WHH Super G
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WHH Super G
I just recently became the new owner of a Ware House Hobbies Super G that a friend of mine had to part with due to money problems.
It has a Zanoah 26 water cooled engine installed. The boat wasn't in the best of shape mechanically and I have it disassembled to fix all the problem areas. (Not too bad, just a broken header and radio box, plus it was full of oil and sludge due to the broken header and bad exhaust seals)
I am wanting to re-plumb all the water cooling lines and do it correctly. I will be purchasing a new center out dry exhaust that also has a water cooled head flange and pipe coupler flange.
1) Will I need to purchase a water pump to circulate water to everything ?
2) Do I split all the cooling pieces with separate pickups?
3) Or do I make it one long interconnected piece with one pickup and one outlet?
I am extremely new to big Gas boats and want to make sure I do it right the first time.
It has a Zanoah 26 water cooled engine installed. The boat wasn't in the best of shape mechanically and I have it disassembled to fix all the problem areas. (Not too bad, just a broken header and radio box, plus it was full of oil and sludge due to the broken header and bad exhaust seals)
I am wanting to re-plumb all the water cooling lines and do it correctly. I will be purchasing a new center out dry exhaust that also has a water cooled head flange and pipe coupler flange.
1) Will I need to purchase a water pump to circulate water to everything ?
2) Do I split all the cooling pieces with separate pickups?
3) Or do I make it one long interconnected piece with one pickup and one outlet?
I am extremely new to big Gas boats and want to make sure I do it right the first time.
#2
RE: WHH Super G
Do what i did, also a new gasser. Go to warehouse hobbies web site and they have all the info on there web site for water plumbing and some great training videos by tony c the owner. Great boat ! Love my team pro !
#3
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RE: WHH Super G
You only need a water pump if you run a clutch, no clutch = no pump. If you have a dual pick-up rudder you can run seperate lines to the manifold, pipe and engine. If you have 1 pick-up run it to the engine first (in on the low side, out on the high side) then the manifold, last to the pipe. Put the outlet on the side where you can see it clearly, that way if there is no water you can shut it down! All the inlets go in on the low side, out on the high side, that way it has to completely fill with water before it exits. Use large or ExLarge Silicone water line, don't use Tygon fuel line as it expands with heat and the water pressure will blow it off. Drill out all your fittings the same size. You can go 1/8" on the drill but I usually go 3mm or 7/64" just to have a slight margin of error. The engine head water fittings have restrictors in them, be sure to drill them even if you don't do anything else.
#7
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RE: WHH Super G
Jim, dont know if your questions have been answered properly yet. please excuse me if this is redundant.
if no clutch ( you dont need a water pump) as boat will be moving all the time. but you need someone to throw the boat in for you as its kinda hard to do while your holding the radio.
if you have a clutch ( you need a pump) cause when you slow down of ilde the engine will overheat. so you can start it up put it in the water and get your radio and them go play. This is definately the way to go for a playboat.
water pump runs off of the engines pulses. so the engine must have a tap.
that means the engine need to have a tapped fitting that will run the rump. it is generally install into the ISO block between the carb and the head. its the same pulse that runs the fuel pump on the carb.
most of the pumps came with a pulse line( that connects to the motor to make the pump work) and an IN and OUT line. you can add another IN and OUT fitting to any pump. that will give you 2 seperate INS and OUTS. or you can just put plastic tees into the one IN/OUT lines so you have 2 water pick-ups feeding the IN and 2 water outlets coming from the out. either way. you should supply the cylinder head first.
water pump out to (lower fitting) on cylinder head.
upper fitting on cylinder head to lower end of exhaust manifold.
upper part of manifold overboard thru a fitting.
tuned pipe mount should be fed seperately from the water pump to the tuned pipe flange and overboard thru a fitting. this area needs alot of cooling as the dry pipe will get really hot and melt those o-rings right out. get red o-rings and get some spares while your at it.
let me know if you need some pics. i could shoot some for you. hope this helps my e-mail : [email protected]
if no clutch ( you dont need a water pump) as boat will be moving all the time. but you need someone to throw the boat in for you as its kinda hard to do while your holding the radio.
if you have a clutch ( you need a pump) cause when you slow down of ilde the engine will overheat. so you can start it up put it in the water and get your radio and them go play. This is definately the way to go for a playboat.
water pump runs off of the engines pulses. so the engine must have a tap.
that means the engine need to have a tapped fitting that will run the rump. it is generally install into the ISO block between the carb and the head. its the same pulse that runs the fuel pump on the carb.
most of the pumps came with a pulse line( that connects to the motor to make the pump work) and an IN and OUT line. you can add another IN and OUT fitting to any pump. that will give you 2 seperate INS and OUTS. or you can just put plastic tees into the one IN/OUT lines so you have 2 water pick-ups feeding the IN and 2 water outlets coming from the out. either way. you should supply the cylinder head first.
water pump out to (lower fitting) on cylinder head.
upper fitting on cylinder head to lower end of exhaust manifold.
upper part of manifold overboard thru a fitting.
tuned pipe mount should be fed seperately from the water pump to the tuned pipe flange and overboard thru a fitting. this area needs alot of cooling as the dry pipe will get really hot and melt those o-rings right out. get red o-rings and get some spares while your at it.
let me know if you need some pics. i could shoot some for you. hope this helps my e-mail : [email protected]
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RE: WHH Super G
If you could send pics, that would be MORE than helpful as I am very new to boats and don't want to mess anything up. ([email protected])
I will have to look for the tapped fitting you are talking about. If the boat doesnt have a tapped fitting, what do I do then?
I will have to look for the tapped fitting you are talking about. If the boat doesnt have a tapped fitting, what do I do then?
#10
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RE: WHH Super G
Hi I'm not sure if Nieto got you the pics you need here are some from my Enforcer Super Sport. Should be very close to your Super G. If you need anything specific I'm sure one of us will be able to help.
#11
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RE: WHH Super G
the cheese is all over it. your pretty quick! YOU DA MAN CHEESER ! Jim , this should get you squared away. the cheeser even put labels on the pictures for ya. VERY COOL ! i love this place and the guys the hang around here always ready to help out a fellow boater. ditto on the more pictures just ask "and ye shall recieve".
#12
RE: WHH Super G
Don't know if it helps, but I have a long thread about a boat I designed and build. The part the link goes to starts the engine and hardware install, skipping all the glasswork and painting. Hopefully if you flip through the pages, you'll pick up something....let us know what specifics you need. All my boats use WHH hardware and they all are the same no matter what V hull it goes into.
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8013833]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8013833[/link]
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8013833]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8013833[/link]
#17
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RE: WHH Super G
Well, I got it all put together and running along with all the water cooling plumbing and it all works great! Well, at least it WAS working great. Took it out this afternoon for its maiden voyage. It cranked up perfectly, warmed up and idled steady. Took it out away from the dock, slowly felt everything out and got used to everything, took it up to half throttle...still a-ok, finally pulled the trigger, boat literally jumped up and took off! ran great! ran it for about 1 minute and let off the trigger to slow it back down to idle.....Thats when the fun began. Engine shut off....Recovery boat wouldn't work. After several minutes, got the recovery boat running. Used the tennis ball trick to loop the rudder and slowly started to pull it back to shore. Wave overtook the bow...boat sunk. Only @1 foot of hull stuck out of the water straight up. Tried to drag it back to shore slowly and recovery boat flipped over and it too started to sink. Got into a paddle boat and after 20 minutes of work, finally got to the boat. Everything was soaked. Water tight box worked, but not fully water tight after all that time. Receiver was wet and battery pack soaked. Electronics dont seem to want to work. Fail Safe is just flashing, no movement form anything.[sm=drowning.gif]
I guess I will have to completely tear the boat apart and tear down the engine to make sure all water is out of everything and get it all cleaned up......again. Yippie.[sm=71_71.gif]
I guess I will have to completely tear the boat apart and tear down the engine to make sure all water is out of everything and get it all cleaned up......again. Yippie.[sm=71_71.gif]
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RE: WHH Super G
You don't have to tear down the motor to get the water out. Just pull the spark plug, turn the boat upside down and pull the starting cord several times. You need to fire up the motor very soon after you have gotten water in it. The water can damage the bearings if it is left in there.
Take the sevos out and take them apart and let them dry out. Take the receiver out and open up it's case and let it dry out. Give it a day or two to dry out. Put everything back together and see if it works. Most times it will.
I don't think your failsafe units will come apart without breaking.
There are some more tricks of dealing with water in the electronics of these boats.
Spray CorrisionX on the circuit boards and let it dry. It will keep corrision from occuring and somewhat water proof the electronics (servos and receiver).
When you go to reassemble those servos put a little silicone on the sealing edge of the end cap and let it squeese out and wipe off the excess. I also seal the gear cap on the same way but you have to make sure that you don't get silicone on the gears when you do it.
Even if its in a water tight (water resistant) radio box I still put my receiver in a receiver bag (balloon) just in case. You can buy them from a hobby shop or just go to the store and buy a bag of 12" party balloons.
Good Luck
Take the sevos out and take them apart and let them dry out. Take the receiver out and open up it's case and let it dry out. Give it a day or two to dry out. Put everything back together and see if it works. Most times it will.
I don't think your failsafe units will come apart without breaking.
There are some more tricks of dealing with water in the electronics of these boats.
Spray CorrisionX on the circuit boards and let it dry. It will keep corrision from occuring and somewhat water proof the electronics (servos and receiver).
When you go to reassemble those servos put a little silicone on the sealing edge of the end cap and let it squeese out and wipe off the excess. I also seal the gear cap on the same way but you have to make sure that you don't get silicone on the gears when you do it.
Even if its in a water tight (water resistant) radio box I still put my receiver in a receiver bag (balloon) just in case. You can buy them from a hobby shop or just go to the store and buy a bag of 12" party balloons.
Good Luck
#19
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RE: WHH Super G
Best thing to do is leave the engine in the boat, pull the spark plug out tip the lot upside down & pull the starter cord several times to clear out as much water as you can. Roll the boat around before you start it to get all the water out of the engine & pipe. Make sure the plug is dry and that there is no water in the fuel in your tank, prime the engine & fire it up straight away, let it warm up & this will evaporate all the water out of the engine.
As for the electronics, dry them out & wash them over with methylated spirits to remove any moisture. They should work agian as long as nothing was shorted out.
I usually dunk my boats at least once on a race day (twice last sunday[:@]).
As for the electronics, dry them out & wash them over with methylated spirits to remove any moisture. They should work agian as long as nothing was shorted out.
I usually dunk my boats at least once on a race day (twice last sunday[:@]).
#20
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RE: WHH Super G
Once again, this site and the people who are members of it rock!
Thank you all for the info. It makes it easier to be more confident when you know there is this type of knowledge base close by![sm=thumbs_up.gif]
Thank you all for the info. It makes it easier to be more confident when you know there is this type of knowledge base close by![sm=thumbs_up.gif]
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RE: WHH Super G
If it hasn't been said before.... There is no such thing as too much floatation. Go out and buy some pool noodles and fill the hull with them.
As for CorrosionX try your local Marina or if you still have one in your town a True Value Hardware store. I think you can also buy it on-line directly from them.
http://www.corrosionx.com
As for CorrosionX try your local Marina or if you still have one in your town a True Value Hardware store. I think you can also buy it on-line directly from them.
http://www.corrosionx.com
#23
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RE: WHH Super G
Pool noodles were going to be my next purchase, but I couldn't wait to run it for the first time. (Famous last words.....)
Oh well, at least I was able to save it from Davy Jones locker in time!
Oh well, at least I was able to save it from Davy Jones locker in time!