Dumas Chris-Craft 1940 Barrel Back
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Dumas Chris-Craft 1940 Barrel Back
I recently competed building a Dumas Chris-Craft 1940 Barrel Back, I have been having some issues with the motor that I have chosen for the boat. I’m using a Novak Super Duty speed controller, running double batteries to power a Trinity Monster MAXX Pro Motor.
The second and third time the boat was out I had tragic accidents where I managed to almost sink it. After everything dried out the boat worked to a point, the speed control seams fine, but the motor had started to run a bit slower.
So I opened the motor up to clean it out, I used electrical contact cleaner and rubbing alcohol to clean everything out and reassembled it. Note the motor prior to cleaning it didn’t seem to want to run all the time (like it was stuck). I have tried an old Motor from an RC car and the seams to work ok.
Could I have ruined by cleaning out? Did the Water kill it? Or lastly because the motor is direct drive it has been running in reverse, I’m not sure if this would damage it or not?
Thanks
Brian
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RE: Dumas Chris-Craft 1940 Barrel Back
Wow that's a beautifull boat! I don't think I can dig up that much patience (or time) to build something like that.
Water wouldn't have ruined the motor. The motors can actually run under water, but the brushes will wear out quickly....if you're using a soft compound brush they'll wear out very quickly. My thought is that when the boat started sinking you probably didn't run the motor much anyway so that wouldn't be to much of an issue, but I'd replace the brushes anyway, which I think with the motor you have you can.
I don't know what kind of magnets that motor has, but some magnets will rust, some will not. Neo's will rust. After it gets wet just spray it out with motor cleaner or wd-40 and let it dry out. I'll take the air compressor and blow it out to speed things up and really dry it out. If you see any rust on the springs replace them.
Sometimes you can get a brush hung up on the com and it won't want to spin right. No biggie just reseat the brushes and see how it spins then. Also you could have possibly used too long of a motor mount screw, check on that.
Hope this helps a bit,
Bryan
Why would your motor be running in reverse if it's direct drive? You're only running one motor aren't you? Direct drive shouldn't affect that at all. If you motor is running in reverse you probably have your motor leads crossed up.
Water wouldn't have ruined the motor. The motors can actually run under water, but the brushes will wear out quickly....if you're using a soft compound brush they'll wear out very quickly. My thought is that when the boat started sinking you probably didn't run the motor much anyway so that wouldn't be to much of an issue, but I'd replace the brushes anyway, which I think with the motor you have you can.
I don't know what kind of magnets that motor has, but some magnets will rust, some will not. Neo's will rust. After it gets wet just spray it out with motor cleaner or wd-40 and let it dry out. I'll take the air compressor and blow it out to speed things up and really dry it out. If you see any rust on the springs replace them.
Sometimes you can get a brush hung up on the com and it won't want to spin right. No biggie just reseat the brushes and see how it spins then. Also you could have possibly used too long of a motor mount screw, check on that.
Hope this helps a bit,
Bryan
Why would your motor be running in reverse if it's direct drive? You're only running one motor aren't you? Direct drive shouldn't affect that at all. If you motor is running in reverse you probably have your motor leads crossed up.
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RE: Dumas Chris-Craft 1940 Barrel Back
Thanks it took me about 7 months to finish, but I did the exterior epoxy finish twice.
I did change out the brushes to a set of new ones, and that didn’t seem to do the trick. As for the motor running back wards I did have to reverse the leads so I would get forward thrust. In less the pitch on the prop is wrong, but it only goes on in one direction. Do they make right and left props for RC boats?
Ever thing in the motor look good while it was apart no rust of any thing like that. The motor do have internal capacitors maybe they have gone bad. I’m wondering if I could have over heated it, can this have an effect on the motor.
Thanks for the input.
I did change out the brushes to a set of new ones, and that didn’t seem to do the trick. As for the motor running back wards I did have to reverse the leads so I would get forward thrust. In less the pitch on the prop is wrong, but it only goes on in one direction. Do they make right and left props for RC boats?
Ever thing in the motor look good while it was apart no rust of any thing like that. The motor do have internal capacitors maybe they have gone bad. I’m wondering if I could have over heated it, can this have an effect on the motor.
Thanks for the input.
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RE: Dumas Chris-Craft 1940 Barrel Back
Bri-
First of all, there are left and right hand props for RC boats.. Definately so. As for overheating- I doubt it, I'm guessing you have cooling of some form on there? If you were running the boat gently, not WOT or whatnot for a while it should be OK. Reverse running a motor, will definately slow it down, depending on the timing of the motor, so get some proper props and un-reverse the leads...
Here's a link for some props to get you started : http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/categories.php?cat=16
First of all, there are left and right hand props for RC boats.. Definately so. As for overheating- I doubt it, I'm guessing you have cooling of some form on there? If you were running the boat gently, not WOT or whatnot for a while it should be OK. Reverse running a motor, will definately slow it down, depending on the timing of the motor, so get some proper props and un-reverse the leads...
Here's a link for some props to get you started : http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/categories.php?cat=16
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RE: Dumas Chris-Craft 1940 Barrel Back
I would think about a different motor, I would think a motor like that in a 28" long heavy wooden hull would light on fire on direct drive. Maybe not, just my opinion. My choice would be a 700 sized motor. You can also buy this at OFE, maybe $40 I read that esc can handle it. However if you have another Trinity motor you could use a gears box and run 2 motors on one shaft. Then you'd have the torque you need.
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RE: Dumas Chris-Craft 1940 Barrel Back
Thanks for the link and the advice. The boat doesn’t have a cooling system in it. I’ll be adding one for sure. I’m not positive what I’ll do with the motor if I can get the old one running I’ll try that with a cooling system. if not I’ll upgrade to a 700 size motor, unfortunately I don’t think I’ll be able to put a gearbox in the boat the interior room is a bit limited.
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RE: Dumas Chris-Craft 1940 Barrel Back
How heavy is that hull though? That would help figure it out. Maybe a low RPM, high torque motor w/ a rather large prop would ge ti moving nicely? Depending on the weight of course.
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RE: Dumas Chris-Craft 1940 Barrel Back
My experience with Trinity Monster Maxx motors (3 sets, in an E-Maxx) is that they are overpriced junk. They make good power for a very short time and then they are crap. They fry the comm's easily. I can just imagine in a closed hull with no cooling air and no cooling water that you cooked it in no time.
Get a Traxxas Titan motor if you want the same size motor to bolt in. It makes 98% of the power of the Monster Maxx (verified in side by side testing) and will last 1000 times longer. Costs 1/5 as much.
If you run a car motor direct drive in a boat, you must run a very small prop to allow the motor to rev up or otherwise you are just straining the motor and causing it to overheat.
Get a Traxxas Titan motor if you want the same size motor to bolt in. It makes 98% of the power of the Monster Maxx (verified in side by side testing) and will last 1000 times longer. Costs 1/5 as much.
If you run a car motor direct drive in a boat, you must run a very small prop to allow the motor to rev up or otherwise you are just straining the motor and causing it to overheat.
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RE: Dumas Chris-Craft 1940 Barrel Back
After looking at the spec on my speed controller I’m going to have to use a 550 motor if I want to run multipliable batter packs. So I’ll try the Traxxas Titan motor and I’ll also get a water cooling system, pick up some extra props to experiment with.
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RE: Dumas Chris-Craft 1940 Barrel Back
ORIGINAL: Kmot
My experience with Trinity Monster Maxx motors (3 sets, in an E-Maxx) is that they are overpriced junk. They make good power for a very short time and then they are crap. They fry the comm's easily. I can just imagine in a closed hull with no cooling air and no cooling water that you cooked it in no time.
Get a Traxxas Titan motor if you want the same size motor to bolt in. It makes 98% of the power of the Monster Maxx (verified in side by side testing) and will last 1000 times longer. Costs 1/5 as much.
My experience with Trinity Monster Maxx motors (3 sets, in an E-Maxx) is that they are overpriced junk. They make good power for a very short time and then they are crap. They fry the comm's easily. I can just imagine in a closed hull with no cooling air and no cooling water that you cooked it in no time.
Get a Traxxas Titan motor if you want the same size motor to bolt in. It makes 98% of the power of the Monster Maxx (verified in side by side testing) and will last 1000 times longer. Costs 1/5 as much.
If you do swap out motors and have the room, the 700SC is a tough, torquey reliable motor. And you don't need any kind of monster of an esc to run it. On 12 cells it's wears little with a 42-45mm prop.
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RE: Dumas Chris-Craft 1940 Barrel Back
For my setup, I am using a 7 cell battery, Pro-boat waterproof ESC ($40), and a simple Johnson 600 fan cooled motor ($3). The boat can run all day it seems on a 3800mAH battery. The ESC does run hot - - so water cooling may be in order. Speed is decent - but certainly not what it can be.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VISUMnQ_bCI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VISUMnQ_bCI