Electric 1/5 Miss Bud
#26
Now that is one I can't help you with. I normally have any prop work I need done by Mark Sholund, in Michigan. He does work on props and sells them as well. When your boat is ready to go, check with him and see what he recommends. He may tell you the boat will need a "cupped" or cut prop as there are several ways the prop can be modified to do different things such as lift more or less, have more or less push, etc. His website is:
http://www.props4u.net
http://www.props4u.net
#28
I guess that's what happens when you're around and working on the boats for 38 years. You learn the whos, the what's, the whys and the hows. The sad part is there are people in the activity, both in R/C and manned boats, that have forgotten more than I have learned.
#29
Thread Starter
If you ever get into planes I'd be happy to return the favor , what of it I can remember LOL ..Been flying for over 48 years and think I'm loosing more then I learn ..
I did make the molds for the air intake today
I did make the molds for the air intake today
#30
Actually, I'm currently building a pair of Sig Kadet Jrs from plans. One is getting the tricycle gear with an OS 25FP while the second is getting twin floats, extended wings and an OS 35AX with a three bladed prop. Both are also getting significantly lowered wingtips as I will be adding ailerons
#31
Thread Starter
As it goes I'm helping one of my girls build a Kadet Sr ,we removed all the dihedral and added ailerons up to the rear wing spar . also added a set of flaps just for fun . using a saito 72 for power .. I figured if it's going to be a trainer why not give it flaps to learn with ..you can do all sorts of stupid stuff with the flaps , you can set them up as flaperons , or set them up to butterfly and cause massive breaking , or just use them as standard flaps . The kadet is so forgiving it's a great plane to experiment with ..
#32
Even with the longer wing on the "Float Kadet", there just isn't enough span for flaps. The span is only 54" while the "Trike Kadet" is a bit over 48", both measurements being with the stock dihedral. That said, I'm also looking at a slightly longer horizontal stab as well to give it and the elevators a bit more authority when needed due to the weight and drag of the floats
#33
Thread Starter
If you want more authority make the elevators longer . this will help more then making the stab wider because it will take less deflection for the elevators to do the same job . if you make the stabilizer bigger it will take bigger elevators to overcome the stabilizer . so in effect you will have the same effectiveness but more stability because of the bigger stabilizer . .. you can dial down big control surfaces if need be but if you use large deflections on a small control surface the foil will stall and become ineffective, I could see that being a problem with a Kadet with floats because of the very short elevators . .. cheers ..
#35
Thread Starter
finally received the engine . started the conversion by machining a 1lb flywheel , next was to make some billet motor mounts , I used 4 rubber mounts to help deal with the vibration of this high compression power plant . The .24 carb was replaced with a .36 . . Motor mount blocks were epoxied into the hull and motor mount studs were epoxied into the blocks for mounting .. Next I removed the new cylinder and machined the 3 center fins just enough to make them round . I then machined a 2 piece sleeve that will clamp to the outside of the barrel to water cool the center portion of the cylinder . The cylinder will be fed by dual water inlets from the rudder . Still waiting for the driveshaft . but will move on to the muffler once the water jacket is done ..
#36
Thread Starter
Just finished the exhaust header pipe, the ports are so massive on this engine I needed to use SS pipe for a ZDZ 210cc engine , was a little tricky having the header pipe exit the engine and not cover the mounting bolts .. The pipe is a Greeves that has been cut in half and shortened . added a extra baffle plate to help cancel noise . will have to do some testing to make sure the exhaust is not to restrictive .. also mounted the fuel tank . once the drive shaft arrives I can finish her off and get it read for paint ..
#38
Flip that pipe over or you will have water issues. With the pipe opening pointed down, that prop will throw water right into the pipe and, since there's no way to drain it while running, it could fill the pipe up to the bottom of the exit tube
#39
Thread Starter
Good point friend , it's a modified pipe form one of my planes . the down spout is a plane thing . I will cut it off straight or tilt it to the left .. After much thinking about the top panels I think it's best to join the scoop section to the front cover . I can hinge the whole assembly at the front of the boat and have a latch at the back of the scoop . This way It will only need one attachment point for the cover , This will give me easy and fast access to the fuel tank , batteries , engine and carb settings . the other option I considered was to bolt the front panel on and have just the scoop section quick release but I like having easy access to the fuel tank and batteries .. The second option would be stronger on a flip over but doubt that will ever happen .. ..
#40
#41
Thread Starter
Yeah my buddy Cliff and I are old time worriers when it comes to racing , so it's every man for himself LOL. We always try to respect the line but in all racing you sometimes see a opening that's not there or something is there that you did not see , that's normally when thing get bad for us too .. No hard feeling though ..We have the most fun endurance racing and will race for a 1/2 hr at a time . My favorite position is to follow and apply pressure , just lay back and wait until they make that mistake . but then your the one that can't make a mistake because Cliff is so good he will take it right back . we don't even have winners we just love to race .