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Old 08-17-2009, 10:08 PM
  #801  
befu
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Default RE: Pro Boat Mini-V EP RTR

The other thing is motor and battery heat. The batteries are pretty toasty after discharging, which is surprising. It takes them 20 minutes to dump and at a 1100 mAhr ratting, that is less than 3 amps draw! Battery shouldn't be warm at 3 amps I would think. Will have to see what the Lipo's do.

The motor is also warm, needs to be cooled. Now, I see people adding cooling coils to it, but I had a different thought I am going to try. The motor mount is aluminum and clamps all the way around the motor. As we know, aluminum acts as a isotherm, that is why it is used as a heat sink. So, why not attache a piece of aluminum tubing to the top of the aluminum motor mount? It will cool that and the whole aluminum mount will try to stay at one temperature. Need some way to attach the aluminum tube to the top mount that will transfer heat at a similar rate as aluminum.. will have to look that up.

If it works, that would be an easy cooling trick. Will also look at cooling the stock ESC. Others may want to upgrade thiers, but multiply that cost x 6 and YIKES!!!

Anyways, good thread, cool to see all the different approaches to modifications!
Old 08-18-2009, 07:21 AM
  #802  
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Default RE: Pro Boat Mini-V EP RTR


ORIGINAL: befu
So, why not attache a piece of aluminum tubing to the top of the aluminum motor mount?

Anyways, good thread, cool to see all the different approaches to modifications!
That has already been done and proven to work ok, but not as efficient as a cooling coil. Even better than a cooling coil would be a cooling jacket.
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...?prod=gnd-4195

Yes, it will cost a little money with 6 boats, but that is part of the fun isn't it
The motors will last much longer if cooled properly. So in theory, if you don't spend now, you will spend later
Old 08-19-2009, 03:17 AM
  #803  
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Default RE: Pro Boat Mini-V EP RTR

For tight space such as the Mini-V, instead of using cooling coil, try to cool the motor as the AquaCraft's Mini Rio. Very simple and good use of space. For the ESC, cooling can be done with couple of drill thru holes on the exposed heat sink. Put couple section of copper tubes thru the holes and hook up to the water cooling tube. Besure to put thermo grease between the copper tubes and the heat sink.

I ran mini w/ a flex cable with a 3mm drive shaft from the motor/connector all the way to the prop. (eliminate all u joints)

Instead of a 1350mah 2S Lipo, try a 2000mah 2S Lipo. the extra wt. of the battey add stability and increase play time.
Old 08-23-2009, 09:39 PM
  #804  
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Default RE: Pro Boat Mini-V EP RTR

Alright, got to run the mini's again tonight. Had a blast. Kids were running bone stock. I had one hull that had been modified with my flex drive, an Octura 1/8 drive shaft and the red plastic X431 prop. Just that mod gives you some good speed, but does lower the run time as expected.

I put in a 7.4v - 1700 lipo and this really woke it up. The hull skips across the water, nice and stable but mostly out of the water. A little porpoising, but mostly air under the hull. It was about as fast as I think this hull can go and be very stable. Boats set up this way have to be driven constently. Cut the throttle and work it through a turn and then lay into it again. It bounces around a bit, but it was a blast. Motor wasn't overly warm and it had no cooling yet. Temps outside were also cooler than normal, low 70's.

Then I tried a 11.1v-1300 lipo. this was a bit scary. Really didn't run much faster than the 7.4 as the hull would lay over on one side from the torque. The prop was audilbly cavitating. If I end up getting a mini-C, I will set it up this way as I think the cat would handle the speed better.

Shot a short video while my son piloted the 7.4 volt version, will have to upload it and figure out how to post it.

So, for me it is a stock boat with the following mods:
Flex drive to get rid of u-joints. Mine is not full flex as I use the original driveshaft, just flex were the ujoints were. Works great if you have the tools.
Octura hardware on the outdrive. 1/8" shaft, drive dog and the x431 red plastic prop. Haven't tried the 1.6 series prop yet.
7.4 volt lipo. At least 1700 mahr - will have to see what other size I can find to fit and a cheap price.
Upgraded to deans connectors also.
silicone the hatch as I described earlier.
I am also going to still add some type of cooling to the motors.

Another thing I found out today. I pulled to much antenae out of the boat. It was hanging down out of the top of the tube and touching the water. Terrible glitching and control. Need to work on the antanae and gettign longer liners.

So, until I get all of them going at this performance level, I think I am very happy!

Brian
Old 08-23-2009, 11:16 PM
  #805  
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Default RE: Pro Boat Mini-V EP RTR

Hey everyone something weird happened to my mini v... the last weekend i ran it at the lake and the motor would just stop responding... but steering would still work, now this weekend the motor was completely locked up, I couldn't even turn it over by hand.. so do I just need a new motor?
Old 08-30-2009, 09:05 PM
  #806  
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Default RE: Pro Boat Mini-V EP RTR

Hmm, that sounds odd. Have you taken it apart yet? Loosen the four screws holding the motor in tight so it can spin. Then try to turn the prop. If the motor twist in the mount, it is the motor. If it still will not twist, something bad happened to your driveshaft and stuffing tube I would say.

If you have a volt meter, check to see if the speed control is putting out voltage. Or, hook up a mild motor to it and see if it spins.

Good luck
Old 10-02-2009, 08:44 PM
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Default RE: Pro Boat Mini-V EP RTR

I've skimmed through this thread til my eyes HURT!
Can someone please explaine and or point me to info on how to eliminate the u-jointson the Mini-V
Old 10-02-2009, 09:39 PM
  #808  
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Default RE: Pro Boat Mini-V EP RTR

I would convert it to a wire drive with a separate rudder. Should look a little something like this when you are done. But you will be using the strut that come with the boat. The boat actually came with what we call a strudder. That is a strut, that holds the outdrive in place and a rudder all in one piece. You will need to lock the strut so it doesn't turn because you will be turning with the rudder.
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Old 10-03-2009, 10:23 PM
  #809  
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Default RE: Pro Boat Mini-V EP RTR

How do I convert it to a wire drive?
Old 10-04-2009, 03:18 PM
  #810  
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Default RE: Pro Boat Mini-V EP RTR

Do you have access to a lathe by chance? If you do my method was really easy and cheap. if not, I can help you out for free. Let me know. Look at my post from 8-18-09

Know how you feel, I read the whole thing, took me days!!!!

Brian
Old 10-04-2009, 09:21 PM
  #811  
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Default RE: Pro Boat Mini-V EP RTR


ORIGINAL: befu

Do you have access to a lathe by chance? If you do my method was really easy and cheap. if not, I can help you out for free. Let me know. Look at my post from 8-18-09

Know how you feel, I read the whole thing, took me days!!!!

Brian
No Brian don't have access to a lathe...Wish I had one!Im kinda lost.I've been into planes and cars for awile but this is my first boat.Luv it but I know it needs some improvment.I have read bout the .098 conversion but don't really know how to do it.I got a coupler from a mini rio and tried to use it between the motor and shaft.It wabbled and viberated like crazy!Any help wouldbe appreciated!
Old 06-19-2011, 12:32 PM
  #812  
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Default RE: Pro Boat Mini-V EP RTR

Hi,
I got a simple question about Proboat mini-V.
Which battery (and Li-Po saver if its Li-Po) shoul i get Whitout having to change anything else exept plug?
My Mini-V is all stock.
Sorry for my english

Thanks.

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