RE: Custom Boat
 

Brushless motors are 3 phase AC motors. It would require a standard brushless ESC. Where do you see this brushed ESC as he does not have any pics I can see?

Ryan

RE: Custom Boat
 

Yes, but that motor looks like an AC fan motor. If it only has 2 leads, then a 'brushless esc' won't work with it. The 3rd picture down 'servo and speed control' looks to be a mechanical/resistor type control.

RE: Custom Boat
 

He has not posted any pics. The thread is 2 years old. His post is a day old.

Ryan

RE: Custom Boat
 

This is so weird that my thread has kicked back into life like this again....funny thing is in the last month i have pulled the boat out of storage and have actually started working on it again. Ill try get some up to date pictures for everyone.

Basically the status of the boat is currently running as of about 1 week ago...
Yes this thread is ancient and your probably wondering what took so long to do anything to the boat....i have been waiting for the right peice to join the motor to the shaft, and my dad only recently just custom made it for me.

The boat has had 1 test run in a pool, and was quite quick so i couldnt give it full throttle so im quite keen to try it in a lake, reason why i havent as yet is because ive been busy making a top cover to protect the boat from taking in water.....

When i mentioned AC i actually meant Air Conditioning Blower Motor (300W) from a car. Its currently running off a 12v Motorbike battery, smallest one i could find. The speed control is a manual / resistor one as mentioned below by sundogz

Ill get some pics up again soon.

RE: Custom Boat
 

Wow you got me there, Ryan! - I didn't look at the date [:o] Jaymo was talking about using an AC motor, and dvs-626 pics showed one. I guess you can figure out the rest. Air conditioner motor (AC) LOL!

RE: Custom Boat
 

Ok so heres the latest update with pictures provided...

Here is a shot of the motor mounted in the boat.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1.../IMAGE_012.jpg

Heres a shot of the boat with all covers off and the two bulkheads inserted.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1.../IMAGE_011.jpg

Heres a shot of the boat with the deck on (You will see i inserted a fan, this fan blows directly over the resistor from the manual speed control as this gets hot at times and also sits on top of the motor.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1.../IMAGE_016.jpg

Construction of the cabin is underway as you can see in this picture
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1.../IMAGE_020.jpg

Getting a little further in this picture (Current picture as of tonight this is how the boat looks)
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1.../IMAGE_023.jpg

Any comments are welcome.

RE: Custom Boat
 

Nice work on the deck. watch your vertical CG. I know you have that battery in there but I don't want to see this thing roll over. Looks good.

RE: Custom Boat
 

Thanks.
The battery just in case anyone is interested will be located behind the bulkhead thats sitting behind the motor, just noticed none of the pictures had that in there, it has been permanently fixed in position.

RE: Custom Boat
 

I used the same style setup for my first ever boat build.  I had no idea what I was doing, but got a hold of two electric motors and two shafts with props threaded onto the end.  So I bent some 1/4" plywood into shape and wired up a modded (took out the ball bering and spring so it would move smoothly) 5 position fan switch (from a car ac system) and two 6V led acid gel batteries.<div>
</div><div>I used electrical wire sheathing to couple the shafts.  Got it out on the lake, made one (very slow, props where way over sized and submerged) pass and in the turn, the motors reved up and the boat stopped moving.  It had melted/torn my shaft connectors.  hahaha.  I gave up and bought a Villain IV RTR and never looked back.</div><div>
</div><div>I always have considered re visiting the 5 position switch with the resistors idea, you can run pretty big motors (brushed) with allot of current draw that way!</div><div>
</div><div>p.s.</div><div>looks great!</div>

RE: Custom Boat
 

Some more work done to the Boat....
Almost there now....All the cabin is now built, need to paint the boat now.

After assembling the Front window.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1.../IMAGE_024.jpg

Side Shot With Cabin Roof attached
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1.../IMAGE_028.jpg

Front Shot With Cabin Rood attached
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1.../IMAGE_027.jpg

Angles Shot
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1.../IMAGE_026.jpg

Taken in my room just 1 minute ago...small addition you will see on the top of the boat and also some more detailed work on the side of the cabin.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1.../IMAGE_029.jpg

Thats all for now...ill post back when i have completed some more

Oh and i have taken the rubber off the side temporarily...

RE: Custom Boat
 

This is just an opinion (we all got 'em!) but I'd remove the overhang on the roof. It would look more trim that way and less prone to wind bucking. Lookin' good!

RE: Custom Boat
 

i need some guidance on something. I dont quite have the knowledge to figure this one out.
So i gave the boat a try on the weekend, it works well...was a little slower than i expected but thats ok...took in a little water but its cause its not 100% sealed off yet so i expected that as well....

so you all know so far that im curruntly running a 12v Battery powering a 12v 300Watt Air Conditioner Blower motor (from a commodore)
the motor is running through a Tamiya 3 Step Speed Controller (Manual Speed Controller) which is moved by Sanwa Servo's and controlled by a Futaba Remote control.

Now heres my question...i am fully aware that my motor is 12V however i have run 24v through the motor before (temporarily bypassing the speed control) and naturally it runs at double the speed...obviously this reduces the life of the motor and could also cause it to fail but for the price of $10 from the wreckers im willing to risk that to get more speed....now my dilemma is that the 24v from the battery will need to run through the speed controller first which may be an issue. The speed controller itself is run of 4 AA batteries although i believe the Battery power does run through the speed controller and into the ceramic resistor. Now i have limited knowledge of these ceramic resistors but from what i understand the slower you go, the more heat builds up in them because they are taking in the power from the battery and distributing a small amount to the motor in order to give it a low speed, and when in full throttle they distribute all the power to the motor and there is no load on the resistor.

So is there anything i can do to make sure i dont blow the speed controller? are there different ratings on these ceramic resistors? can i put a bigger one on to cater for the more power to the motor? Any help would be great, its got me puzzled at the moment.

RE: Custom Boat
 

I would say, you should be fine.  The way most mechanical speed controls work is. . . .<div>
</div><div>Your receiver (rx) is hooked up to the 4 AA batteries.  These also control your servos to give you mechanical movement.</div><div>
</div><div>the speed controller it nothing more the a 3 position switch.</div><div>Position 1 = slowest.  Power is routed from the motor battery through usually 1 resistor.</div><div>Position 2 = medium. Power is routed from the motor battery through both (2) resistors wired in parallel, allowing half the resistance and twice the wattage</div><div>Position 3 = fastest. Power is routed from the motor battery straight to the motor, bypassing the resistors.</div><div>
</div><div>So what does this mean?  You build heat is the resistors when moving at slow speeds, but not at high speeds.</div><div>
</div><div>If you want to make damn sure, you can wire up you boat at 24V and test the voltage at the motor in the slow and medium speeds.  You can then determine the amperage you can draw safely and compare that to the ratings of the resistors.</div>

RE: Custom Boat
 

Markings on the resistors look like this. . .<div>
</div><div>http://speakerbug.com.au/shop/images...6ohm_small.jpg
</div><div>
</div><div>Sorry for the huge picture. . .   The first number 10W is the Watts rating, thats the one that will determine if the resistor will burn up or not.</div><div>
</div><div>with this resistor being used in a mechanical speed controller, and low speed you can draw a max of 10 Watts and medium speed, because you are using 2 in parallel you can draw a max of 20 Watts.</div><div>
</div><div>Hope this helps.</div><div>
</div><div>All in all, just give it a try, make short slow passes, and check to see the resistors are not about to set fire to something.  You can always just giver wide open most of the time as well.  You never no how far you can push something till it breaks!  Have fun!</div>

RE: Custom Boat
 

So in the last post you posted up a picture of the Ceramic resistor....if thats the rating of my current ceramic resistor....and im running 24v (made up of 4x 6V batteries in series)
Would my ceramic resistor be fine?
If not can i up the size of the ceramic resistor to cope with the higher load?

Also i should mention if you havent seen yet i will be running a fan just above the Ceramic resistor to keep drawing the air in from above hopefully to keep it a little cooler but im not sure how much of a difference that would make.....actually in regards to this fan...its a small 12v computer fan...if im running 4x 6V batteries as stated above....can i connect the fan to the last 2 6V batteries in the series to get 12V to this fan only? or will this still produce the full 24V?

Thanks again you have been a great help.

RE: Custom Boat
 

the key ratting of the resistors for power handling is the Watts rating.  If you buy some more, you will want to keep the same Ohms (horse shoe) rating to maintain the same speed differences.<div>
</div><div>Yes, you can connect your CPU fan to just two of the batteries to get 12 volts.</div><div>
</div><div>Like I said before, I would guess you would be alright to run at 24V.  You will only get half the runtime you did before in that configuration.</div>

RE: Custom Boat
 

If you start blowing your resistors or are having any kind of difficulty with them, it may be better to save up and get an ESC (Electronic Speed Control) as it will give you specs on what it can handle, then you know!<div>
</div><div>Most of the time with speed controllers you are looking at the max handling, so wide open throttle.  With a mechanical speed controlling you are limited at low throttle, not at max throttle.</div><div>
</div><div>honesty, I don't see there being any issues because at low speed you are not demanding allot of power.  The motor will just kind of take what it can get.</div>

RE: Custom Boat
 

here is an attempt at wireing diagram for your batteries.<div></div><div>|- this is one of your batteries</div><div>*connect both your fan and motor negative wires here</div><div>~ Add fan positive here with switch</div><div>+ connect positive motor wire here through speed control</div><div></div><div></div><div> <span style="font-size: -webkit-xxx-large;"> </span><b size="7"><span style="font-size: -webkit-xxx-large;">* |- |- ~ |- |- +</span>[/b]</div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>I hope that made sense.</div>

RE: Custom Boat
 

Makes perfect sense thanks for that, as soon as im done with the deck and cabin ill get stuck into wiring thos batteries up and give it a shot. Its probably a good thing that i tries it all running at 12V anyway to get the drift of ghow the boat works and where it all sits in the water...now that i know i can up the speed and have a little bit more fun with it. Ill post back with my results.

RE: Custom Boat
 

Does anyone know how to program an ESC 50A made by G&amp;C Hobby. I purchased an F4 from Nitroplanes, and I have had nothing but trouble trying to get it off the ground. The ESC burt out 3 sec. after starting the motor,
I sent for new ESC, and motor, ptu them in and not enough power to taxi, andthe elevators were sticking up in take-off position. Agian I sent for new motor, transmitter, and servos just incase they were bad. Recieved parts back put them in and know the ESC is not putting enough watts out only getting 130w, toke to friends house hooked up a 20A ESC and in a test we puched 400w, so I need to try and program this ESC that I have from Nitroplanes, or buy a new one because Nitroplanes will not fix the problem. It is hooked upto power a 70mm ducted fan</p>