Leaky SV cure
 

I haven't ran my boat yet, but it takes on a bit of water (1tsp in 5 minutes) in the tub. It's coming in from the prop shaft tube or strut mount bolt holes. Can't really tell because of the wood transom stiffener. Has anyone else had this happen? Should I pull the flex cable and strut to reseal? I tried some hot glue on from the inside around the shaft tube, but there's really no way to get at the point of entry due to the wodd in the transom as the leak is behind it.

RE: Leaky SV cure
 

I had the same problem last week. Couldn't figure out where it was coming from. Most likely, it's coming from the bolt holes through the transom. Mine was leaking through the port trim tab holes. Because I place wedges (made from plastic electrical wire ties; the 2" tips from the really small ones that measure 1/64" width) to move the trim tabs positive or negative, water found its way through. I got some quick gasket maker and applied a small bead around the holes, then put the hardware back on. I ran her today at 36.4 mph and not a drop, 3 runs. I didn't even have a dry run like that since I got her out of the box. I still leave the 2 small sponges on the bottom, on each side of the stuff tube, against the transom just in case.

Don't put too much grease on the flex shaft or it will find its way up to the coupler and spray all over the place. Just a real small bead along the length of the shaft, leaving the first 1" or so free (the end that goes into the coupler). Too much will also rob you performance wise.

RE: Leaky SV cure
 

I didn't see any coming in from the tab holes. I di, in fact, remove the port tab yesterday. I actually removed the flex shaft for the first time. I was kind of concerned about breaking the coupler, or something since I had never done it before. Was I did that, I remove the strut and strut braket. There was still a bit of water behind the bracket, so I out a small bead around the tube where it exits the transom and a thin layer on the backside of the strut bracket along with some blue loctite on the hardware and remouned it. I did grease the cablle with some Prather cable grease, but may have put a bit too much. I did, however stop the grease about an inch short as you mentioned because I coould tell it had never had grease on that portion and saw no use for it there, anyway. I'll float it again tomorrow after everything sets up and see how it works out. I might pull the cable again and wipe it down a little, too.

Meanwhile, back at the farm, I'm still awaiting a prop......

P.S. Have you ever tried to adjust the yoke that attaches to the rudder. You know, the piece that snaps on the ball and threads on the steering arm. I tried to remove mine aong with the radio box and I couldn't budge it. I was afraid I was going to twist/snap the steering rod.

RE: Leaky SV cure
 

I've always used ball link pliers because you can really mess something up if you're not careful. But yes, it very hard to pull off. You don't have to pull the radio box everytime you grease the flex shaft! Just get those wrenches and loosen the coupler.

After your first day at the lake and you have your rudder trim set with the radio, put a tiny notch on the ball link, next to where the rod screw is, so if you have to unscrew and pull the rod through, you'll now where to screw it back into.

Also, the copper ring that is visible from the top of the rudder, that provides a tight fit for the hinge.........make sure it isn't loose. If you wiggle the rudder from side to side (not turning left and right) and it's loose, it will work its way up. If so, pull it out and put a very small dab of locktite on the outside of the copper ring and insert back into the rudder. Mine would work its way up after one run and luckily I caught it. Use a small drop of oil for the inside (where the rudder hinge is inside the copper tube).

RE: Leaky SV cure
 

so if you have to unscrew and pull the rod through, you'll now where to screw it back into

That's just it. I can't turn the "ball link" on the rod. It's frickin tight...or froze. Have you ever adjusted/removed yours?

RE: Leaky SV cure
 

I used needle nose pliers (with rubber tubing to protect the metal) to hold the rod and then used a micro screw driver to act as a lever to twist that puppy off. I thought you meant the actual ball link.

Also, check out this http://www.rocketcityracing.com/ for some nice screw adjustable trim tabs. It took forever to find, but I finally did. Just ordered the 1.5"x1"x5/8" ones (ON THE SECOND PAGE of the trim tabs). I don't want to wait until the ones come in from Offshore.

RE: Leaky SV cure
 

I'll try that next time I feel the need to pull it. I checked out the adjustable trim tabs. Let me know how the install goes. Did you get the bolt spacing figured out before? Will you have to drill, slot the hole in them?

Oh, about the leak. After sealing up the strut/bracket, I still had a slight leak. This time I could tell it was coming from the starboard side only, so I imagine I stopped some of it, bt not all. I pulled all the screws on the rudder bracket, trim tab and turn fin brackets and dabbed them with a bit of silicone. Benn floating now for 0 minutes and no more leak. YeeHaw!

RE: Leaky SV cure
 

No prob. Seems all the spacing are either 11/16 or 5/8, so I might have to slot one side.