Sdemit, who are you asking, Vilante or me?

While we're here....

Things have been at a stand still with Covid and work getting on top of my time. I did touch the boat last night for the first time in a long time, so looking to make some progress again.

I heard that. Between taking care of things that I'd normally do during the week on the weekends and working extra shifts, I'm in the same "state of build". I'm hoping to get something done this weekend on my boats for the first time in a couple of months

It's definitely a difficult time.

I'm getting closer to doing the outside. There are some areas that are going to need filling and fixing etc, should I epoxy seal first, then bog, then paint? Or bog then seal?

Okay, clarify for me what you mean by "bog"?
My normal way of finishing a hull is to:

1. apply a thin layer of epoxy and scuff sand after it's cured
2. spray with a thin coat of primer and sand until you get to bare epoxy
3. fill the low spots with epoxy mixed with micro balloons and sand smooth
4. apply another thin coat of primer
5. sand off primer to show any remaining low spots
6. fill any remaining low spots, repeat steps 4 and 5 until surface meets with your approval
7. spray with a filling primer and paint

That might be an Aussie term. I mean auto body filler, for the low areas or gaps etc.

Id think about tying the rails into the transom with "L" brackets or a piece of 1/8 inch thick aluminium bent into a "u" shape. That is better because the rudder would bolt through it and at the corners bolt to the rails on each side. If you strike something u rather the rudder, give way and snap the piviot positioning screw that locks the rudder angle than the ass of the boat being torn out. It still may happen but at least you tried.

Thanks Clugh.

Would an "L" bracket work? IIRC, there isn't a bulkhead running the length of the hull where the rudder bracket is mounted so an "L" bracket won't work in the configuration described. For an "L" bracket to work, you would need to attach it to the transom and hull bottom and run it at least a cm past where the screws go through the transom

When I have enough post I can show you what I mean.

The problem with using "L" brackets is they need to have something to fasten to. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...0ffa901b27.jpg
In the picture above, there is a stringer and nothing else to fasten a bracket to. This means that to install an "L" bracket, it would have to be fastened to the transom and the hull bottom. The picture below shows a pair of "L" brackets holding in the strut:
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...f50411ba5d.jpg

Ill pm you photos of exactly what I mean. It's no contest. Maybe in 3 more post I'll be fully vetted. Your boat construction is pretty typical in the rear so i see no issue with doing it. U did it already with triangular stock you have pushed in the corners . The idea tracks long the same train of thought. It strengthens the transom where the rudder is mounted. Of course you don't use large bulky L brackets from a strut. A piece of 1/8th inch aluminum bent into a wide "U" will tie it all in together.

Again, there is only the bottom and transom to mount your bracket to. His boat DOES NOT HAVE ANY LENGTHWISE FRAMES BETWEEN THE SPONSON INSIDES AFT OF THE MOTOR!!!! This is shown very clearly in pictures posted at post 131

It doesn't matter if you type in big letters. The photo of his boat will accept the idea with no issue .. Its a 10/th scale Finlay hydro what so unique about it I own 3 including a 1/8th scale and there is not a boat alive that cant have the transom area reinforced in a similar manner. It's only impossible if thats what you tell yourself but it doesn't limit others. From my eyeballs Its only about 100 ways to go about it.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...febce63ace.jpg

I didn't see your images last time sorry. I've already strengthened the transom substantially and planned to use a metal plate inside the boat further strengthen the rudder mount.

Finally getting some time to work on it. Not far off giving the outside a coat of epoxy. Is it normal to coat it and wipe it off or leave it? And is the epoxy usually thinned for this process?

How are the rear wings usually mounted? That's the next job along with the cowl.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...1be2f971bf.jpg

10-4!
Thats looking really really good btw....:cool:
I use aluminum tabs with the mounting holes bolted into the rail the I slot the deck skins to accept them. I then use nylon screws of really small metals one that I hope sheer off in a blow over etc. If you've already glued the deck down u may have to measure and slot them blindly and glue mounting tabs in place. Even though it looks nice id round those sharp edges on the deck. The aero is better especially if it gets loose. Those sharp edge make the air chose a side promoting adverse aero when it gets squirrely. Unless you need it perfectly scale you may as well incorporate the newer sponson top deck aero into it for a more stable ride. .Look at a modern hydro in this area and you will see what I mean.

Thanks Clugh!

So you're looking for something metal protruding from the deck vertically and then you bolt horizontally thought that?

What about the top section of the wing? Just a rod through and some glue?

Does anyone know where to get the tie rods or what they'd be called? I'm sure I could get something from an RC plane but I haven't been able to find anything.

Yes...

This could be as basic or elaborate as you want. In the past my vertical stabilizers were made from a ply fiberglass sandwiched and cured in a vacuum bag. I sketched on the flat wing cores lines to follow and shaped them to the final symmetrical airfoil with the belt sander. They are really strong. Ive seen wings with foam cores like plans from a dumas circus . It all depends on your goals. Id think the wings could be make direct from things fiberglass sheet etc. The horizonal I've always wanted servo operated but never went there. My version of this boat may get those active surfaces and the optional front canard you see in the plans soon enuf\. I've changes the profile of my wings to more swept because the paks are so unattractive. Have you rolled your turbine stack yet? You also know the boat can be the Tosti Asti, right?

OK great. I'll make up the wings first and that will inform the mounts.

I think I'm going to have a go at 3D printing them and seeing what they weigh.

I noticed you can make the Tosit and the 7-11 with the same base, but my front is already made to suit the Pay design so I think I'll have to stick with it. You're right, the cowl is not the prettiest.

Thanks again for your advice.

Maybe you can print them like a PLA plane wing. Hollow and light. You don't want it too thin but it would make them a bit lighter.

Hows it is coming along?

Well I've done lots of sealing and sanding and I've got the mounts for the wing mocked up. Need to find some time to blue them in etc.

I've spent a lot of time modelling up the cowl, which I'm printing a test of now. I am learning the CAD software at the same time. I've learned a lot, but I'll need to start over to get it right, so that I can make it hollow etc.

It will have to be printed in 4 sections, this is the first. Fingers crossed it translates to the model :)

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...54cb5230a2.jpg

Use the print as a plug and make a fiberglass epoxy cowl. All you really will need is a vacuum bag. Im enjoying 3d printing as well. For you wings if you are drawing in fusion use a "shell" feature after finishing the sketch to hollow them but make the wall thick enough that its not too fragile. If you slow you print speed and make sure the PLA is totally dry the quality of your print will improve.

Yeah that was the original intention though I baulked at the price of the materials. I will have to finish it and paint it either way, so might see what it weights, thought I think it's going to be lots once it's got some epoxy and paint on it.