Justaddwata

My Feedback: (3)

copper can be used for exhausts however it will need to be silver soldered or brazed at each joint. Regular solder will melt and the joint fail from the heat of the exhaust.

Tidnab

My Feedback: (51)

Stuffing the crankcase http://www.modelpowerboat.com/Hopping-up_a_RC_Engine Go down to c.reducing the case volume.I used a piece of epoxy putty,the kind that comes in a stick and you cut off a small piece and nead it with your finger till it's mixed.I put a thin layer of Vasoline on the crank pin and the backplate where the ball of putty will contact it and put the ball of putty on it and put the backplate back on ,pulled it off,let it harden,then measure the thickness with a caliper.Measure the thickness of the aluminum or the material you're using and deduct from the thickness measurment of the putty.That will be your gap.You don't want the crankpin to touch the back plate. .020 would be good ,but you can go tighter.

martno1fan

you should have the plans now mate check your email.

dwr9

I don't think you really want to go down to the 1/2" pipe, it will resrict the exhaust too much, keep it 3/4" all the way. Also as has been said regular solder will melt with the exhaust heat. Doug

gojoecrewchief1

Ok didnt see the solder will melt part of that post lol, Ill clean them up and redo them with silver

gojoecrewchief1

Hey guys here is a update of my progress. Here are the pics of all the cutouts on hard paper.

martno1fan

hi mate looks like your cracking on now,just one thing though you only need one set of stringers not two i used the longest ones that go right to the transom.the ones with the cutout in them are the ones i used but choose which ever ones will suit your motor best.

bullboy8

We are cooking along! Starting take resemblance of some carnage of a boat. Hopefully sometime this week we can get to cutting...

jeremy242

If i could go back and changesomething on my build it would be to get a really fine blade and cut the wood slowly and keep in the lines. It makes finishing it somuch easier. I know it is comon sense but i got a little exited and i had a lot of finishing work to do. Seems didnt line up and i had to fill a few areas. Just my two cents

fowlmood77

Try Homelites. Easy to modify and easy to find. They can be found remanufactured for around $65 or try E-bay.

gojoecrewchief1

It is withing the lines and as long as all of the plans that im going by are correct this boat will line up very nicely. I went with the 24pin blade so it is very fine.

martno1fan

hope you mean outside the lines so you can sand them back to the lines? .

gojoecrewchief1

Do you by chance have any do's or dont's for the way the grain is on wood? Yes outside the lines so i can sand them down Ed was talking about cutting the wood on a angle not to sure what he meant though. Hard to explain over the phone.. does it mean putting the blade at a angle so the wood does not splinter while i am cutting it?

martno1fan

Draw the plans so the grain runs lengtheways then score any lines that run across the grain with a sharp knife.Remember on a jigsaw they cut on the up stroke so the upper face is the one that can splinter so make sure you draw two mirror images and keep the roughest faces inside the hull that way you wont see any splintered bits .When you come to join the bottom sheets use a small block plane or a sander (sandpaper and a block of wood will do) and bevel the edges where they will meet to get a good join for the epoxy to adhere to,it saves a lot of filling later.When ataching the sides leave 1/4 inch over hang past the bottom sheets then you can shape these to for your chine rails .If not you will need to add chines by using triangular stock as i did as i forgot that little trick .

gojoecrewchief1

Well i got about 5 hours of sleep today maybe and then duh duh dunnnn!! My little kid Lilly wanted to eat!! So she had her bottle and I got to work shortly after that. I got all of the wood Traced Cut and Sanded in about 4-5 hours. Here are the pics of what i did today.


It all seems to fit together quite well after sanding im sure there are going to be some 1/32nd gaps here and there but nothing that cant be sanded a little. I am going to glue if anyone had any good ideas for pressure on the joints for drying that would be greatly appreciated! Seeing as i dont have any clamps laying around... Hope you all enjoy

gojoecrewchief1

[:@] ok well its not going together as expected. i used the long stringers and it seems to be right but the bottom of the boat will not curve corectly...?? Is there anything you may be able to add mart?

dicko

use that hammer in your last pic sorry, had to write that.

gojoecrewchief1

some pics of how i think it seems to go.

dwr9

It looks like you have the wrong edges of the bottom panels together at the keel. The edges of the bottom panels with less curve should be together in the middle. Doug

w3bby

Looks to me as if those joined panels are the deck (I could be wrong, the angle of the picture doesn't help). Otherwise I would have to agree with Doug.

martno1fan

I cant even make them out the pics are so dark maybe you could take some more of the bottom sheets? as W3bby says make sure you have the right pieces.By the way if you dont have clamps you can use hot glue to tack then epoxy the joins after.Also when doing the bottom sheets glue them up only from transom to where they start to curve then once set bend the curved part and glue,if its hard to bend you can also drill small holes in the edges and use small zipties to lace them together till the glue dries ,then cut the ties off and fill the holes.Heres a cpl of pics of what i mean,these are W3bbys boat been built not mine but they show what i mean.When i put the sheets on the bottom i use small panel pins to pin the sheets to the transom and also in the other frames where i could,just dont knock them right in then you can remove them once the glue drys .

dwr9

Never thought about the fact that they may be the deck planks. Could be since it does look like there is no curve to the one edge and the bottom pieces are curved on both edges. I also don't see the bottom pieces laid out anywhere in the pictures. Doug

gojoecrewchief1

They are for sure the right Bottom pieces right off of the plans. Ill take some pics in a bit.

dwr9

I believe ya. Just couldn't tell for sure in the pics. You definitely have them taped together wrong in the pic. The edges with less curve come together at the keel, not the edges with the big curve. Doug

gojoecrewchief1

Just making sure were all on the same page thanks Doug. Together we just seperated the Men from the boys....