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Looking for a gas boat WOOD KIT

Old 06-12-2016, 12:27 PM
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Team Lucas
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Default Looking for a gas boat WOOD KIT

Can anyone recommend a wood kit or site for wood kits, for gas boats?
Old 06-12-2016, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Team Lucas
Can anyone recommend a wood kit or site for wood kits, for gas boats?
Zipp Kits,Great to deal with
Old 06-12-2016, 06:56 PM
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www.zippkits.com . I've built a few of them. My Zippkits Pro Vee finally hit the water today.
Old 06-13-2016, 06:08 AM
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Joe at zippkits.com all day long would be my choice as well.
Old 06-13-2016, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Ron Olson
www.zippkits.com . I've built a few of them. My Zippkits Pro Vee finally hit the water today.
I looked at zippkits, very nice. Kits are nice and good price. Hardware required is $$$$. Has anyone use other hardware other then required?
Old 06-13-2016, 09:28 PM
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What about ML Boatworks, Mike makes some beautiful kits. http://woodrcboatkits.com/
Old 06-14-2016, 03:15 AM
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Zippkits, MLBoatworks & Blazer Marine are 3 that come to mind. All 3 are great to deal with & offer killer service & excellent kits.
Old 06-14-2016, 07:24 AM
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As far as hardware, your best two options(as I see it anyway) are Zippkits and Speedmaster. If you don't have the contact info on Speedmaster, the website is http://www.rossisales.com
Old 06-14-2016, 07:40 AM
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Does anyone have experience running air cooled engines in a zipp kit boat? It seems that they are made primarily for water-cooled motors.
Old 06-14-2016, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by delche
Does anyone have experience running air cooled engines in a zipp kit boat? It seems that they are made primarily for water-cooled motors.
You can run air cooled motors in a C box and V box
Old 06-14-2016, 09:44 AM
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Thanks for the information. I looked on zipp kits site but only saw rudders with water pickups. I'm guessing I would need to find a third party rudder.
Old 06-14-2016, 09:47 AM
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or epoxy the hole and do a light sanding or try Ebay romise hobby
Old 06-14-2016, 09:50 AM
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thanks
Old 06-14-2016, 10:07 AM
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You could also heat up the blade and put an aluminum rod into the water channel and let it cool down, resulting in a tightly held rod and plugged hole
Old 06-14-2016, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Hydro Junkie
You could also heat up the blade and put an aluminum rod into the water channel and let it cool down, resulting in a tightly held rod and plugged hole
how would you heat it up enough, w/o ruining the blade?
Old 06-14-2016, 12:27 PM
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I read on another post that is a good racer, he doesn't sharpen / sand polish his rudder, it causes needed drag to help keep nose down. I can see that thought, [wont raise the stern up, but will keep bow down a bit] Any thoughts on that?
im setting up a new Zelos 36 twin, I sharpened and balanced props, but also sharpened and sanded ugly slag off rudder, to compensate less drag I lowered both drives 1mm. should hit 70's, but don't want to blow over. Should I have kept the dull rudder, dull?
Old 06-14-2016, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Team Lucas
how would you heat it up enough, w/o ruining the blade?
Aluminum has a very low melting point so all it would take is maybe 125 to 150 degrees and freeze the rod. The difference in sizes due to the expansion and contraction should make it slide right in
Old 06-14-2016, 01:27 PM
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Go ahead and compare prices as you're going to find out that the Zippkits hardware is about the cheapest that you're going to find. I could throw you a lot of links where you'll find much higher prices.
Yes, you can get rudders without water pickups or you can just plug it or fill it in. www.rossisales.com is the manufacturer of Speedmaster hardware.
Old 06-14-2016, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Ron Olson
Go ahead and compare prices as you're going to find out that the Zippkits hardware is about the cheapest that you're going to find. I could throw you a lot of links where you'll find much higher prices.
Yes, you can get rudders without water pickups or you can just plug it or fill it in. www.rossisales.com is the manufacturer of Speedmaster hardware.
you may be correct and thanks for the info. btw how did that run go with the new build?
Old 06-14-2016, 03:56 PM
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It went. Breaking in a rebuilt engine in a new boat so I always expect some bugs. My son and buddy got it fired up then my son drove it before I knew what was going on. I usually let him make the first passes with a new boat so I can see what it's doing.
My daughter-in-law shot a video of the run, I just haven't uploaded it yet.
Old 06-16-2016, 10:46 AM
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Have a question to you guys.im replacing entire drive in the V-24, including the shaft the old shaft was steel and im replacing with brass, the steel one was straight and flex shaft bent at surface drive. Question is, should I put a bend in new one before the drive so its more smooth, or it doesn't matter?
Old 06-16-2016, 11:10 AM
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I would keep the water pickup and cool the exhaust connection with it.

Doubt your going to find useful hardware less than the Zipp.

Last edited by danielplace; 06-16-2016 at 11:29 AM.
Old 06-16-2016, 03:23 PM
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I like to order a zip I have a lot of building experience mono hull, what one is best?
Old 06-17-2016, 12:56 PM
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Whatever one you like. The A-box is probably the easiest one to build then the Crackerbox. Seeing how I just finished their latest one, the Pro Vee it wasn't too bad for a guy who can barely glue a pile of sawdust together but you have to really read the instructions carefully. The online manuals show the build with color pictures which can help out a lot.
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Old 06-17-2016, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Ron Olson
Whatever one you like. The A-box is probably the easiest one to build then the Crackerbox. Seeing how I just finished their latest one, the Pro Vee it wasn't too bad for a guy who can barely glue a pile of sawdust together but you have to really read the instructions carefully. The online manuals show the build with color pictures which can help out a lot.
nice build Ron. I always loved cracker box old style, I like speed tho, over 60 mph

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