SV27dayton

Oh it did hit the stinger. It's bent a full 20 deg. The whole outer surface is a 3 ply layer of Birch. 1/64 thick. Everything under that is Balsa. Actually considering how fast it stopped (it hung up on the transom) I think I"m pretty impressed with how it held up. This boat blows over almost every time I'm out. Typical procedure is to bring it in, shake it to see if the packs stayed put, and throw it back in the water. It's stout. I gutted all the power out of it tonight. I need to think about how I'm going to approach the rebuild. I think the transom will recieve some aluminum plates. I may layer the floor with birch too on the inside. Like i said. I need to think.

08gtrking

i know i thought about that thats why i decided to go the thicker route and put 1\32birch ply over 1\8 balsa than 1\32 blasa ad 1\64 birch ply which people normaly do.

SV27dayton

I wonder if you'll have trouble getting the 1/32 stuff to conform to some of the curves on the boat. Just a thought.

08gtrking

it looked really flexable.

785boats

I feel for you man. I've got a smashed boat of my own to fix.
But it is a testament to the strength of your build. Considering the speed it hit the damage could have been a lot worse.
But man that thing was going well. You'll fix it I'm sure.
Chin up.
Paul.

SV27dayton

Thanks man.

SV27dayton

beginning the rebuild of this boat and ofcourse this is an opportunity to change things. Will the CC hydra handle 6S, assuming I have to put a reciever pack on it.

ryan_t888

It's rated for 6s but that's a lot of power for a smaller hull.

Ryan

SV27dayton

and? [>:]

ryan_t888

Many prefer not to max out that ESC on voltage. Castle at one point also did not warranty the ESC at that voltage. I do believe things have changed since. I have run it on a 4s + 2s in series. Worked well for me. Just add rx pack

Ryan

SV27dayton

Well I need to repair the hull which will in all likelihood make the boat somewhat heavier - and ultimately slower (which I can't live with). The jump to 6S would effectively counter that. Also I'm not really looking for alot more. I could go semi conservative on the motor and prop and try to get to 55 or so and keep the temps low. Maybe 60 for a single pass setup and have that as bragging rights.

ryan_t888

I wouldn't worry about weight all that much. I built my hulls out of 3/16" ply with 1/16" sheeting where necessary. Other hulls were built from 1/8" ply and 1/32" depending on overall size. I'm quite sure you went even thinner than this and also built from balsa?

Build heavy to avoid repairs later.

I'd try 4s first to see the speed difference. I don't believe it would be much.

Ryan

SV27dayton

Agreed. Your approach is less costly too. I'll put it back together as is. Just seeing these Geico's running in the 50's has got me thinking. This hull is capable of it. It looks way stable on good water at 45. For what it's worth, ply would not have survived this crash either. I'll likely use more ply in my next build particularly in the transom, but I'm amazed how rigid this boat is.

Norman2

Hi, Attached photos of My scratch built (Shockerman) 34" catamaran and build photos. I run it LSO (Limited spec offshore) and it is an excellenet performer. Won 5 of the last seven races at our local club. Not hard to build, just need patience. Regards
Norman

ryan_t888

Nice. I must admit.

I would prefer to keep the rest of my builds to hulls over 34" in length. I seem to get more use and fun out of the larger hulls as they tend to perform better in a wider range of water conditions.

Ryan

SV27dayton

I agree. That's a clean looking boat. Looks like glass after you painted. What's the power and what type of speeds do you see?