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70" CRC Outerlimits Build

Old 05-16-2014, 09:38 PM
  #26  
martno1fan
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Originally Posted by bgalles View Post
Thanks SS RC! When I spoke with GIZMOTOR they said that motor will pump out 8.25 - 8.5hp and they've seen RPM up to 22k
LOL and if Gizmo says it it must be true PMSL.
Old 05-17-2014, 03:11 AM
  #27  
SS RC Boats
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Originally Posted by bgalles View Post
Thanks Alex, I saw those on their site. They are an option, I'm thinking I may go the magnetic route. That's how I do all my planes. But I do like the idea of a lock on boat in the event of a flip. Don't want the hatch to pull free.
Originally Posted by martno1fan View Post
The magnets are best way to go,with locks in a high speed flip the hatch WILL most likely come off breaking away at the fixing points,with magnets this cant happen,just make sure your hatch has floatation.
Mart
I agree with Mart as i have had hatch locks split hatch when trying to break away from hull during a flip. It caused me more headache just to fix them back. I have been using magnets ever since and many others have gone the same route. Hatch locks are of the past now! I get my magnets from Ross Medina @ Full Throttle RC Racing….he also runs Rossi Sales/Speedmaster Hardware with Harry so you can contact him at their shop.
Old 05-19-2014, 01:00 PM
  #28  
bgalles
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So what is a proper steering servo to use? I bought a Hitec HS-805MG 1/4 scale, but dog gone this thing is huge! Is there something you all might have recommended instead?
Old 05-19-2014, 02:08 PM
  #29  
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That is a tad bit bigger than most 1/4 scale servos so you may have a little trouble finding a servo tray to fit it. I know the Speedmaster 1/4 scale servo tray will be a little too small for it. I have used the Hitec HS-5755MG and HS-5765MH in most builds and they barely fit the Speedmaster 1/4 scale trays with little or no room to spare. Lately I have been using the Futaba S9157 for steering which is a standard size servo but with 425oz. torque @ 6v. You can also use the Futaba S5302 1/4 scale servo.
Old 05-19-2014, 03:03 PM
  #30  
bgalles
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Thanks SS RC! Funny you mention the futaba S9157. I just got a Tower flyer in the mail and ear marked that one and the S9156.
Old 06-02-2014, 04:17 PM
  #31  
bgalles
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She's here!sitting next to my 70" fountain. For CG should I subtract the 5" transom over hang? Recommend 30% for CG? I ask cause I know a few on here have built this beast.
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Old 06-02-2014, 09:33 PM
  #32  
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Correct DON T count the overhang when calculating the cg.
Old 06-03-2014, 11:35 AM
  #33  
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Personally i would NOT recommend a 30% COG with that hull. The hull will run very wet and you would not be pleased,especially if you don't run in salt water. From my experience running and building many GTX hulls and knowing what COG changes Mike had to do to his 70" Outerlimits with single mod Gizmo 29cc motor in order for it not to run so wet i would recommend between 25% - 26" COG and nothing more.
Old 06-03-2014, 12:46 PM
  #34  
bgalles
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Ok 25%-26%, great info. I'm also running a 30cc single
Old 06-04-2014, 06:31 AM
  #35  
bgalles
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Got the transom gear mounted up. Should I have mounted the trims out farther or am I good?
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Old 06-04-2014, 02:56 PM
  #36  
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Definitely out further!
Old 06-04-2014, 04:58 PM
  #37  
bgalles
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How far out? They are out 1" now from center. Should I go 3" out oe All the way to edge?
Old 06-04-2014, 07:03 PM
  #38  
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Depending on the tabs and the boat - most mono's I've done with single tabs the edge starts at least 2" from center of transom

Not sure with that hull but those are pretty close I'd move them out

RD

One of my favorite boats

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Old 06-05-2014, 06:41 AM
  #39  
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2 1/2" from keel to inner edge of tab will be fine. That's the measurement I'm used on 2 of 4 GTX hulls I'm built and the Outerlimits is the same bottom. My personal GTX was 3" to inner egde but I noticed no difference in handling in calm or rough water conditions.
Old 06-05-2014, 10:20 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by SS RC Boats View Post
2 1/2" from keel to inner edge of tab will be fine. That's the measurement I'm used on 2 of 4 GTX hulls I'm built and the Outerlimits is the same bottom. My personal GTX was 3" to inner egde but I noticed no difference in handling in calm or rough water conditions.
That sounds like good advice - I'd go with SS RC info.

Cheers
Old 06-09-2014, 05:45 AM
  #41  
bgalles
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Got some work done on the hull this weekend. Only thing left is to add the T-bar and oilier, Hard mount the radio box, & connect the linkages for throttle and rudder - then get some testing in.
Here are a few pics.

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Old 06-09-2014, 10:43 AM
  #42  
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Looking good but a few suggestions....

Turn exhaust cooling flange around so hoses enter and exit from front. Waterline from rudder you want enter from bottom on flange and exit from top. I would also move water outlets in front of pipe header. That way you stand less chance of hoses touching pipe and burning a hole in water line.

You have plenty air in but little ventilation out of hull. General rule of thumb is 1:3...so you want 3 times as much ventilation exiting the hull. You can get away with a 1:2 ratio though. If you don't want holes to be seen cut them in bottom side of overhang.

Also turn your full tank around so when bow lifts and tank is low it will still be forced towards fuel pickup. The way it is now,if tanks runs low while getting bow lift the fuel will be going away from fuel pickup and it will loose fuel suction.
Old 06-10-2014, 06:45 AM
  #43  
bgalles
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Fantastic suggestions - I actually have 4 more air duct coming from MHZ Germany, just waiting for them to get here. My plan was to mount them on the under side of the transom over hang. Took your suggestion and re-routed the water cooling lines as you stated

I'm not sure I understand your suggestion regarding the fuel tank...The way I have it positioned, the fuel pick up/clunk is at the back of the tank near the engine. Shouldn't that be correct?

Any suggestion on how to mount the radio box vs. just sending some screws threw it into the engine rails?

Thanks again for all the help!
-BG
Old 06-10-2014, 07:53 AM
  #44  
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Ok if you have the clunk at the back your in the right direction. With the radio box you can get two small hooks from hardware store an screw into engine rails that way you just hook your rubber bands from one hook to the other hook on opposite side and your good. You can put a rubber mount at front of radio box to stop from moving forward. Or a small square pice of wood with a 6/32" or 8/32" nut and bolt holding it to engine rail.
Old 06-17-2014, 06:25 AM
  #45  
bgalles
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Tabs moved out, pipe outlet added, servo line added, and drive line done. Now I'm just waiting on my last couple of air vents to get here from Germany and she is ready for testing! Then a nice paint scheme.
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Old 06-18-2014, 12:13 PM
  #46  
bgalles
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Some more photos:

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Old 06-18-2014, 12:49 PM
  #47  
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A few more and a pic of my 2400mAh 6.0v receiver packs I made up.

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Old 11-26-2020, 11:24 AM
  #48  
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Did you ever get this thing in the water? How did it do?
Old 11-30-2020, 10:22 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by ChrisK7 View Post
Did you ever get this thing in the water? How did it do?
you may want to PM or email him as he has not logged in in over 4 years unfortunately

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