1/8 scale hydro to electric conversion help
 

I have several scale hydros and one rigger and wanted to convert to electric. Can someone point me in the correct direction? Enjoyed nitro until everyone quit running their boats and I was stuck with hangar queens!!!! They have been sitting for too long and they need to see water again.

I'm surprised you haven't gotten help from boaters in your area. There has to be someone that runs electric boats that could help you out.
So, with that said, I'm going to refer you to the R/C Unlimiteds electric rule book as it gives a rough list of parts you will need:
Approved motors:
i. NEU 1527 1.5Y 850KV
ii. HET Typhoon 700-98 840KV
iii. Turnigy SK3-3994 850KV
iv. TP 4040 10Y 830KV
v. TP 4060 6Y 860KV
Motors not on the approved motor list:
i. Shall not exceed the manufacturer’s KV rating of 860 KV. 1. If the motor case is not clearly marked with the manufacturer’s KV rating, the owner should be prepared to provide documentation of the maximum KV rating of the motor.
ii. May not have a motor case exceeding the following dimensions: 1. Length: 105 mm (4.134 in.), this includes any bearing protrusions. 2. Diameter: 42 mm (1.654 in.).

Electronic Speed Controls (ESC)
a. Any ESC may be used as long as it is rated to a minimum 130 Amps and rated to handle a minimum of 8s battery configuration.
b. Anti-spark resistors are advised on all speed controllers.

Batteries
a. A maximum capacity of 8S Lithium Polymer (LiPo) batteries are approved. Only LiPo batteries with a cell rating of 4.20 or less volts per cell are approved. Maximum charged voltage is 33.84 volts.
b. LiHV batteries with per cell capacities to 4.35 volts or higher are not approved.

That covers the parts. As far as how to install them, I would check to see where the boats are balanced now and then remove the radio receiver and all of the nitro system parts but leave the drive shaft, stuffing box and strut installed. I would install the electric motor so that it lines up with the drive shaft first. Next, install the receiver and ESC so that they are close to the servos and motor since long wires are not wanted due to resistance and heat issues. Your next task will be to figure out where to install the battery pack(s) to rebalance the boat to its previous balance point. You will need to install a water-resistant cover over the electrics so they won't get wet, or you will have problems with the radio gear and ESC. After that, you're ready to take the boat to the pond and see how it runs. If it needs rebalancing, that can be done by moving the battery packs as needed.
Good Luck

Thanks Hydro....Don't have any boaters in area to ask. I am attempting to covert a few from nitro to go have some fun and see if I can generate interest in the nice ponds in our area. We had several nitro runners but sadly all have either moved away or lost interest. I just hated to see my nicely painted boats just collecting dust. I have been flying turbine jets for a long time and even thought about turbine power for hydro

I had a thought. Feel like coming up to the Seattle area in July? You would need to bring a boat or two along for this one. We have an event you might be interested in:
The Northwest Scale Championship race returns in 2022 on July 22, 23, 24

Location-Marysville, Washington at Gissberg Twin Lakes Park (north lake)

Classes- 1/8th scale nitro and electric, Gas Scale, 1/7th and 1/10th scale electric, semi-scale Thunderboats
(Electric boats must be configured to NAMBA specifications)

This is a great opportunity for a scale boating vacation! In 10 days, scale racers can compete in the NW Scale Championship Race, then head to Tri-Cities for the RC Unlimiteds Columbia Cup and the H1 Unlimiteds Race. Also make a visit to the Hydroplane and Raceboat Museum in Kent, just south of Seattle.

Many of the details are still being settled so check back for emerging information on pre-registration and fees, hotels and RV accommodations.

Participants must have valid NAMBA membership prior to the event.

NAMBA safety rules will be in effect.

Questions? email Mike Cathey at [email protected]

I know there will be several guys with electric scales you could talk to that could help you out with your conversions, if you would be able to hold off on starting the work. Just a thought since I'll be helping set the event up and plan to be racing since I live only 5-6 miles from the race site:rolleyes:
If you really want to make a trip out of it, as shown above, there's the Columbia Cup July 29-31 in Tri-Cities (eastern Washington) and the following weekend is Seafair (August 5-7). We will have R/C racing the first two weekends and full-sized hydroplane racing the second two weekends. If you're interested, let me know and I'll keep you posted with any updates as they come up

Was just playing around a bit and found it's an 8-hour flight or 3 day drive each way. If it was me, I'd drive. Three 12-hour days on the road and pulling my camp trailer isn't a big deal, for me anyway. Hell, driving might be cheaper than flying and you could bring everything you need with you. Just a thought, if you want to come north

Hydro...Thanks for the offer but not quite ready for that yet.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...93954d9490.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...c87205c3e9.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...f630d1d9b6.jpg
Here is the sad parking spot for some of my boats. Top storage shelf ouch!!!!!

Good looking boats. Just out of curiosity, are they Dumas kit builds? The Circus cowl set up tells me they are.

The circus is. The Miller American is all fiberglass. The SGX is a kit build

That means the Miller would be a better boat to start with, depending on how much it was sealed up inside. If you have access to under the deck, you can locate the batteries there fairly easily. The rest would probably be just remove and replace. The Circus, on the other hand, could be more work. Is the fuel tank inside the cockpit area?

That is what I was thinking as well. I just did not know how easy or hard the component changes would be for engine. I did see one done on youtube by guy and it did not appear too difficult

Sorry missed that question. The tank is in cockpit area on the Circus

Hydro

Is there a web site or store you order your parts from. What radio are you using for surface?

I get parts from several sources, as well as make my own. Here's a few places I deal with:
Speedmaster for running gear
Stuart Barr for CMB engines and pipes
Newton Marine for plans
R/C Boat Company for fiberglass parts
Props-4-U for props
Aeromarine for running gear
Aircraft Spruce for stick stock (they also carry Finnish birch plywood of varying thicknesses)

As far as radios go, I presently run Futaba 4PLS pistol grip style radios. While that model is no longer manufactured, they have more capable pistol grip radios available

Thanks for all the information!!

Hydro

Here is the rudder on my Miller American. Can you tell what it is? I need to get rudder with twin water pckups for my electric conversion. Are they standard?https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...f023a6e023.jpg

Thanks for all your help. I am about ready to get everything ordered

I would know that set up anywhere since I have used it myself. It's a Speedmaster set up and will make your change over easy, if you really need it. Personally, I would stick with one water line and run it through everything, starting with the ESC. If you really want a double pick-up rudder and twin water systems, here you go:
RUDDERS (rossisales.com)

Thanks so much. I didn't know it was an option to run single water pickup. I'm looking at 850KV set up with 150 amp water cooled speed control. If you think the single line will work I will try that first!

Thanks again for all your advise and help.

What you have to remember is that you need to be able to see the water being dumped over the side of the boat. Most boaters I know of have that "dump" on the left side of the boat so they can see the water coming out while the boat is running closer to shore on the front stretch. When you run twin water lines, you need to put them in different areas so you can verify that you're getting water through both lines. Now comes the issue of being able to spot more than one outlet to verify you're getting water out of both. I'm sure you can see where I'm going with this

That makes total sense. Yes, my water outlet is on left side where it is easy to see if water is coming out

Well I completed the conversion to electric. Only thing is to finalize CG and cut floatation for battery pockets

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...6cd6a6c857.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...f76d94780e.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...0744d668b8.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...59cf0ee395.jpg

Boat looks good, are you running 8s or 10s, do you plan on a sub hatch or taping your cowl? Those Castle connectors are great high amp conductors way over your esc but a royal pain to unplug. My 1/8 scales are 10s minimum 240amp esc same 850 kv.

Yes the connectors are a pain. I'm running 8s and yes taping the seam in the front till just behind cockpit. Only four runs so far still trimming out everthing!

Yes the connectors are a pain. I'm running 8s and yes taping the seam in the front till just behind cockpit. Only four runs so far still trimming out everthing!

Well ended up with batteries where the ESC was. Moved ESC to where battery was. Checking turn fin and rudder alignment on recommendation from Scott Meyers.....Then back to the pond to check performance again!!

Well I'm a big dummy. After last set up runs I left my transmitter at the pond. Went back but gone. I ordered another one and hopefully can complete set up runs next week