The hyperformance cables brake almost instantly but softer genuine K&B's hold up a while. The castle speed control I am using has data logging so I can tell how many amps I'm pulling . Propped like it is it is not far from the systems limit but a slightly larger prop would probably give a little more speed. The video shown I was running an x450 prop. Anything larger and you snap flex cables too often. For reliability you should run a gas leg. I just like how scale the K&B makes it look. The reliable gas cable lowers made these days are too large and long to get that look. I will probably sometime pick up a arrowshark dragon geared lower. I'm just waiting to hear how well they are holding up for people before buying one

rcollector

Those Performance international outboards looked amazing. When I bought my boat the nearly $2000 price tag was too rich for me. Is there any chance of you producing them again? I think some were gear and some cable. I don't think any cable will hold the power of a gas motor long making the full 90 degree bend and gears have been a problem for all manufacturers also. I have a huge collection of international hobbies boats and a handfull of broken gears out of them them too. I have spare gears I found on ebay over the years but they were pricey. I have heard bad things about MHZ. Now I wonder if arrowsharks geared lower is the answer

cybercrxt

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks for the info on the hyperformance lower. I have used that lower, and most all the others in my record trials tunnel boats. My 6s 40" tunnel is currently the fastest FE tunnel in the record books at 78.43 mph with a fast pass of 79.5mph in IMPBA.

I hope to get the first 56" tunnel finished up in a few weeks. My time is so limited working a day job, and running ML Boatworks in the evenings and weekends. I do a lot of fiberglass layups for my kits and it eats up my time. I have also been working on the international hobbies stuff..molds, restorations, etc. over the last 6 months and have really enjoyed finding these boats!

But yes, I plan to make these hulls, and there are some guys already on an early list waiting on me actually, lol. My friend is right now trying to get a good source for casting the lower units. The outboard is gear drive, and we sourced gears that PI was using, and I have another person in South Africa that is prepared to make whatever we need...quality stuff. I am just sitting back right now making sure the outboard itself gets produced so there is something to put gears in. I am sending you a PM in just a moment. Mike

F1roddo

Great video, looks like its going very well, congrads! I love the Merc cowl, its looks fantastic.

Keep up the good work and your progress.

Cheers
Chris

rcollector

I ordered a arrowshark dragon outboard leg. When I get it I will mount either the brushless motor I have or a better suited one and my merc cowl to it . We will see how that goes....

YPC

Howzit rcollector - nice set up = could you show me a few pics under the hood - as in your sevo / esc / battery layout

Thanks !

rcollector

Got the brushless motor adapted to the arroshark dragon leg last week, Waiting on some new batteries to show up . I will get it back down off the shelf test and take some pictures then.

rcollector

I would have prefered black but I got a great deal on this red one ....I can always paint it. All I had to do is make a new mounting plate . Used a standard 1/4 round motor collet with a short 1/4 flex cable round on the motor end and square on the end that fit into the drive . Really easy ! I already ordered a bunch of spare gears and other parts from china. I had the drive completely apart already just to check it out. I run in salt so I will be completely disassembling it after each day of running.

rcollector

Second run with the arrowshark lower. Still not full throttle here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suqUU7Dnxzo Needs more trimming but looks good so far

rcollector

The radio box is two part. The story is I made the front part years ago for the gas motor . It is fibeglass. The back section holds the esc an batteries, it is wood. They are bolted end to end and sealed with foam tape. The esc wires pass through a very soft piece of rubber that stretches when you shove them through, Water tight and makes the esc easily removable. No moisture gets in at all ever. Important when running in salt water.