lever02

Did the acetone thing today and started the glazing process. Resisting the urge to break out the palm sander. Visited the Graphics store and got a price on a wrap. Not too unreasonable considering the overall cost of this thing. Have I mentioned I'm over budget The hardware is on it's way, hooray for that. No word from Mr. Park on shipment of the engine. The good thing is I'm off the next four days, so I can spend some quality time with my new endeavor.

expresscraft

Don't go crazy sanding, just a little scuff sanding is all that is needed, and I would not paint the bottom of the hull, gel coat runs much better then paint and will also take more of a beating.you want to remove most of the filler before sanding so you do not make any more work for yourself then needed, filling the seam should be almost no amount of filler needed so don't pile it on.

lever02

Thanks, finding that out, first couple inches as a test, spread on way too much, thinking I would run some painters tape below the seam just so I can keep myself it check. The feather it in when I pull the tape. I may be overthinking this. Also, the two raised blisters on the hatch, if I open those up on the leading edge, will that be enough inlet air?

expresscraft

No,I would use a 1" hole saw and put 2 or 3 holes in the lower side windshield area on the carb side of the boat about 3-4 inches in front of the carbs. Then you need to vent the back out good air out is probably more important then air in.once the boat is filled with hot air cool air is now blocked out from coming in at all. So a good hot air out cool air in is what you are after. This is a good reason why you might want to get your boat running before painting. I can tell you what has worked all day long and it still may not work on your boat. i do not think you will have a problem just giving you a heads up. some guys remove the windshield area and replace it with a black or gold metal screen materiel if done right it looks great also. Take your time in these area's and the results will be well worth it.
before you cut anything you can mark off your windshield then use your uncut marked hatch as a former for your lexan just use gloves and a heat gun, once satisfied with your formed windshield that should be a little bigger then you marked out one.Cut out your windshield on the hatch and from the inside glue in or screw in your newly formed lexan windshield, A sew holes in the clear window will go almost un noticed, The drivers cockpets can be made to be removable when running or permanent if you can incorporate your air flow needs

lever02

Outlet air is going to be easy, I've seen some nice grills online. It's all about looks and functionality. The example below looks good. I think I will involve my engineer on this aspect. Nothing wrong with a second set of eyes on this. I will definitely hold off on the paint and or wrap until after we get it on the water. Good advice. Mr Park to ship the engine next week, Ross said the hardware will be here Saturday. I can't sing his praises enough.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=...11824674981877

expresscraft

Here are some pictures a customer just sent me.This is our 54" c-54 I made some mods to his hatch and I might do another one to pull a mold from and offer this version as well. with our double lay up boats like the c-54 are a great option for the inline's. The c54 is a carbon fiber great looking hull and a great running boat with the inline it has seen 79 mph with good handling. At 225.00 its a very hard deal to beat, we do charge 50.00 more for a double lay up but even at 275.00 its less then most competitors fiber glass hulls.The thunderbolt as all the cats do not need a double lay up so they are 350.00 and work great with a single or a inline. The Thunderbolt has seen 84 mph with the twin.Of course the c-54 will also run great with a single.

lever02

Exploring air inlet, will this suffice?Feel free to lay you head on it's side

lever02

Almost forgot, parts came today! Nice hardware. No word from Mr. Park on the engine.....

lever02

After some serious study I have the windshield roughly cut out.

SS RC Boats

lever02 here are some pics of the hatch for my friends 57" Central RC Skater that he asked me to put the same clamshell style vents. I will be putting more ventilation for air exit on the underside of overhang on the hull so its not really visible (won't have clamshell vents though).

lever02

Ok, looks reasonable, I assume you don't want a positive pressure inside the hull? Air in and air out. Looks like there should be a perfect balance not too much out to create a vacuum at the carbs or too much positive pressure creating Gods know what kind of issues. I may be overthinking this. Heck this may just be about cooling the cabin





Mr. Park, where's my engine?

mistycreekboats

My Feedback: (1)

some guys use a rule of 1 in = 2 out --------- so for every cm of air you bring in you should have twice that out.

I go about 1 1/2 to 1 - positive pressure will blow your hatch off if not secured right -- also good way to tell if you have enough in vs out --- if it blows hatch off ---- you need more air out

Basically - you need air out as well - lots of it

Cheers

Later

SS RC Boats

As mistycreekboats mentioned some guys use the 2:1 ratio and some the 3:1 ratio. With my friends build,by time I cut the other 8 holes on underside of overhang that will make it a ratio of about 2.5:1 meaning it will have 2 1/2 times more air going out than coming in. The 2 air outlets that are already on rear of hatch will make 10 air outlets total.

Lots of fesh air in and even more stale air exiting.

lever02

Great, It looks as if I have a bit too much inlet air. No problem though, will place some lexan behind the window screening to block some of that excess air. Also should help with water intrusion down by the deck. I painted the hatch and did a mockup to see how things were going to look. Still need to finish the painting, add some stripes and clear coat. May add some hardware tomorrow if too windy to fly. Waiting to paint the hull after the first run.

lever02

Stinger mounted today. Using two brass tubes, aluminum plate captures the larger tube and the smaller tube passes thru to the stinger.

SS RC Boats

Looking good buddy. You still waiting on inline from RCMK? I read on another forum yesterday where Mr. Park just sent out an inline motor to a gentleman and a couple other guys received their inline cranks and other parts. Maybe your next in line.

lever02

I have been persistent with my corespondence with Mr Park. He said he will ship my engine this week. He must be making these when ordered? I still have a lot I can be doing without an engine in hand. Waiting on the Bonzi clutch too.

lever02

A bit of overkill, rudder servo mounted to an aluminum backplate with rubber gaskets on each side of tray. Some goop of the bottom plate to hold in place when servo needs to be removed.

expresscraft

just got back from a 10 day road trip that was great, your boat looks good,I like the 2 out for every one in as a rule of thumb but its not carved in stone, also mount your motor when you get it then bend your stuffing tubes to fit, It will be a lot of work getting the motor to line up perfect to an already installed tube, this step really needs to be perfect. Not sure if that was your intention but it was worth mentioning regardless..

lever02

Just a mock up, all can be removed, unless you are saying I should have waited on installing the stinger? When the engine arrives I hope all the hardware will be on the transom. Pull out the tubes, balance with the engine, cut and bend the tubes to fit.

expresscraft

You are doing it right. Figured it was better to say something then not, just in case.

lever02

Well, still waiting on the engine, made an executive decision to get some preliminary painting done. Cool Bus Yellow..

expresscraft

looks really nice, matching the trailer looks very cool. Nice job on every thing so far. I am making sure you dont skip little things....you have to paint that radio box as well,No loose ends lol. I have seem guys get clear colored clip boards from i think wal mart and cut out there own radio box lids as well to match there boats, also some yellow fun noodles for flotation before they take them off the floor for winter,That stuff will look really good with the black carbon fiber back ground.

lever02

Didn't think about painting the radio box, also not wanting to use tape on the lid. May do the wax paper and silicone trick with some thumb screws for the lid..... Noodles should be cheap this time of year! Going to show some restraint on the rest of the painting and clear coat. I still have a good bit to do hardware wise. Waiting on the engine is trying my patience.:-)

expresscraft

Dale just left with the c-54 plug, we are going to make a hatch like the one off on post #106