1/10th scale Hydro Build
02-15-2022, 08:00 PM
#176
How do you guys bend a piece of thin ply for hatches? I have tried soaking and holding in place but it just comes back. I've also tried letting it dry in place and then covering in epoxy but it eventually returns to its natural shape.
02-15-2022, 08:37 PM
#177
I would normally add frames/braces to the underside of a hatch. Then again, never mind. I was told earlier that I don't know how to build this boat so I'm probably going to be told I'm wrong anyway.
08-17-2022, 02:58 PM
#180
It's been very slow going. It's been super wet and cold here in Sydney this winter. I've also been slowed a bit mentally I think because I think she's going to be way too heavy.
I have learned a lot though, so I will finish it, and if it is I'll build another hull with the things I've learned. I've been sanding and sealing, it's had 2 coats on the top so far but still needs work. So much sanding!
I have also bought a mono to play with while I'm mucking around getting this finished (and waiting for some warmth so I can paint), so that's slowed me down too
https://www.intlwaters.com/threads/d...uild-6s.83496/
I have learned a lot though, so I will finish it, and if it is I'll build another hull with the things I've learned. I've been sanding and sealing, it's had 2 coats on the top so far but still needs work. So much sanding!
I have also bought a mono to play with while I'm mucking around getting this finished (and waiting for some warmth so I can paint), so that's slowed me down too
https://www.intlwaters.com/threads/d...uild-6s.83496/
08-18-2022, 01:56 AM
#181
Banned
Dont worry about the weight just build the boat. It isnt about the weight its about the wetted area and the drag there. That and the props pitch will determine the load. These hull have an air tunnel and most of the modern hulls for fe have minimal lift built into the tunnels. MLboatworks, Phil Thomas, etc. Once the boat is on plane the hull weight matters but it wont be as prominent as you may believe.. The Finlay hull is designed with FE in mind you will be fine. If weight was really an issue people wouldn't fight to prevent blow overs. The pocket of air in the tunnel can carry the weight .there's enuf there that when the angle of attack becomes to great the boat will go airborne and kite as we call it. Glad you went to the flex shaft versus a 6 degree straight shaft the plans called for. Alot of that propellor is wasted in drag at that angle of attack. For a straight shaft id aim for 4 degrees or less if it were possible. I like to set my struts at zero degrees and let the props natural lift do all the work versus wasting a lot of its energy in drag plowing through the water. I have plans for articulated balll pins like tether boats use to utilize a straight shaft for itz drag less operation and still maintain low AOA at the strut. They will be tuned from O-1 tool steel.. You make the cutter for them yourself from tool steel bar stock on a mill, grinder,. And upright sander. Once I make the tool I can turn them on the lathe.. the hardest part will be centering the dowel pins in the middle of the balls. The precision dowel pins also have to be a pressed fit.
Id also like to ask how did the 3dp go? Did you print the cowl in sections? If it were me id reprint it in a shell of PVC or use the solid PLA as a plug for vacu forming an epoxy glass cowl . You can save quite a bit of weight in this area. Build you a vacuum rig large enuf to do 1/8 cowls and you will have it forever. It you print the hull curvature into cowls deck section of the print as a plug your epoxy glass cowl will maintain the hull curvature obviously. When I did my deck in wood I actually build the cowl deck in sections that followed the line the CA them in to pace at the joints Then the side rails of the cowl itself are curved like the deck and that glues to the sectional decking that will all be fiber glassed in as one piece with epoxy and fiberglass. Another option is to do a smooth hatch that fits then fit a vacu formed pvc cowl to it to finish the boat. The pvc is light and thin.
Regards,
Hubert
Id also like to ask how did the 3dp go? Did you print the cowl in sections? If it were me id reprint it in a shell of PVC or use the solid PLA as a plug for vacu forming an epoxy glass cowl . You can save quite a bit of weight in this area. Build you a vacuum rig large enuf to do 1/8 cowls and you will have it forever. It you print the hull curvature into cowls deck section of the print as a plug your epoxy glass cowl will maintain the hull curvature obviously. When I did my deck in wood I actually build the cowl deck in sections that followed the line the CA them in to pace at the joints Then the side rails of the cowl itself are curved like the deck and that glues to the sectional decking that will all be fiber glassed in as one piece with epoxy and fiberglass. Another option is to do a smooth hatch that fits then fit a vacu formed pvc cowl to it to finish the boat. The pvc is light and thin.
Regards,
Hubert
Last edited by Clugh; 08-18-2022 at 02:31 AM.
08-19-2022, 01:44 PM
#184
Dont worry about the weight just build the boat. It isnt about the weight its about the wetted area and the drag there. That and the props pitch will determine the load. These hull have an air tunnel and most of the modern hulls for fe have minimal lift built into the tunnels. MLboatworks, Phil Thomas, etc. Once the boat is on plane the hull weight matters but it wont be as prominent as you may believe.. The Finlay hull is designed with FE in mind you will be fine. If weight was really an issue people wouldn't fight to prevent blow overs. The pocket of air in the tunnel can carry the weight .there's enuf there that when the angle of attack becomes to great the boat will go airborne and kite as we call it. Glad you went to the flex shaft versus a 6 degree straight shaft the plans called for. Alot of that propellor is wasted in drag at that angle of attack. For a straight shaft id aim for 4 degrees or less if it were possible. I like to set my struts at zero degrees and let the props natural lift do all the work versus wasting a lot of its energy in drag plowing through the water. I have plans for articulated balll pins like tether boats use to utilize a straight shaft for itz drag less operation and still maintain low AOA at the strut. They will be tuned from O-1 tool steel.. You make the cutter for them yourself from tool steel bar stock on a mill, grinder,. And upright sander. Once I make the tool I can turn them on the lathe.. the hardest part will be centering the dowel pins in the middle of the balls. The precision dowel pins also have to be a pressed fit.
Id also like to ask how did the 3dp go? Did you print the cowl in sections? If it were me id reprint it in a shell of PVC or use the solid PLA as a plug for vacu forming an epoxy glass cowl . You can save quite a bit of weight in this area. Build you a vacuum rig large enuf to do 1/8 cowls and you will have it forever. It you print the hull curvature into cowls deck section of the print as a plug your epoxy glass cowl will maintain the hull curvature obviously. When I did my deck in wood I actually build the cowl deck in sections that followed the line the CA them in to pace at the joints Then the side rails of the cowl itself are curved like the deck and that glues to the sectional decking that will all be fiber glassed in as one piece with epoxy and fiberglass. Another option is to do a smooth hatch that fits then fit a vacu formed pvc cowl to it to finish the boat. The pvc is light and thin.
Regards,
Hubert
Id also like to ask how did the 3dp go? Did you print the cowl in sections? If it were me id reprint it in a shell of PVC or use the solid PLA as a plug for vacu forming an epoxy glass cowl . You can save quite a bit of weight in this area. Build you a vacuum rig large enuf to do 1/8 cowls and you will have it forever. It you print the hull curvature into cowls deck section of the print as a plug your epoxy glass cowl will maintain the hull curvature obviously. When I did my deck in wood I actually build the cowl deck in sections that followed the line the CA them in to pace at the joints Then the side rails of the cowl itself are curved like the deck and that glues to the sectional decking that will all be fiber glassed in as one piece with epoxy and fiberglass. Another option is to do a smooth hatch that fits then fit a vacu formed pvc cowl to it to finish the boat. The pvc is light and thin.
Regards,
Hubert
I ended up printing a mold, and I'll purchase some fibreglassing supplies to have a go at creating a part from it. I still have to epoxy and paint the mold yet thought. Hoping it will work out.
08-25-2022, 11:36 PM
#185
Banned
09-07-2022, 05:41 AM
#186
Banned
BTW I moved away from the Tosti Asti To the U-711 miss seven eleven because my driver wants his cockpit enclosed and this hull can be that.
The Finlay eighth scale has that inside bevel just like this boat
Regards
Hubert
Regards
Hubert
Last edited by Clugh; 09-07-2022 at 05:43 AM.
09-07-2022, 05:50 AM
#188
Banned
Just so you know we are hardly utilizing the 3dP because you can print the canopy in a shell and then the canopy finished would simply be PLA and then of course there is ABS printing as well but it needs good ventilation.
Last edited by Clugh; 09-07-2022 at 05:52 AM.
