RCU Forums

RCU Forums (https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/)
-   Speed - Electric (https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/speed-electric-109/)
-   -   Valvryn Proboat Horizon Not Working (https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/speed-electric-109/11680794-valvryn-proboat-horizon-not-working.html)

ross100 07-20-2020 12:14 PM

Valvryn Proboat Horizon Not Working
 
Hi all, hope this finds you well.

So I bought the valvryn rtr package that cost £450 a week ago. Iíve had it out on the boating pond twice and unsuccessfully.

It goes not bad for about 20 seconds, (but has never reached top speed, my mad flow goes faster) then just limps back to me at side, spluttering and chugging very slowly. There was a fair amount of water collecting at the nose under the canopy where the white polystyrene block is. I thought must be seal of canopy, but I have used proper marine tape around canopy with bees wax below to stop decals/paint damage.

Can you help me please as itching to get out and up and running. Read in trouble shooting about drive dog is too near stuffing tube or drive shaft needs lubricating; relevant? Not sure how this relates to water getting in from day one.

Warmest Regards.

Ross




Hydro Junkie 07-20-2020 05:30 PM

Grease is used to seal the drive shaft tube so, if there isn't enough, you may take on water when going at slow speeds.
If the boat uses a flex cable drive, it will shrink in length under load. If that's what's happening, you're probably overheating the ESC, resulting in the crawling back to shore.

ross100 07-20-2020 10:41 PM

Aghhh cheers for he reply bud. So I need to take out the drive chain and lubricate it? I knew that the instructions said I had to do this after 30 minutes of run time and I have bought the horizon marine grease. Whatís the flex cable drive?


QUOTE=Hydro Junkie;12619267]Grease is used to seal the drive shaft tube so, if there isn't enough, you may take on water when going at slow speeds.
If the boat uses a flex cable drive, it will shrink in length under load. If that's what's happening, you're probably overheating the ESC, resulting in the crawling back to shore.[/QUOTE]

ross100 07-20-2020 10:52 PM

Cheers
 
Aghhh cheers for he reply bud. So I need to take out the drive chain and lubricate it and this will stop the water going in and give me maximum speed. It always sounded a bit rough and lawn-more like. I knew that the instructions said I had to do this after 30 minutes of run time and I have bought the horizon marine grease. Whatís the flex cable drive and the ESC is the receiver in the boat? Warmest Regards.

Ross


QUOTE=Hydro Junkie;12619267]Gr



Originally Posted by Hydro Junkie (Post 12619267)
Grease is used to seal the drive shaft tube so, if there isn't enough, you may take on water when going at slow speeds.
If the boat uses a flex cable drive, it will shrink in length under load. If that's what's happening, you're probably overheating the ESC, resulting in the crawling back to shore.


Hydro Junkie 07-20-2020 11:13 PM

Okay, I see we have a beginner here, not a problem.
I just found a video of the boat being unboxed and saw how it's set up. Now, let's go over it one part at a time:
The black box that is on the right side with MRX 200 looks like the radio receiver.
The black box under the motor is the Electronic Speed Controller (ESC)
Now, as for the drive shaft, there is no chains involved. The drive shaft is an oversized wire called a flex cable. It goes from the motor to the prop. Since it is nothing more than a twisted wire, when the boat is running, it puts a load on the cable, causing it to get shorter. That makes the drive dog(the silver piece between the prop and the black drive strut) rub on the strut. This makes the motor work harder so it takes more power. I'd bet that the motor taking more power is making the speed controller get hot and it shuts down.
As for water getting it, it's probably not going through the flex shaft tube but, due to the design, it's getting around the cover somehow.
Just out of curiosity, where do you live? It might be more helpful to have an experienced electric boater help you out on this one first hand

ross100 07-20-2020 11:31 PM

Reading Drivetrain Lubrication instructions
 
Im looking at the drive chain lubrication instructions, it says inspect the bearing, where is the bearing and do I need to buy oil and oil this? It says to lubricate the flex shaft up to the drove dog, whatís the drive dog? As well as lubricating the flex shaft (which is the long pole I remove?), it also says to lubricate the drive strut and all moving parts, what does it mean by these last two things? Cheers for helping me.

Ross

ross100 07-20-2020 11:31 PM

Lol
 
Yes total beginner here bud :)

Hydro Junkie 07-20-2020 11:45 PM

I see you read my first version of my second post. I have updated it so, go back and look at it again, it might help answer some questions.

ross100 07-21-2020 01:39 PM

Work on progress chief
 
Hi there, apologies for delay, I can only get 5 posts over 24 hours. Yes I saw your last post thanks, so ordered 5.5mm hex nut remover and 2mm hex Allen key on amazon today. Thought would send you some pics as not entirely sure that I could accurately answer all your questions. Sound ok to you bud? Thought would remove the drive chain shaft is it when stuff arrives from amazon and take it from there. Also bought some rc boat oil for possible future use. Give me your thoughts and warmest regards.

Ross :)


Hydro Junkie 07-21-2020 05:59 PM

Not a problem on the delay.
As for what to do with the boat, let's hold off until you get the tools, then we can look at what adjustments we can make

ross100 07-21-2020 11:29 PM

Perfect!
 
Thank you so much, that would be optimum! Will keep you posted 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻😎

ross100 07-22-2020 05:22 AM

Bummer!
 
So got the 5.5mm hex nut remover today which removes the bolt perfectly off the back behind the propeller. I also received in the post the 2mm hex driver to loosen the screw on the motor coupler but is slightly too big and wonít fit in ☹️☹️☹️☹️☹️☹️☹️

Hydro Junkie 07-22-2020 01:58 PM

Is it possible that set screw in not a metric size? My boats have many screws that are metric and SAE, meaning I have to have both to work on them. You could be dealing with a 1/16 inch, 5/64 inch or 1.5 mm.

ross100 07-22-2020 03:15 PM

Evening
 
Hi there and good evening to you. Thank you for the reply. Iím not too sure to be honest; I tried the 1.5mm and this seems too small and the 2mm hex key (which I think we call them Allen keys) is too big. Just not too sure where to go as donít want to use the 1.5mm and potentially damage and turn the small hexagonal nut 🥜 into a circular configuration.

Hydro Junkie 07-22-2020 03:47 PM


Originally Posted by ross100 (Post 12619708)
Hi there and good evening to you. Thank you for the reply. Iím not too sure to be honest; I tried the 1.5mm and this seems too small and the 2mm hex key (which I think we call them Allen keys) is too big. Just not too sure where to go as donít want to use the 1.5mm and potentially damage and turn the small hexagonal nut 🥜 into a circular configuration.

As I said, they may not be metric. What you may need to do is take the boat to a hardware store and test fit some allen tips/wrenches into the set screw to make sure you get the right size. Something else you need to pick up is some thread locking compound. The orange and blue work best for this as you need to heat up everything to remove a screw secured with the red thread locking compound

ross100 07-22-2020 10:31 PM

Affirmative Captain
 
Ok got you chief, leave that advice with me and will follow it. Will get back to you when Iíve done it and keep you posted. Kindest Regards and stay safe.

Ross 😎👍🏻😎

ross100 07-23-2020 04:25 PM

Model Shop a song for boat return
 
Hi chief, so to keep you posted. I have found nothing to take that screw out in motor coupler and model shop seller have asked for return of boat so take a look. I would have expected the valvryn to work straight from box as itís rtr. Warmest Regards.

Ross

Hydro Junkie 07-23-2020 05:13 PM

I think that's what is referred to as "Customer Service". If they are willing to do the troubleshooting required to get it running properly or, if needed, replace it, I'd keep taking my business to them.
What you have to remember is that all RTRs are mass produced in a factory. They are probably not even given a test run before they are boxed up and shipped so you don't know if you got a good unit or not until you actually try to run it

ross100 07-28-2020 05:37 AM

Latest on Valkryn
 
Hi there, I hope that you are well. So the latest is, sent the boat back last week to The model shop that sold it. They said they have just looked at it, put tape on hull and it looks ok and isnít taking in water. They did offer a refund, but said no need to replace boat. Iím very confused and said really want a new one as donít want a the same boat sent back that is definitely taking a bucket of water in from my end ( meaning about a third of a cup of water) when it would be sent back to me as I sent it to them.

I asked them like you advised if they had checked flex shaft greasing and If it had it been tested out on water up to full throttle running it. Suspect it was just tested in a water container inside. Mmmmmmm, Iím a bit confused. I have the lipos and charger for this boat, so really need another one otherwise having all these would be a bit of a waste. It never got up to full speed when I had it out and my mad flow by joysway was faster, while the Valvryn made a gargling noise and very quickly went into slow stop start mode like the battery was low and it was auto shutting off and ready to be brought ashore.

They are the experts and know much much more than me who is a beginner and am questioning whether Im doing something fundamentally wrong. However, I know for sure that I have followed the instruction manual to a tee, even with buying the bees wax and horizon tape around the hull. My gut feeling is this model they sent isnít right.

I have researched on the net about this Valvryn model and some customers have had no probs at all and others have had a problematic experience. The holes in the runner bits where the self righting mechanism is seems to be a bone of contention as the boat sinks down as soon as you put in water due to this. Gosh I would love to get my Valvryn moving like one on its official horizon video as itís a super cool looking boat.

ross100 07-29-2020 07:30 AM

New boat ordered
 
Hi there, I have ordered a new Valvryn boat from a different supplier now and will pick your brains if thatís ok when it arrives before I take out. My last reply was probably a bit of a raunt, but happier I am getting a refund and a new boat. Warmest Regards.

Ross

Hydro Junkie 07-29-2020 08:00 AM

Your last post showed a frustrated person, nothing more and I totally understand it so no worries

ross100 07-29-2020 08:56 AM

God Bless You
 
Awww, thank you for the kind words. Was still a bit negative, will be more positive as itís about solutions, not personal rants 👍🏻

ross100 07-29-2020 11:37 AM

Progress
 
Ps I also bought a 1.5mm hex remover for that screw beside the motor coupler, as the model shop recommended this. Hopefully this will come tomorrow and partner the 5.5mm hex nut remover that I bought already. Not sure if you think I should still get that flex shaft out and check that itís greased when the new boat arrives? I also bought some high quality rc model boat oil as I saw in instruction booklet that I might need for the bearings in future.

ross100 07-31-2020 03:16 AM

New Valvryn arriving today
 
Yipeeeeee! So excited, feedex should be delivering my new Valvryn today. Ok if I get advice from you about that flex shaft greasing or anything else you think I should do, before I put on the water? Thanks a mill for your continued support.

Ross

Hydro Junkie 07-31-2020 06:55 AM

There are a few things you can do upon unboxing:
1) Since the boat drive uses a twisted cable to drive the prop, make sure there's space between the prop drive dog and the outdrive. If there isn't any or very little space, you will have the same issues as the other boat
2) On the motor output shaft, there is a coupler that connects the cable to the shaft. You need to remove the retaining screw that holds the cable. Pull the cable out, by the prop, and make sure it has some grease on it. If it looks dry, don't try to run it until you can grease the cable. Be sure to NOT get grease on the end where it goes into the coupler or it could spin or, worse yet, come out on the water. Make sure, when you put the retaining screw back in, that you use blue or orange thread lock on the threads
3) Run it on the stand for a couple of minutes before taking it to the pond. If there is any issues, they SHOULD reveal themselves during the test run.
I know I asked you once before, what area do you live in. There may be someone in your area that can help you out if there is an issue that you can't figure out

ross100 07-31-2020 09:36 AM

Iím going to cry!
 
Took my atomic SR85 out on the large pond and thought I was going to loose it. I followed you tube video perfectly and put rudder on, grease it etc. Went not bad for a minute or so, then chugged and stopped and did small circles when throttled. Never looked like getting up to speed is capable off, looked a bit one sided to with two 2S lipos. I want to cry now, that was my first run with out out the box. Sniffff Snifffff!!

I will maybe concentrate on The valvryn first and translate this knowledge onto atomic later. Iím learning fast that rtr out of the box, really doesnít mean ready to run, needs tweaks and checks like you told me. No idea why but the atomic eventually go in a very slow straight line and limp back to me. At least I didnít lose it, still super keen to learn and master the basics. Will have to take out the mad flow next time to boost my confidence. Kindest Regards.

Ross

ps will put my atomic in box now and concentrate on valvryn. At least my mad flow still works fine, and this seems to be as fast as my atomic and valvryn speeds so far. Not to bother, am sure when get the Valvryn set up with your expert guidance, will deliver in performance eventually. Thanks


ross100 07-31-2020 10:04 AM

Pps do all boats take in a certain volume of water into hull or is that because they are not set up properly. Iím super keen to learn.

ross100 07-31-2020 10:40 AM

It gets worse!
 
Just opened the valvryn box, itís got a dent and touch up on right hand side of hull, so has to be sent back, not spoken to this model shop yet, just emailed.

It has light scratches on right hand use of hull to, so not new and I paid £320 for a new one to them. Could we switch to helping me with the atomic, while this is hopefully getting sorted out :(

Hydro Junkie 07-31-2020 11:38 AM

I'm watching a video on the Atomic right now and see some things that I'd change:
1) I see the same issue with this boat as I did with the other, the drive shaft is too tight.
2) Did the 2S battery come with it or did you have to buy them? The video I saw showed a 3S 11.2volt pack. A 3S will be faster than a 2S
3) That plastic prop has got to go. Plastic props tend to flex under load and will break. I know of someone that can sell you a sharpened, polished and balanced replacement that will outperform that plastic one though, unfortunately, it won't be real cheap and, if you get your finger in the way, it could take it off
I was doing a bit of research and found this is, more or less, a toy grade boat. I'm assuming the same with the Valvryn. These are not really set up or made for going real fast. I did see a review video on this boat, which showed an issue with the test boat as well, the link being below. let me know if any of this is what you were seeing.

ross100 07-31-2020 11:55 AM

Hey
 
Hi there, thank you for the reply. I paid think it was £230. Thank you for watching the videos. The propeller on mine Is metal and I had to buy two 2S lipos separate. I actually have a single 4S on order which think will give me more power with weight to power ratio. I watched a 12/13 minute vid on attaching the rudder on you tube.

To be honest, feel really disheartened about getting that defected valvryn today after paying £320. I really hope they donít take the approach tomorrow that I did it as only opened the box at 7.30pm after it arrived at 4pm. Actually feel quite sick.

ross100 07-31-2020 11:58 AM

Atomic
 
The atomic came with all the right hex drivers and that, so will definitely be able to get the flex cable out.

ross100 07-31-2020 12:08 PM

Moray contact
 
Ps do you have a contact that stays in Moray that can could help me

ross100 07-31-2020 12:24 PM

Atomic
 
Ps mine is the atomic SR85 model. Cheers

Hydro Junkie 07-31-2020 12:24 PM


Originally Posted by ross100 (Post 12621481)
Ps do you have a contact that stays in Moray that can could help me

Would I be correct in that being Moray Firth, Scotland?
I would contact Mfr02, here in the forum. He would be a better source of help than I since he lives in Blackpool Lancs. I'm almost half a world away, being on the US northwest coast, just north of Seattle

ross100 08-01-2020 01:31 AM

Atomic SR85
 
Can I send you a pic of my atomic inside as not sure what to loosen between motor and shaft to get flex line out for lubrications. How do I attach a picture if thatís ok? Cheers

Ross

ross100 08-01-2020 01:32 AM

Atomic SR85
 
Can I send you a pic of my atomic inside as not sure what to between motor and shaft to get flex line out for lubrications. How do I attach a picture if thatís ok? Cheers

Ross

Hydro Junkie 08-01-2020 04:14 AM

Actually, it's very easy to get out the shaft. Let me go through it, step by step:
1) find the motor
2) on the motor shaft, there is a piece that's bigger just before the shaft goes through the bottom of the boat
3) rotate the motor until you find the screws in that larger piece on the motor shaft
4) loosen the screw closest to the rear of the boat
5) pull out the drive shaft by the prop
Now that you have it out, give it a good coating of a water proof grease, preferably lithium based. Be sure not to get any on the area that goes into the bigger part on the motor shaft. In fact, you may want to leave the last couple of cm bare of grease
Once you have that completed, you can re-install the shaft. One other thing you COULD do, while the shaft is out, is to drill a small hole(maybe 2mm or slightly larger, if there isn't one already) through the side of the strut(the part just ahead of the prop and drive dog when the shaft is installed) so you can inject grease into it between runs
When you have the shaft back into the boat, you will need to tighten the screw that holds the shaft in. Before you do so, take it totally out, coat it with thread lock(orange or blue only, not red as red requires heat to get the screw out later)
When you're tightening the screw, make sure to leave a small gap between the strut and drive dog. This needs to be at least 2-3mm, so that the shaft won't bind when running. If it binds, remove the screw again, recoat with thread lock and reinstall, leaving a larger gap each time until it doesn't bind. You do need to be careful as if you go too far, the shaft won't have enough length left inside the coupler to hold it and you could lose the prop and shaft to the bottom of the pond. For example, on my sport 20 hydroplane, it has a .187 inch(4.75mm) shaft, similar to what your boat has except larger. To allow for it to "shrink" under load, I leave a 5mm space between the drive dog and the strut. This prevents the shaft from binding. I'll try to get a picture of it later today so you can look at it

ross100 08-03-2020 10:08 AM

Just canít get flex cable out atomic
 
Hey, hope that you are qwell. Can you give me an email address and will send a pic of inside the atomic and you can tell me what to loosen. Cheers

Ross 🙂

Hydro Junkie 08-03-2020 10:59 AM

As I said in a previous post;
1) look at the motor. coming out of the motor is a shaft that points down and rearward
2) between the motor and the back of the inner compartment is a metal fitting with two socket head screws
3) remove the lower screw
4) pull the shaft out by the prop
5) apply grease to most of the shaft, leave the top end(opposite end from the prop free of grease so it can't slip when reinstalled
6) slide the shaft back in to the boat, leaving a gap between the outdrive(the black plastic thing that turns back and forth at the back of the boat) and the drive dog) the silver thing that's in front of the prop
7) apply thread lock(orange or blue colored) to the threads of the screw and reinstall it, make sure it's snug but not smashing the shaft.
If you watch the following video, pause it at 1:02, it will clearly show the metal fitting and socket head screws
Something else to check is the clear tubing that goes to the motor. Make sure it's not damaged as they supply water to the motor to keep it cool. If they are damaged, it will quickly flood the boat with water, ruining the receiver and speed controller

ross100 08-03-2020 12:22 PM

Cheers bud
 
Hey bud, cheers for all your time and help. The valvryn has been posted back as it had the defect. Will defo follow all your advice when it arrives. Is was my green atomic SR85 I was asking about, you couldnít tell us how to remove the flex tube from that.

Really sorry for confusing you and the mix up in my last post.

Ross


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 09:44 AM.


Copyright © 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.