mudboger07

Well after some work the hydro is finally done. I'm used to airplanes so this was a different project and a learning curve, I hope everything is correct...lol
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F2A459E0-B2A7-481F-AED0-D1CAAF6CC7B6_zpspxnkuyu7.jpg Photo by mudboger06 | Photobucket

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015AFD4B-F390-416C-BFE1-E59484551502_zps8gubawd0.jpg Photo by mudboger06 | Photobucket

Pond Skipper

Why do you use photo bucket soooo much spam... spam spam..no pictures loaded nothing but spam.
Why cant you upload onto this forum so we don't have to go to the spam spammerooO site.

Key word SPAM

mudboger07

Well for one that's all I've ever used to load -pictures, I guess im not as tech savey as everyone else.........haven't had an issue before using it so why change......maybe a better way to put it would be why not try and give a new guy some constructive advice on how to share pictures.

crapshooter

your doing alot better than me, i don,t even know how to post a pic or two.

Justaddwata

My Feedback: (3)

I dont see any ads - Adblock plus on Chrome - never looked back.

Install looks good. Still not sure a clutch is needed or desirable on a hydro - They typically benefit from a thrown launch to get on the plane with a fast prop - some wont get there otherwise.

Tidnab

My Feedback: (51)

I used to do the same with Photobucket,but learned that if I click on the Share on the image and the box comes up and I click on the img link until it turns yellow,I can post only the pic in my post instead of the link to it.
I also have no adds on Photobucket using Chrome.

mudboger07

Thank you for the kind words Justaddwata...Ya I wasn't sure of adding the clutch at first, but after some thought I figured I don't race it and only intend to use it for playing around now and then I figured id try a clutch to be able to pull up to my full size boat. I guess if the clutch doesn't work out I can always take it off? I did add a water pump also to help with cooling. Building boat has been a learning curve...lol a lot different from building the giant scale planes that's for sure...lol Tidnab I'll try the share function next time and see if I can get it to work, thanks for the info on that...I had it out the other day and couldn't get a good tune....ended up taking it back home and taking the Chinese carb off and installing a wt 644 I had laying around....I think between the carb change and putting the fuel lines on backwards...lol it should run pretty good....

crapshooter

Ken, looks like your also using one of the big muffler cans from the gas planes there. how about a nice tuned pipe ?

mudboger07

Ya that's the can that came with the boat, it'd probably work in a giant scale I'd think...lol If I get into these boats a little more I've thought about doing a few motor mods and upgrade to a good tuned pipe set up.....

Got RPM

FE hydros usually have no problem getting on plane from a dead stop. Fuel hydros can't because they have too little torque to accelerate the prop off idle. The clutch, if set for a high enough rpm engagement, may solve that problem.


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crapshooter

This means use stronger clutch springs so the shoes don,t grab to clutch drum too early.

mudboger07

I'm hoping to get it out this weekend to run the second tank of fuel through it, I'll check the clutch and see how long it takes to come up on plane. Where is a good place to get stronger clutch springs if needed? When I ran it the first time it seemed to come up on plane pretty quick but with carb issues I had to cancel the first run so I only got like 10 min of run time on it. I did learn one valuable lesson, even of just tuning the carb ALWAYS put the canopy on or water will inter the carb on this hydro....lol

Hydro Junkie

That kind of applies to any hydro. With a picklefork design, water tends to get thrown over the top of the boat and into the engine bay. I've got one boats that have cowls, some have dummy engines. Either way, the carb needs to be covered to prevent water from being sucked in to the barrel

mudboger07

Thanks Hydro, I'll keep that in mind. I'm hoping The weather will be ok this weekend but its not looking to good. I need to find some good smooth water to run it on. Maybe a good idea to get out at sun up with everything is calm.

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

Here's how it's done.
To upload from your computer use the Advanced Reply, not the normal reply box.
Post your words then scroll down and click on Manage Attachments.
Choose your files (pictures) to upload.
Once that's done then click on Upload.
You should see the files as attachments.
Click on Submit Reply and you're done.

It's so easy I can do it!

mudboger07

let see if this works posting pics. Thanks Ron.....

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

I guess that it did!

crapshooter

mudboger, try and get a better pipe system when you can as the old silicon joiner type just don,t last long atall.

mudboger07

I definitely will crapshooter, I've been looking at some tuned pipes that would fit hopefully. I'd planned on running it for a while as is then do some upgrades as I can. From what I've read tuned pipes add HP witch is a good thing...

danielplace

Exactly. Use the IMG link.

mudboger07

Ok I was able to get the Hydro out over the weekend to run the motor in but I have a tuning questions. I'm running a wt644 carb set at base settings which is 2 and 2 if I'm correct? My questions is when running the low end seems to be ok....good throttle response, but the high end isn't quite right. I know these are different from the gas airplanes I've tuned over the years. But does a boat need a richer high end due to the drag of the prop? or should I start to lean it from 2 out? it actually ran pretty good just seems like I was only getting half throttle when holding it at full throttle.

danielplace

On a 644 or most any WT style carb 2 and 2 would be rich as heck. Most WT's when you add the two needle mixtures settings together in will roughly equal 3 or close to it. Your at 4 so that will be really fat.

Tune in the low until the rpm picks up with a spike and then back off 1/8 turn. Then adjust the high until you start to get a good transition from low to high speed and then open 1/8 turn. You can't final tune with no load so this is just starting setting to try. Reading the way it performs and sounds on the water is how you have to tune a boat along with checking the plug color.
I haven't used the 644 in many years so don't quote me but it is going to be close to a 1 -1/2 on each needle and that is basically where you start with any WT if you have no idea whatsoever that they should be but some like the 257 are a 2 low 1 high carb so using that suggestion you would be 1/2 a turn wrong on each so it is merrily a very rough ball park that will a least allow it to run so you can start the final tuning.

mudboger07

Awesome, thanks for the info, it did sound kind of fat but wasn't sure. I'll get it back out and start leaning it on each run until it starts to sound right and like you said also check plug color. I just need to find a spot on the lake where the water is calm so I can run it wide open....hard to find around here this time of year....

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

I'd try the 2 and 1 as that's seemed to work well for me on most Walbro carbs.
This might help you out some: Carburetor Tuning

mudboger07

Thanks Ron, The tuning guide is very helpful, I'm going to try to get it out this week and get some laps on it and see how it'll run. These boats are definitely different than tuning my gas airplanes that's for sure.....

Ken