SV27 Water Cooling
10-08-2006, 05:20 PM
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SV27 Water Cooling
I just noticed a big difference on the rudder water pickups between my Rossi/Speedmasters setup and the SV27. The Speedmasters pickup is on the left side of the rudder and the pickup on the SV27 rudder is on the right side. I wonder why the difference since both are racing set-ups designed to make right turns. Hmmmmm....
Also, here is the temporary water pickup (as several other people have also done) I installed on my SV27. Works great and I've only got about half of the opening below the hull line. Motor runs substantially cooler than it did before.
Also, here is the temporary water pickup (as several other people have also done) I installed on my SV27. Works great and I've only got about half of the opening below the hull line. Motor runs substantially cooler than it did before.
10-10-2006, 04:44 PM
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RE: SV27 Water Cooling
Well, word came in today, the new motor will be on it's way soon. Since I don't want to repeat the roast I had running the boat stock, I added a water pickup much the same as Rooski's here, and took things a couple of steps further.
If you measure the inside diameter of the water line, it is 1/8" dia (0.125"). The inside diameters of all the brass fittings that the hose attaches to, and the water outlet measure 0.100". This creates 5 spots in the system to slow water down (8 if you use the rudder as a pickup, and if you count the tubes connecting the lines to the motor water jacket).
You might think that the difference between 0.100" and 0.125" is too small to consider, but a 0.125" line flows 56% more water than a 0.100" line. Therefore, I drilled the brass fittings on the ESC, and the water outlet out to 0.125". Be VERY careful if you decide to do this, it is about the absolute max diameter you could go without screwing up the fittings, and if you're not carefull, you WILL screw up the fittings, and finding a replacement heat sink for the ESC could be a real problem. I've included a pic of the ESC heatsink with one hole original size, and one drilled out so you can see the difference for yourself.
Then as I mentioned above, the little plastic tubes connecting the heatsink and the lines cause another restiction, but not as much as the brass fittings did. I used a length of 1/4" ID tubing, slid it over top of the original line and the water jacket inlet to hold the lines on instead of the small plastic tubes..
All this, with a pickup that will scoop up MUCH more water than the rudder should add up to quite a bit cooler running. The colder water in the ponds this time of year won't hurt either.
Any foreseeable problems with this setup?
Oh yeah, here's a pic of the label that melted off of the motor as well. If you see one of these in your hull after a run, you have problems.
If you measure the inside diameter of the water line, it is 1/8" dia (0.125"). The inside diameters of all the brass fittings that the hose attaches to, and the water outlet measure 0.100". This creates 5 spots in the system to slow water down (8 if you use the rudder as a pickup, and if you count the tubes connecting the lines to the motor water jacket).
You might think that the difference between 0.100" and 0.125" is too small to consider, but a 0.125" line flows 56% more water than a 0.100" line. Therefore, I drilled the brass fittings on the ESC, and the water outlet out to 0.125". Be VERY careful if you decide to do this, it is about the absolute max diameter you could go without screwing up the fittings, and if you're not carefull, you WILL screw up the fittings, and finding a replacement heat sink for the ESC could be a real problem. I've included a pic of the ESC heatsink with one hole original size, and one drilled out so you can see the difference for yourself.
Then as I mentioned above, the little plastic tubes connecting the heatsink and the lines cause another restiction, but not as much as the brass fittings did. I used a length of 1/4" ID tubing, slid it over top of the original line and the water jacket inlet to hold the lines on instead of the small plastic tubes..
All this, with a pickup that will scoop up MUCH more water than the rudder should add up to quite a bit cooler running. The colder water in the ponds this time of year won't hurt either.
Any foreseeable problems with this setup?
Oh yeah, here's a pic of the label that melted off of the motor as well. If you see one of these in your hull after a run, you have problems.
10-10-2006, 05:18 PM
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RE: SV27 Water Cooling
My new water pickup just came in. No bracket drilling required. Almost too easy. I've got maybe 1/3 of the opening exposed below the hull so the drag shouldn't be too bad.
10-10-2006, 05:20 PM
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RE: SV27 Water Cooling
ORIGINAL: Stinger9d9
Well, word came in today, the new motor will be on it's way soon. Since I don't want to repeat the roast I had running the boat stock, I added a water pickup much the same as Rooski's here, and took things a couple of steps further.
If you measure the inside diameter of the water line, it is 1/8" dia (0.125"). The inside diameters of all the brass fittings that the hose attaches to, and the water outlet measure 0.100". This creates 5 spots in the system to slow water down (8 if you use the rudder as a pickup, and if you count the tubes connecting the lines to the motor water jacket).
You might think that the difference between 0.100" and 0.125" is too small to consider, but a 0.125" line flows 56% more water than a 0.100" line. Therefore, I drilled the brass fittings on the ESC, and the water outlet out to 0.125". Be VERY careful if you decide to do this, it is about the absolute max diameter you could go without screwing up the fittings, and if you're not carefull, you WILL screw up the fittings, and finding a replacement heat sink for the ESC could be a real problem. I've included a pic of the ESC heatsink with one hole original size, and one drilled out so you can see the difference for yourself.
Then as I mentioned above, the little plastic tubes connecting the heatsink and the lines cause another restiction, but not as much as the brass fittings did. I used a length of 1/4" ID tubing, slid it over top of the original line and the water jacket inlet to hold the lines on instead of the small plastic tubes..
All this, with a pickup that will scoop up MUCH more water than the rudder should add up to quite a bit cooler running. The colder water in the ponds this time of year won't hurt either.
Any foreseeable problems with this setup?
Oh yeah, here's a pic of the label that melted off of the motor as well. If you see one of these in your hull after a run, you have problems.
Well, word came in today, the new motor will be on it's way soon. Since I don't want to repeat the roast I had running the boat stock, I added a water pickup much the same as Rooski's here, and took things a couple of steps further.
If you measure the inside diameter of the water line, it is 1/8" dia (0.125"). The inside diameters of all the brass fittings that the hose attaches to, and the water outlet measure 0.100". This creates 5 spots in the system to slow water down (8 if you use the rudder as a pickup, and if you count the tubes connecting the lines to the motor water jacket).
You might think that the difference between 0.100" and 0.125" is too small to consider, but a 0.125" line flows 56% more water than a 0.100" line. Therefore, I drilled the brass fittings on the ESC, and the water outlet out to 0.125". Be VERY careful if you decide to do this, it is about the absolute max diameter you could go without screwing up the fittings, and if you're not carefull, you WILL screw up the fittings, and finding a replacement heat sink for the ESC could be a real problem. I've included a pic of the ESC heatsink with one hole original size, and one drilled out so you can see the difference for yourself.
Then as I mentioned above, the little plastic tubes connecting the heatsink and the lines cause another restiction, but not as much as the brass fittings did. I used a length of 1/4" ID tubing, slid it over top of the original line and the water jacket inlet to hold the lines on instead of the small plastic tubes..
All this, with a pickup that will scoop up MUCH more water than the rudder should add up to quite a bit cooler running. The colder water in the ponds this time of year won't hurt either.
Any foreseeable problems with this setup?
Oh yeah, here's a pic of the label that melted off of the motor as well. If you see one of these in your hull after a run, you have problems.
Looks good. I am in the process of changing out all the stock tubing for larger ID stuff but I'll probably leave the ESC heatsink tubes alone.
10-16-2006, 02:29 PM
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RE: SV27 Water Cooling
Warehouse hobbies sells those. It is for a gas boat, but it looks like a really good alternative to the pinhole in the stock rudder.
Increasing the diameter of the tubing should make a noticeable difference in cooling as well. Back in college, we learned in hydraulics, that doubling the diameter of a pipe increases the amount it can flow by 4 times. If you go from the stock tubing (1/8" inside dia) one size larger to 5/32" inside diameter, you increase the amount it can flow by 56%.
One and a half times the flow from stock can't hurt, and it's really easy and cheap to do. The hoses also fit onto the existing brass fittings nice and tight, so you should be safe there as well.
Increasing the diameter of the tubing should make a noticeable difference in cooling as well. Back in college, we learned in hydraulics, that doubling the diameter of a pipe increases the amount it can flow by 4 times. If you go from the stock tubing (1/8" inside dia) one size larger to 5/32" inside diameter, you increase the amount it can flow by 56%.
One and a half times the flow from stock can't hurt, and it's really easy and cheap to do. The hoses also fit onto the existing brass fittings nice and tight, so you should be safe there as well.
10-16-2006, 03:22 PM
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RE: SV27 Water Cooling
Well,mine is home made ,inexpensive and works great ! [8D] Look !
As I nearly fried the motor I added a water cooling jacket,and now it's perfect ...
As I nearly fried the motor I added a water cooling jacket,and now it's perfect ...
10-18-2006, 08:58 AM
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RE: SV27 Water Cooling
Yeah 2 water jackets seem like a good idea too. I was thinking about making one like the homemade one in the tips and tricks section of offshoreelectrics. Does anyone know where to get foam tape wide enough to do it?
10-18-2006, 02:41 PM
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RE: SV27 Water Cooling
ORIGINAL: Funboyfly
Well,mine is home made ,inexpensive and works great ! [8D] Look !
As I nearly fried the motor I added a water cooling jacket,and now it's perfect ...
Well,mine is home made ,inexpensive and works great ! [8D] Look !
As I nearly fried the motor I added a water cooling jacket,and now it's perfect ...
Also, do you have any leakage problems with those 2 water jackets? Mine stock jacket leaks like crazy now with the added water pressure of the new pickup.
10-18-2006, 02:44 PM
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RE: SV27 Water Cooling
ORIGINAL: tunda
just wanted to know where you got your trick water pick up from?
just wanted to know where you got your trick water pick up from?
10-18-2006, 05:56 PM
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RE: SV27 Water Cooling
Actually ,I noticed that the water pick up in the rudder fin is insufficient,especially during left turns(and even in a straight line).
As I got bored making only right turns to cool the motor,I removed the rudder pick up and added a second water pick up that works great.
I also re-drilled the stock water outlet at ID of 3,2mm and replaced all the tubings.
Now,I can see a good water flow coming out from both sides and didn't notice any bad effect on the boat handling.
I had a leakage problem at the first trial shot ,due to a bad progress of the water tubing that stressed the silicone water jacket.In that way the water jacket went out of shape and water could escape.So be careful and check with accuracy the fitting.
As I got bored making only right turns to cool the motor,
I removed the rudder pick up and added a second water pick up that works great.I also re-drilled the stock water outlet at ID of 3,2mm and replaced all the tubings.
Now,I can see a good water flow coming out from both sides and didn't notice any bad effect on the boat handling.
I had a leakage problem at the first trial shot ,due to a bad progress of the water tubing that stressed the silicone water jacket.In that way the water jacket went out of shape and water could escape.So be careful and check with accuracy the fitting.
10-19-2006, 07:42 AM
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RE: SV27 Water Cooling
I will, because I had some water in my boat after a very short run, and since I had the hatch taped shut very well, I am thinking thats where the water came from. I will try it if I ever get my motor before winter hits, and I will post results. I also plan to put in a better water pickup, so some sort of mod will be necessary.
10-19-2006, 11:15 AM
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RE: SV27 Water Cooling
I had a leak over the weekend that I just couldn't find (more the 2 ounces). I thought for sure it was coming from the jacket because I would see a tiny drop at the top rear. Then after a 5 min soak (with an old book on top to force her into the water), small pieces of dry sponge by all the possible holes and water line hook-ups, and pumping the tub water through the system, it became very evident where it was coming from. Under the back plates for the trim tabs. I added a little silicon to the holes and no more water.
During the runs, I guess the water was getting past the bulkhead that holds the stuff tube, was hitting the coupler and spraying up against the inside hatch, making it look like I had a leak up front.
She's bone dry now.
During the runs, I guess the water was getting past the bulkhead that holds the stuff tube, was hitting the coupler and spraying up against the inside hatch, making it look like I had a leak up front.
She's bone dry now.
10-21-2006, 03:04 AM
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RE: SV27 Water Cooling
Actually ,adding the water pickup on the left side made my boat turn left more,so adding another to the right will equal it out .Those who add an fm can adjust for it like I did,or you can add another pickup on the other side to do the same.
ORIGINAL: Funboyfly
Actually ,I noticed that the water pick up in the rudder fin is insufficient,especially during left turns(and even in a straight line).
As I got bored making only right turns to cool the motor,I removed the rudder pick up and added a second water pick up that works great.
I also re-drilled the stock water outlet at ID of 3,2mm and replaced all the tubings.
Now,I can see a good water flow coming out from both sides and didn't notice any bad effect on the boat handling.
I had a leakage problem at the first trial shot ,due to a bad progress of the water tubing that stressed the silicone water jacket.In that way the water jacket went out of shape and water could escape.So be careful and check with accuracy the fitting.
Actually ,I noticed that the water pick up in the rudder fin is insufficient,especially during left turns(and even in a straight line).
As I got bored making only right turns to cool the motor,
I removed the rudder pick up and added a second water pick up that works great.I also re-drilled the stock water outlet at ID of 3,2mm and replaced all the tubings.
Now,I can see a good water flow coming out from both sides and didn't notice any bad effect on the boat handling.
I had a leakage problem at the first trial shot ,due to a bad progress of the water tubing that stressed the silicone water jacket.In that way the water jacket went out of shape and water could escape.So be careful and check with accuracy the fitting.
10-21-2006, 10:10 AM
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RE: SV27 Water Cooling
If adding a single water pick-up to one side of the hull/transom area is capable of causing the boat to yaw left/right, then that means there's more significant drag being added to the setup. Adding a second one to the opposite side to counter the first one doesn't sound like a good move since now you're adding even more drag. If there wasn't any amount of yaw added to the setup by adding just one pickup, I would say no big deal, but we're trying to get every mph out on the water that we're capable of.
It seems it would be more adventagous to just mount a single pickup tube in the center of the hull, under the strut, using one of the strut bolts to secure it. Now, you just have one pickup in the water, and it's centered, so there's no left/right yaw being applied to the system. Also, you're getting a constant "in the water" cooling system that always works and is below the scum line.
Just a suggestion.
It seems it would be more adventagous to just mount a single pickup tube in the center of the hull, under the strut, using one of the strut bolts to secure it. Now, you just have one pickup in the water, and it's centered, so there's no left/right yaw being applied to the system. Also, you're getting a constant "in the water" cooling system that always works and is below the scum line.
Just a suggestion.
10-21-2006, 10:16 AM
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RE: SV27 Water Cooling
Wouldn't you be creating dirty water ( not the best term ) for the prop to bite, being a center mount ?
ORIGINAL: Blackjack52
If adding a single water pick-up to one side of the hull/transom area is capable of causing the boat to yaw left/right, then that means there's more significant drag being added to the setup. Adding a second one to the opposite side to counter the first one doesn't sound like a good move since now you're adding even more drag. If there wasn't any amount of yaw added to the setup by adding just one pickup, I would say no big deal, but we're trying to get every mph out on the water that we're capable of.
It seems it would be more adventagous to just mount a single pickup tube in the center of the hull, under the strut, using one of the strut bolts to secure it. Now, you just have one pickup in the water, and it's centered, so there's no left/right yaw being applied to the system. Also, you're getting a constant "in the water" cooling system that always works and is below the scum line.
Just a suggestion.
If adding a single water pick-up to one side of the hull/transom area is capable of causing the boat to yaw left/right, then that means there's more significant drag being added to the setup. Adding a second one to the opposite side to counter the first one doesn't sound like a good move since now you're adding even more drag. If there wasn't any amount of yaw added to the setup by adding just one pickup, I would say no big deal, but we're trying to get every mph out on the water that we're capable of.
It seems it would be more adventagous to just mount a single pickup tube in the center of the hull, under the strut, using one of the strut bolts to secure it. Now, you just have one pickup in the water, and it's centered, so there's no left/right yaw being applied to the system. Also, you're getting a constant "in the water" cooling system that always works and is below the scum line.
Just a suggestion.
10-21-2006, 11:05 AM
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RE: SV27 Water Cooling
I don't know. But I can imagine that having one very small stream cut into the prop plane by mounting the pickup down by the strut has to be better than having 2 water pickups causing more drag. I haven't tested this since I have more than adequate cooling from the rudder (just widened the hole by 1/32"), even running a big 48mm prop.
What about adding an under-the-hull water pick-up all together if getting "dirty water" is the concern?
Finding cooler water might be an issue for me when I try the m1347.
What about adding an under-the-hull water pick-up all together if getting "dirty water" is the concern?
Finding cooler water might be an issue for me when I try the m1347.
10-21-2006, 11:16 AM
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RE: SV27 Water Cooling
Also, if getting dirty water is a possibility by mounting the pick-up down by the strut, I would imagine it might only affect the performance if you were using a 2 bladed prop. The 3 bladed prop will alreay have 1 blade out of the water while the other 2 are pushing you. Again, this is theory for me because I'm very new to boats, but it only makes sense......I hope.
10-21-2006, 03:08 PM
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RE: SV27 Water Cooling
Added 2nd pickup on the other side and now I have water shooting a foot out of the outlets on both sides!.Checked temps after the run and they are cool to the touch after 14 cells.Lost about half a mph,down to 40.4 mph now.with a 445 prop.runs very true and quick,I'll heep this setup,it's fast and most of all ,it' s not going to kill my motor and esc due to heating problems.[8D]
10-21-2006, 09:07 PM
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RE: SV27 Water Cooling
Thanks for the info. I was curious also so I added a makeshift water pick-up to mine (OD is 1/8" and stuck about 1/16" down in the slipstream on the left side; since it was easy to add and remove). Comparing speeds with my gps notes I found about a .8 mph loss using this 1 water pick-up. You might not be putting the pick-up down as far as I did, but I wanted the worst case figures. She definitely ran cooler though. After switching back to stock water cooling setup I ran my 4500s for the first time after a ccuple breakin charging/dis. Right around 36.3mph (12 cells), but the water was a tad tight, had a little chop, and was able to add some pos trim tab.
I think I'll just widen the rudder pick-up another 1/32-1/16. The less in the water the better I'll feel.
I think I'll just widen the rudder pick-up another 1/32-1/16. The less in the water the better I'll feel.
10-22-2006, 01:39 PM
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RE: SV27 Water Cooling
Yeah..cleaner is better.But this boat will never be raced and the added cooling is worth the trade off for less than a mph.It is almost too fast as it is now anyways,and I like the way the twin outlets shoot the water out from both sides.
10-22-2006, 02:10 PM
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RE: SV27 Water Cooling
With the added water cooling I measured the motor temp between several runs with IB4200 ,and I was never over 35° celsius[8D] Pretty good isn't it ?