chickendog

My Spurt 3 's servo 's gear is broken and i am having a hard time finding a replacement for it. It is a strange type, with 2 wire for servo's motor and 4 wires for the servo stop and start function disc. My Darter King has the same servo, i would like to get a backup for it too. Hopefully i can find a metal one. Please let me know if you know where i can get a replacement, or if there are other ways. Big thanks

otis721

if you are running an nqd boat, your best bet is to pull that stuff out and go with real hobby stuff. if not send me your address and i will send you some of the brand new nqd junk i have taken out.

chickendog

Hi,

Thanks for replying, it is my plan to run them till the all dead, by then i will have enough to upgrade 8) I will pm you my address. Are they free, i am happy with a reasonable price and willing to for shipping cost (thru paypal).

Thanks

rebuilder

I just got done with an NQD 40" Admiral conversion to hobby grade. I'm running a Traxxas EVX2 esc, Futaba servo and receiver, custom aluminum rudder and 2 7 cell nimh's for 16.8 volts. It really cooks in my opinion! I have a Spurt on the way for the same type of conversion.......16.8v and a Graupner 700 motor! You can have the servo if you'd like.

chickendog

Yes, i will take it also. 8) Having an extra would be nice. I pmed u. I bought myself a Hitec Agrressor 3 channels radio with the reciever but i still need brushless motor and ESC. I love the big boats like Darter King and i will try make make it run as fast as small ones. [>:] I have spent way too much on the batteries, tools and stuff yet i got only crappy boats. Rookie mistakes 8(

rebuilder

I'll send you the servo, i wont ever use it and i like helpin out other rc guys. If i may offer a suggestion..................i was pondering doing a darter king conversion, its the big 45" three motor job i believe, right? Brushless will cost you an arm and a leg.............3 motors + 3 ESC's...$$$$$. I was going to go brushed, big 600's or 700's, and was going to use my EVX esc and hook three motors to it..............i think it can handle three 600's easy and possibly 3 700's. Its rated for up to 180 amps and big 700's pull 30-40. If you want to go brushless, do the spurt, alot less money. BTW, i'm running the stock motors in my Admiral, overvolted them more than double(7.2 to 16.8) and they are running just fine, i tried titans and they got hotter than crap...............i really think these are quality 550's in the NQD's based on my experience, and they're heavy too. Most motors can be overvolted without much issue, especially a big high turn 550.

chickendog

The Darter King will be my summer project. I will finish finals very soon and i will work on it. I like the Darter's hull, much harder than the Spurt's. If i go brushless on the Darter, i will get just 2 motors. I will try to play with the brushed first. I bought a ton of brushed motors from banebots.com but the 700s was out of stock. I thought about overvolt the boats but i was afraid to burn their stock receiver. Do you think they can handle it? I got a few cheapo ones, which i will test overvolting on. Thanks for for the servo. [sm=regular_smile.gif]

rebuilder

If you're talking about the stock electronics you will fry them. But a traxxas evx speed control will handle high voltage (14 cells or 16.8 volts). You cant really do anything with the stock stuff. You'll have to put a functioning rudder on it with a steering servo and of course a radio and transmitter will be needed too. Basically all you will be using from the stock boat is the hull, drivelines and motors if you want a decent boat. You can get a used evx speed control on ebay for 40-50 bucks.

chickendog

I got the radio transmitter, receiever (Hitec Aggressor SRX) and MG996R Metal Gear Digital Torque Servo 2BB MG995 L, and i just bought this one (link below) from ebay for just 18 bucks. I am gonna try to upgrade one of my boat with those, i will let u know [>:]



http://cgi.ebay.com/ESC-140A-Brushed...3A1%7C294%3A50

rebuilder

That speed control is only rated for 7 cells (8.4 volts) you wont be happy with that, you need a 14.4 or 16.6v esc.


here's a speed control like you will need:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Novak-EVX-ESC-14...A1%7C294%3A200

here's a setup with monster motors included:

http://cgi.ebay.com/BRAND-NEW-NOVAK-...A1%7C294%3A200

here's a waterproof 16.8v:

http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Traxxas-16-8...A1%7C294%3A200

chickendog

Guess what, my Darter King stock ESC jsut burned itself when i turned it on today. Smoke came out when i turn pulled the trigger. And I haven't had a chance to test it. Now i have a bunch of DEAD boats. Thanks for the recomendations, but do you think about those two? 8)

BTW, my 12V battery packs when fully charged are read about 13-14V, do you think the 12V ESC below can take them?


http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Traxxas-16-8...3A1%7C294%3A50

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=PRB2314


UPDATED:

I won me the traxxas above Traxxas-16-8-EVX-2-Waterproof-ESC-E-Maxx, this one is for brushed motors only right? It doesn't come with a water cooling plate so i hope i can add one. I currently have only deans connectors, now gotta spend more for the traxxas connector. There is no end in this. [X(]

I have some questions, i see that ESC have two battery connectors, so if i connect two 3000mah 7.2volt batteries to this ESC, will the total input be 7.2v/6000mah or 14.4v/3000mah?

And the total input voltage can be anywhere between 7.2 to 16.8 right?

Also, checkout my wiring plan for the Darter King with 3 brushed 550 motors and the Traxxas-16-8-EVX-2. Let me know what you think.

rebuilder

Cool, now you're talkin..............an EVX2 esc, great! An evx adds the voltage together, not the MAH. It would be 14.4v at 3000 mah.
You will be happy with the voltage of two packs running your motors, your drawing is what i had planned to do, but my plan was to connect both positive output wires together and then run all three motor wires together off of that with same length wires, then the same for the negative. I would like you to keep me infromed, i am very interested in a darter modification.

chickendog

I will upload video and pictures once i got them together.

Do you know if this kit will fit with the EVX 2?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Traxxas-Marine-E...3A1%7C294%3A50

rebuilder

I'm not 100% sure about the water cooling kit, but i dont think it will work, if your ESC says "Marine" on it then it will. It has different cooling fins if its the "waterproof" land version. I have one of each and i'm using the "land" version in my NQD admiral.............i cut a hole in the front deck just in front of the cover and custom made an intake vent which shoots cool outside air inside and then it comes out the back in the exit vents that were for show but i made them functional. Here is what i've done so far, note the steering servo i epoxy'd in the center with the shaft running out the back thru a rubber boot to the rudder. I have never had an epoxy'd servo come off so i'm ok with that system. I'm running two 7 cell nimh batteries which when fully charged peak out at 9.5 volts (hence the 9.5 on the batteries) One more thing........your EVX2 can take 16.8 volt2 (two 7 cell packs) whether its a marine or not...........i think the marine has 14.4 on it but it can take 16.8. heres the rudder i use in the link below

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMNX0&P=7

chickendog

It looks like a nice setup, got a clip of it? For the EVX2 ESC , I guess i will try to get some air in or try to use the water cooling kit. Shouldn't be problem though.

I went on a spending frenzy. [X(] I really went all the way this time. I am gonna upgrade the spurt 3 too. I already got ton of nimh batteries but i want to test some lipo. They should arrived somewhere next week, just when i finished with finals. I still need another radio controller. My credit card company will get nervous.

2 - EC POWER 5000mAh 7.4V 15C LIPO li-po Battery - Heatproof EC POWER 5000mAh 7.4V 15C Hi Rate

1 - HOBBYWING Seaking 90A 180A Brushless ESC RC Boat U

1 Xpower 540/3650-13 Marine Brushless Motor 2724v 50A

1- Thunder t16 Multi charger

1 - Traxxas Marine EVX ESC Water Cooling Kit - i hope it will fix.



UPDATE: Check out the gearbox from the Darter King, each of the motors has a gear box like this. Why they add the gear boxs? Their controller can't handle without them? Well it burned anway. And the "grease" inside is weird. There was mildew growing. One of screws got stuck, i couldn't get the box out of the motor, gonna be a problem. And it look like the plastic gear wont' hold for long. I may just get rid of them. One good thing is that Darter's drive lines, each has two ball bearings whic is nice. They are replaceable when they worn out and it mean less friction on drive line.

sundogz

I use the Seaking esc's and have had no problems with them. Easy to install (integral water cooling) easy to program and can handle more than you mean to put through it. You won't be disappointed.

I'm a fan of NQD products and have 'converted' an Arrow Wind rigger, a Tear Into crackerbox jet boat and am working on a High Wind jet conversion. Sundog

rebuilder

Ok, now the gearbox deal, huh? I didnt realize it had a gearbox. My admiral does not, its direct drive. So now we have to figure out if the gearboxes will work........are they salvagable or are they junk. It looks like a 2:1 gear reduction drive to me. Your options are to either find replacement steel gears that will work OR go direct drive with a low rpm, high torque motor. This is getting a liitle on the tough side, but it can be done. If it was one of my projects it would get done one way or another, i never get beat by a project. You have to figure out by carefully examining the whole drivetrain picture..............where is the weak point, what can i use of the stock components, can direct drive be run, etc.................... My "guess" is you want to run about 10-15,000 rpms at the prop. By the way, are these props surface piercing or completely submerged? I think they are probably submerged. Here are some motors to look into, they are very good....Graupners. If you pull up the site and its german, then click on the british flag.

http://shop.graupner.de/webuerp/servlet/AI?ARTN=1786

http://shop.graupner.de/webuerp/servlet/AI?ARTN=3302

http://shop.graupner.de/webuerp/servlet/AI?ARTN=6317

PS. is your boat running 550/600's or 700's? Either 36mm diam. or 42mm dia?

rebuilder

Cool, isnt the "tear into" a knock-off also, or some name like that? I have seen youtube videos of these little boats hopped way up.......brushless and lipos, really fast. Where can i get one?

chickendog

Good to know that the ESC easy to program. My time should be for building the boat, not tinkering with the manual. I am new to this so i can't really say about NQD products. But so far, i feel their boats have been disappointing. They could have done a lot better. But i guess that is just business, never make anything that last too long.

chickendog

[quote]ORIGINAL: rebuilder




I am gonna play with the stock gear box first. if i remove them i have to make the mounts. The prop are completely submerged. Check it out here at banana link. I got a tons of motors from banebots already so i will just play with them, after that, i may go with two brushless on it 8)


http://www.bananahobby.com/1680.html

rebuilder

I would try them first also, the worst thing that can happen is that they will fail.............then onto step 2. You can also buy premade motor mounts and connector shafts from e hobby, where i got mine. You just epoxy them in and go. REMEMBER>>>> You have to be careful when running new motors of different rpm, you may be running too hot a motor and overload your esc and burn it up. If the boat is sluggish with not much acceleration, it may be too high rpm of a motor..............but you're running a reduction drive.........so you will have to do alot of playing with it. Better to burn up some motors than your esc. Keep me posted.

sundogz

Here are some motors I found on ebay that should work as well as the Graupners at a much lower price:

[link]http://cgi.ebay.com/12-Volt-Powerful-DC-Speed-700-Motor-Long-Shaft_W0QQitemZ130298878958QQihZ003QQcategoryZ2564 QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem[/link]

[link]http://cgi.ebay.com/Johnson-12-Volt-DC-Motor-RPM-16-000-12-VDC-550-Size_W0QQitemZ140313121580QQihZ004QQcategoryZ2564Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem[/link]

NQD: If you think about it, for 40 bucks you get an ABS plastic hull (light, strong - resilient) a rudamentary 2 channel radio, a battery and a charger as well as a 380 or 550 size brushed motor. That is a great deal just for the hull as far as I'm concerned, since I recently bought a just a 21" hull and it cost me 50 bucks alone (see post 3030 in this thread):
[link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6523863/mpage_122/key_/tm.htm[/link] and the last picture below.

I sometimes hear moaning/mumblings from folks that they (NQD boats) are no good. That is not so. Hobby boats made of fiberglass might be more macho and make you think it's not a toy, but it is. They can break into bits just like an ABS boat (avtually, they are more prone to chip on imact where ABS bounces or dents. And they (usually) are heavier, taking more motor, battery, etc to get the job done.

So the NQD boats give folks the opportunity to tear into them and fix it their own way - cheap!. All the time giving you valuable knowledge for future endeavors. Again, I'm a fan. And I also have the radio and guts from a NQD (Arrow Wing) that you (or whoever) are welcome to. [8D] Sdg

rebuilder

Sundogz:

The 700 looks pretty stout..................about 1100 rpm per volt, real torquey i bet. That would be perfect for chickendogs project with direct drive running on 12 cells.

I agree on the NQD's, i love building my own stuff, tearing them completely apart and creating your own.........its a satisfaction that you cant get from an RTR box. Here are some of my "projects"

pic 1 - 1983 Latrax cigarette racer, 28" by a wopping 9" wide, brushless and 3s lipo, carves better than any boat i've ever driven

pic 2 - 1990's Villain IV redone with 16.8v and 21 turn E-maxx titans (stock Marine titans are 23t)

pic 3 - 45" fiberglass dumas vee with dual outboards powered by 4600 brushless castles and twin 3s lipos.

I just fnished a 1980's wellcraft excaliber fitted with 4600 castle brushless and 3s lipo(bought it on e-bay a couple weeks ago)

And my NQD 40" Admiral is about done too.

chickendog

Love the Tear Into & Latrax cigarette! [8D]

I am thinkg about going with two motors 700 instead of three 540? But i already got a like ten 550 brushed already, so i guess i will stick with the 550 for now.
I am looking for ball bearings with inner hole's diameter 4mm and outermost's diameter 8mm, and aluminum tube with 8mm inner dimmeter.
I like the idea having ball bearing on drive line like the current Darter King. I am going to try to do that with my other two boats.

BTW, just invested into two used Airtronics Sanwa MX-3 FM Radio and receievers (I hope they are good since they are Airtronics ) and two motor mount w/ water cooling for 540 550 380.

sundogz

Rebuilder yes, that 700 should have the torque to eliminate a gearbox. Nice looking fleet, by the way! I am also sold on higher voltage (vs 7.4v) being easier on everything. 3s or 9c and up runs cooler and is not so critical on wire sizes and resistance losses = more fun! My BBY OM21, High Wind Bat boat, Tear Into and ABC Kawasaki Jet Ski are all jet drive. Only my 'stretch' ArrowWind rigger is prop (surface) drive. I run mostly rivers and creeks around here which are hard on props! And I like being able to run up on shore. [sm=regular_smile.gif]

Chickendog you can't go wrong with Airtronics. I use a MX3 FHSS 2.4ghz and am impressed with the range (for such a tiny antenna). All of their radios are good bets (Sanwa). The water cooled motor mount is good supplemental cooling, but you'll need a jacket or coil to keep things under control. Consider that on a brushed motor the hot end (where the wires/brushes are) is opposite from where it mounts.