ZippKit wood EASY VEE 46 inch Build
06-29-2016, 10:57 AM
#2
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Had all the hardware for another boat, decided to put it in this mono. My thoughts so far are, a lot better instructions then I was use too, if you never built a race boat out of a wood kit {don't include scale wood boats} I would guess 50% wont finish it.
There is a lot of sanding and then paint or clear coats, and then the hardware and engine. { Look into fiberglass hulls and build up from there} I myself like the sanding and the shaping, and this kit is nice for that.
On to the build.
[ATTACH]2170354[/IMG][ATTACH]2170355[/IMG]
There is a lot of sanding and then paint or clear coats, and then the hardware and engine. { Look into fiberglass hulls and build up from there} I myself like the sanding and the shaping, and this kit is nice for that.
On to the build.
06-29-2016, 08:34 PM
#3
The new kits are easier to build. The one I had was CNC cut so inside corners were rounded so a lot of filing was done to square them up for stringers and bulkheads. With the kits now being laser cut, it makes things a lot easier now.
For trimming off any excess wood, I'm lazy so I used this: http://www.harborfreight.com/power-t...ool-62866.html as it takes only mere minutes instead of who-knows-how-long to do it by hand.
You've read the directions but keep them handy to make sure everything you do is correct. The online manual helps a lot also as the pictures there are in color.
It is a fast-building kit as you can get a lot done in 2 hours.
For trimming off any excess wood, I'm lazy so I used this: http://www.harborfreight.com/power-t...ool-62866.html as it takes only mere minutes instead of who-knows-how-long to do it by hand.
You've read the directions but keep them handy to make sure everything you do is correct. The online manual helps a lot also as the pictures there are in color.
It is a fast-building kit as you can get a lot done in 2 hours.
07-19-2016, 06:30 PM
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07-22-2016, 05:11 PM
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07-22-2016, 05:19 PM
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I did not get the perffered hardware that ZIPP reccomendes, I wanted the boat longer so I will be putting in different setups, such as a longer drive, and a iv bag in front instead of a tank on the side, long trim tabs and I added weight to the tip
07-23-2016, 10:10 AM
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07-23-2016, 10:27 AM
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Ok here is
the zipp so far. I skipped the top section until I drill all the hardware in. [ I didn't see how mounting the top this soon is necessary, gives me more open area to work inside the hull] Here is some pic's of my progress. I did not get zipps hardware set, I wanted to have longer system. Added 2oz to the tip,and made a IV gas bag compartment, in place of running a side tank, I see how the side tank would off-set the pipe weight on the other side, but I have a center header, where there is no weight on the side. One other thing, I also didn't like how far the brace stuffing tub streached till it hit motor, so I'm in process of adding a T- brace
07-23-2016, 10:54 AM
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07-30-2016, 03:51 PM
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I have a question for you. What are you using for that flotation? Just about every boater I know uses the hard foam insulation panels from Lowes, Home Depot or Menard's since they don't absorb water or fuel. If your flotation can be compressed like a kitchen sponge, I would recommend you reconsider using it
Why do you think you need to solder the engine end of the flex cable? A round collet actually squeezes the cable, giving it it's grip. To solder the cable, you're now removing the collet's ability to squeeze and making slipping more likely. I run both square and round end cables and none are soldered, other than to the ferule at the strut end. I've never had an issue with either type and, in fact, actually ripped a stuffing tube out of a boat after the prop got tangled in milfoil using a .167 square drive cable and collet
Why do you think you need to solder the engine end of the flex cable? A round collet actually squeezes the cable, giving it it's grip. To solder the cable, you're now removing the collet's ability to squeeze and making slipping more likely. I run both square and round end cables and none are soldered, other than to the ferule at the strut end. I've never had an issue with either type and, in fact, actually ripped a stuffing tube out of a boat after the prop got tangled in milfoil using a .167 square drive cable and collet
Last edited by Hydro Junkie; 07-30-2016 at 03:58 PM.
07-31-2016, 11:02 AM
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I have a question for you. What are you using for that flotation? Just about every boater I know uses the hard foam insulation panels from Lowes, Home Depot or Menard's since they don't absorb water or fuel. If your flotation can be compressed like a kitchen sponge, I would recommend you reconsider using it
Why do you think you need to solder the engine end of the flex cable? A round collet actually squeezes the cable, giving it it's grip. To sodier the cable, you're now removing the collet's ability to squeeze and making slipping more likely. I run both square and round end cables and none are sodiered, other than to the ferule at the strut end. I've never had an issue with either type and, in fact, actually ripped a stuffing tube out of a boat after the prop got tangled in milfoil using a .167 square drive cable and collet
Why do you think you need to solder the engine end of the flex cable? A round collet actually squeezes the cable, giving it it's grip. To sodier the cable, you're now removing the collet's ability to squeeze and making slipping more likely. I run both square and round end cables and none are sodiered, other than to the ferule at the strut end. I've never had an issue with either type and, in fact, actually ripped a stuffing tube out of a boat after the prop got tangled in milfoil using a .167 square drive cable and collet
like the input thanks
07-31-2016, 12:00 PM
#22
Glad to be of service. I just think back to some of the "questionable" things I've seen beginning builders try, me included many years ago. I figure if I can help others to prevent them from making some of the mistakes I made over the years, so much the better
08-02-2016, 09:43 AM
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I need to paint it in "epoxy" paint, and never painted that type of paint, but after researching I bought "Klass Kote" brand two part epoxy paint. I have yet to spray any, for I am skipping sections, and installing hardware 1st then removing hardware and putting on top, then sand and paint, then just install hardware that has already been installed.
08-02-2016, 09:49 AM
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By the way, the boat does not take this long to build, but I am also working on my Catamaran boat. It is a 36" fiberglass twin electric. So far I am edging towards 70 mph with it. I do all 3, nitro, gas, and electric.