Basstronics

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Thats just odd they told you 4S as they were telling me 3S.

Plus they keep recommending 15C batteries... lol

With my UBEC on the way Im guessing I will be in the water Monday.

Have you torn the Stinger drive down? Im curious to whats inside and how easy its going to be to adapt to a 3/16" prop shaft and Imperial (inch) flex shaft. I could live with it if the drive dog was better AND I knew I wouldnt have bad vibration. But I fear for the worse.

Appears to be 1/4" bore on the drive. So I can simply by the 1/4" X 3/16" Lead Teflon bearings off E Pay. Then I gotta order all the other goodies.

FHHOBBIES

Yeah it is strange but I have the e-mails saying 4S and 30A ESC... I still got the 50A ESC though, not that it helped putting 4S through it. They even sent me a direct link to the Lipo they told me to get!

I have taken the stinger apart and by the looks of it you will need to replace the bushing with the size you want but there is also a small "lip" machined inside the stinger tube that will have to be drilled out with a 3/16 drill bit, very easy to do. I am going to wait for Stevens rewiew of this boat then start changing things, will post everything here.

Man, I am so mad at R2Hobbies![>:][>:][>:] This is my first fiberglass factory boat "just getting into boating" and they are destroying the experiance for me!!! Makes me wanna bail!

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

My first brushless and large boat also.

I had a BBY oval master with a 550 spec motor years back. it was slow... very slow... lol.

Im hoping for a better experience. Heck my mini Rio is faster than my old mono was...lol. sad I know.

Persevere my friend... I am and will also. I dont think this is a boat for a person just wanting to drop gear into and run. Its needs a little help, but with the price tag its worth it.

FHHOBBIES

Yeah I still like the boat, I think it will be fine with a new cable in it, even better with a motor upgrade, my issues now are just with the company I got it from. Just can't wait to get it in the water and start having fun!

ozzie-crawl

somtimes it takes awhile to sort a boat out especialy if you are one of the first persons to get one but in the end it is usally worth the effort. and alot depends on what you want from the boat i have a 32" offshore cat that i wanted to do over 100klmh. i have achieved that but it cost me three speed controllers and two motors .hopfully my boat will be here monday so i maybe able to help abit. iam going to drop a 2950 kv 540 straight in it and see how it goes on 3s and if that is okay try 4s

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

If anyone takes the drive off the boat and takes it apart please take pics!

FHHOBBIES

Mine is apart, will take pics now and post very soon.

FHHOBBIES

Not the best pics but I hope you can see.

FHHOBBIES

So the two "cup" washers hug together on the stinger and gets held in the main unit with the threaded ring. Inside the stinger there is a propshaft bushing that is about 1/4" long or so, this is located at the end of the stinger where the propshaft exits. Further back into the stinger about 1/4" or so there is a "lip" or ring that is part of the stinger... the way it was machined... the I.D. on that is 4mm for the shaft to go through but the pupose of this is to keep the prop shaft from pulling out the back.... as you can see the prop shaft has a large end that will not fit through the 4mm hole. Hope this makes sense! [:-]

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

Is there a white plastic washer on the other side of that prop shaft? I hope so!

So to switch this over to 3/16" shaft doesnt sound hard.

One would just need the new 1/4" X 3/16" ID lead teflon bearings, 3/16" prop shaft, drive dog, nut, cable... Hmmm... I have a super hard time getting parts from my local hobby shop. So i will just order it all up from Tower or similar.

jacob711

there is no need to change it over to 3/16" all you need to run a 3/16" prop is some 3/16" brass tube

FHHOBBIES

Yes there is a washer then the drive dog. I am getting all my stuff from Steven here... http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/ To switch over you will need a new bearing or I may even try and drill mine out with a 3/16 bit and see if that work well. You will also have to drill out the inner ring inside the stinger to 3/16. I will try and play with it tomorrow as I do have a .130 cable here with a 3/16 prop shaft now, it just has a step down to 1/8 for the prop but it will still give me an idea on how to do it. Will keep you posted.

Jacob, you are right, if you want to run a 3/16 prop you can just use a brass tube bushing but we want to get rind of the 4mm stock flex cable and prop shaft and replace it with something standard and good quality.... something that will not give you any vibrations.

ozzie-crawl

it shouldnt be the prop shaft that is the problem it is more likley the cable it self . had similar problem with one of my boats. had new cables made and it took out all vibration. the sqaured end has to be done spot on

FHHOBBIES

Yeap I think that is the problem, I just don't know anyone that can make a square end flex shaft so I am replacing it with something standard and easy to get. I'm sure there are other options here but this is just what I am doing. New cable/propshaft/liner is only $10 so what the heck!

FHHOBBIES

O.K. here is what I have done so far... it turns out that there is two bushings inside the stinger, the "lip" inside that I thought was part of the machined stinger is only a bushing. What I did was drilled out the bushings starting with a small bit and working my way up till the bushings popped out, then I continued to enlarge the inner hole with a 1/4" drill bit.... start at the "ball" end so it comes out straight at the other end, it gets a bit thin here and you might crack the aluminum if you start from the other end. Now keep in mind I used all simple hand tools to do all my work, a hand drill was used to do this part. While drilling the stinger the only hard part was holding it to prevent it from turning, you can wrap the stinger in rubber bands or many layers of duct tape and hold it with pliers, just work slow and make sure you don't scratch up the stinger. Next I cut a length of 1/4" brass tube the same length as the stinger, this is a nice snug fit but can be pressed in by hand, I don't think it needs to be glued but you can CA or Loctite it in if you like. Next I cut a piece of 7/32" brass tube the length of the prop shaft, this is the prop shaft bushing and perfect fit for the 3/16 prop shaft. I also added a 1/8" thick brass ring to one end cut from 1/4" brass tube, glued on with Loctite 603, this will prevent the part from pushing up into the stinger. I also drilled 4 rows of holes in the prop shaft bushing with a drill press, this is not needed but figured it will reduce drag and create little pockets for lube to sit in. This pic shows all the parts....

FHHOBBIES

Here it is all together, very smooth and slop free! Best of all I have a .130 cable and 3/16" propshaft, sweet!

FHHOBBIES

Next step is to replace the stuffing tube in the boat with 7/32 tube and all is well.

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

Now that sounds like a gigantic PITA.

Cant you use the present one?

FHHOBBIES

LOL, well you can try but there is a slight gap in between the teflon tube and the stock tube, may work or may give vibes, I was going to try it but then decided to just do it all right. Seems like the stock brass tube is 1/4". What I started to do to make things easy was to just push the new 7/32 tube into the stock tube because it was a perfect fit but then the stock tube just popped right out.... was not glued in very well at all, so turns out it was a very easy swap![8D] Now keep in mind when ever you need to bend brass tube heat it up till it is red hot then quickly put it under cold water, this will make it very easy to bend by hand without kinking the tube. Just waiting on my new motor and mount not to button her all up!

ozzie-crawl

mine turned up today have already put the 540 in . can tell you it was a just fit the water cooling jacket actully touches the bottom of the hull. good news is the hole slots were real close only opened them up about half a mm. dont know how it is going to go with this size motor as it is huge compared to the out runner. hopfully will find out this weekend

FHHOBBIES

Good luck, keep us posted!

Stinger9d9

I know it may be a bit early in the thread to ask (you know, before the 100th post), but does anyone have any pictures or video showing one of these bargain basement boats actually running?

I keep checking in on this thread, but it seems nobody has had a run they are satisfied enough with to bother posting a pic.

Are people still trying to get these things running properly?

FHHOBBIES

I just got my new motor and parts so I should have mine running soon. Steven over at OSE just started playing with one... http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...7978#post47978 I think his version is not the one with the stinger strut, got it from e-bay. Those small outrunner motors run very hot, not sure how long they would last like that, be interesting to find out. I think the e-bay race spec version is the only way to go with them or even better go right to a 540L motor and good hardware, everybody seems to like the hulls and the way they run. I hope to have mine in the water within a couple days, I will take pics and vid if all goes well. R2Hobbies has a vid of it on their website as well.

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

Would this motor work well?

http://cgi.ebay.com/B28-RC-boat-brus...QQcmdZViewItem

Im still new and trying to figure out what motors make good matches to what hulls, both in terms of size an kV.

Thanks!

FHHOBBIES

I am with you, I am having a hard time matching boat power systems, I am learning though. I can let you know how this motor I got goes soon.