AMXer

I retired from the US Navy after 22 years of service and found my time off WAY TO BORING.

So I went back to Collage at 54 and received my degree in the field of Laboratory Sciences. One thing that has never changed is My passion for building and making things go fast. I raced anywhere from 1/4 mile drags to 1/2 mile super Oval asphalt. But what I have always wanted to do was build a true to scale vintage hydroplane so now I have the time and the means to do so. I grew up watching the boat races from the shores of the Columbia river Tri cities Richland Wa. As well as The Seafair racing on the Puget Sound with my Dad who raced in a V-8 limited Class (it was called the Spook). I say that to say I take this Hydroplane build to be my very pinnacle of my projects and want it to be a very FAST WORK OF ART.
But I also know it needs to start with a 1st build before I try one from scratch so I ordered the SLR Missile from Zippkits and 90% of the needed hardware. I will post the build as I learn what I am doing. wish me luck. as soon as I have a few more posts I will add the pics.
C.

AMXer

List of Goods

• Engine will be a Hanson built Pro-Mod G260 (direct drive 1/4" Shaft) or
• May change based on the recommendations from the Forum
• A custom prop from Dasboata ? I sent a email to this Guy and he seems to be very knowledgeable on the ABC-props and others
• Electronics 7.4V SAVOX servo SW-2210SG handling the rudder. and controller: FlySky Noble FS-NB4. (Purchased)

JS440

My Feedback: (10)

AMX, if you're still in the area, there are also a lot of local guys that would be happy to help. I'm in the Tri Cities, and there's a very large group of guys that run these boats here.

AMXer

So I was thinking about all the different engine modifiers out there over the world wild wess . . .who have found a place on the Zenoah platform. As a new
guy It makes my head spin so I believe my best plan would to be to stick with the Stock Zenoah 260PUM for my 1st build.
If some of you have a better base line to start Please share your recommendations.
The second build I do (ML Boat works 1/6.6 scale) will be the hybrid with a Gizmo hemi headed plant maybe.... IDK
I believe I am going to plan a Vacation to Fl. when the race season opens.

Hydro Junkie

As a new builder, just worry about getting the Zipp done before you start thinking ahead to the next. These boats have a VERY big learning curve when it comes to building, set up and learning to drive them. In fact, some clubs (I know R/C Unlimiteds, in Washington State, is included since I'm a member) require a new driver to take a "driver's test" before being allowed to race. Since you haven't said if this is going to be just a fun runner or for racing, it's very difficult to give advice on your build since a race boat has to meet the requirements set in the organizational rules and a boat that's just for fun can have whatever you want for a set up.

AMXer

You are Spot On H.J.
I am sure and totally agree about the rookie (Me) making sure he can drive and not get run over or run over others
I need to stay Focus on the BASIC I am building the 1st boat only for the Joy of the build and the fun of the learning curve.
Once I know how to hold a lane and tune the Boat the whole boat, who knows.
It would devastate me to get out on the water with a Boat I just spent 3 months building (Or a YEAR) and serious coin just to get trashed by some-one.
This year will be all about going to the races and learning.
IMHO getting to know all of you and the passion put into the build will be My muse.

Hydro Junkie

Trust me, it only gets worse. My latest three or four builds have been going on for well over a year and a half. It's not that I am dragging my feet as much as I'm redesigning the boats as I go. Two of the boats I found the plans were wrong when I went and looked at the full sized boat, that being the 1973 Pay'N Pak. There were so many inaccuracies that I actually started a new build where I'm correcting them as I go. Needless to say, it takes time and patience to get the boat right and, since I'm building a scale model, if it's not right, it's not scale

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

I know know where you're at in building by you need a LOT of clamps, I used everything from spring steel ones from a stationery dept. to big ones when building wood boat kits. Tite-Bond III glue works well in places that don't need epoxy or CA. Joe's instructions are really good.
As far as props go, Chris Hoffmann a.k.a. [email protected] has never done me wrong.

Hydro Junkie

Don't think I've ever dealt with Chris but never heard any bad about him either. Another option would be Mark Sholund, owner of Props-4-U. I know a lot of people that have props that he's prepped, me included, without a problem.

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

Mark Sholund didn't many props for gas boats, I have one of the few that he's made as he sent it to me to try. He's busy enough making props for nitro engines. We go back many years.

Hydro Junkie

I know he's been busy, between actual job and props, didn't know he'd limited himself to the smaller props.
That said, I do try to support those who have done right by me so........

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

By trade he's an HVAC Technician but pumps out at least one prop a day. Chis has done me right as he's been pretty much spot on with what he's recommended to me whereas others got me somewhere in the neighborhood. I'd rather spend the bucks for one good prop than one or more that might work.

AMXer

Here I am with a few pics of where I started to where I am Tonight. Hope everyone is rocking their Builds.
I will say ZIPP Kits SLR Thunderboat is a great 1st boat to build.
1st is to make sure you have a quality build station with a SOLID FOUNDATION. Build yourself a JIG
You cant go wrong if you watch
M5 Performance Hydroplanes - Scott Meyers
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6S...kxUwSi0aLeOfUA
The guy is very talented as well as entertaining to watch. He is a wealth of knowledge and knows where to send you for the right parts
Here are a few pics from my build.


Setting the Bulkheads on the jig

Make sure to have the right Tools. The Jig will get you 85% but the digital degree finder and a quality square will get you close to that 100

Take the time to check your work multiple times. the closer to square you are the better you start with a solid foundation.

AMXer

After the framing is in place the hull bottom is placed in one whole piece. NOTE its a big cumbersome bottom and it is very hard to assemble the 4 pieces alone. Sugest you have a 2nd set of hands to epoxy the two large halves. The instructions provided by ZIPP ROCK ! ! !
pre assemble the flat area with your weights and remember the fnt of the nose will have a few degrees for the AOA angle of attack. BE patient and take your time with this, trial fit it multiple times. When you are sure it will fit then go ahead and mix up your epoxy.
here are a few pics


Leave the tape in place and once the ride pads and bottom is in place double check your work prior to cutting the tabs on the bulkhead. I had to replace the port side ride pad. (Poor positioning of the aft ride pad)

once I cut the tabs and prepared to turn over the boat I made sure to cut the jig to fit the Sponsons and then I screwed the boat square to it. filling 4 small holes was not an issue when keeping the boat square

instructions suggest the seam down the center of the hull be fiber-glassed nose to transom. I went with left over pieces of plywood from the left overs. as well as reinforcing the nose as it was recommended by some other builders

Once I was happy with the basic hull and framed up bulkheads, ribs and sponsons It is time to seal up the inside with 2 coats of epoxy. it is OK to reduce the epoxy to more evenly spread it. BUT not too thin. USE Denatured Alcohol.

AMXer

I deviate from the build by using teak decking instead of the supplied plywood decking. I wanted my 1st build to have the look of the strip deck Kind of like the
50s-60s vintage Miss Budweiser? There are other 7L build Hydros that went this way I wanted to try. here are the sponsons being covered.
I did add 2 part closed cell foam flotation. and sealed each piece of teak prior to mating to the bulkheads.


Sanding and adding a very slight angle to each edge made for some very long nights. Each plank required some time to true up align the grain and epoxy but I believe it was worth the effort.

Once sanded and shaped I drilled each one 2 spots and plugged, filled and sanded to replicate the silicon bronze screws.
AT THIS POINT I THOUGHT I HAD MADE A BIG MESS>>>>>>>>
BUT


Started to look better each pass of the sandpaper. Can you see the plugs....

I am very happy with the way its working out. Before I start the main body of the boat I will be fitting and mounting the Cowling in order to make sure everything lines up.

Hydro Junkie

Is this the same boat build I saw in a different boating forum? If this was my build, I wouldn't have used the two-part foam. I would have used the pink or blue insulation foam from Home Depot or Lowes, sealing the outside surfaces with epoxy before putting it in place and installing the skin. I've seen two-part foam expand long after a boat was finished and blow the hull apart. I know some swear by it, but I won't use it for that very reason

AMXer

Yes it is the same boat, I started the thread here I did not want to leave it unfinished as I have seen many do.
Input from you all who have been where I started is appreciated Thank you for the input.
I would not be as far along as I am without all the Kick@$$ build threads. IMHO it pays to search the Multiverse.
Peace


Time to apply second coat inside and prep for the cowling as well as some basic hardware installation.

Hydro Junkie

The guys over at the other site know their stuff since they have been racing for years or, in Mike's case, I think it's decades. As you can probably tell, Ron and I have been members here for around a couple of decades as well and have spent hours chatting about boats and builds. Not sure who JS440 is since he doesn't post much but he's been around almost as long as Ron and I have. One thing I will say is that we all have our own preferences on how we do things and why. If you see things you agree with or like, use them. There is no correct way to do something that needs to be copied, just ways that won't work that we have all usually found out the hard way. Just wish I had sites like this and the other one when I started back in 1982. Would have saved me a lot of money and headaches over the years.

snake07

AMXer, thank you for posting steps by steps building the SLR Missile Thunderboat, I'm preparing to build it and would love to see the remaining steps, how have you been doing ? complete the build ?

AMXer

I have been more active on the WEB, intlwaters dot Com page under the same SLR Missile Build give it a check.
I loat back and post updates here every few months but weekly on the other as it caters to my Atlanta Radio Control Club more.
PS the Build is awesome and as long as u follow the directions you will be super happy.
MAKE sure to reinforce the nose and seams
C.

snake07

I'm trying to register for a member on intlwaters and having issue with it, sent an email to the admin trying to figure it out, will check on your post as soon as I can log in as a member at intlwaters.

Hydro Junkie

Snake, I think you will find a lot of good information in that thread. I know there have been several differences of opinion in it as well, all part of the hobby. One thing I will say on that subject is it gives you options on how you can proceed with your build. For example, one thing I would change would be to using no more than two pieces to make the bottom of the boat. Then again, I have a source that I can get the appropriate plywood from that is large enough to do so. Not everyone has that option available to them so it might not be a choice that must be made