5150Cat

Matt,
Yeah, I'm going to see what Ican make happen with the hinge option. Just seems like a better option.I guess I'm thinking in my head also.....if Iyard sale the boat at high speed it's going to be ugly all the way around.Guess the friggin hatch is the least of my worries! )

Engineer buddy of mine had a good idea. Instead of spring so it opens slow why not a servo actuated top?)He might be onto something here.Extra weight but that would be easier and more reliable than the shock option.

Ok, I'm having another issue.I ordered a fuel filler cnc machined piece from MH$. I'm torn.Ithink it looks the best on the side of the hatch just behind the windshield but this creates all sorts of issues. So I'm leaning towards where Phil had his on the hull itself next to the hatch seam......that makes way more sense Iguess but it just looks more race on the side of the hatch.........

Also adding some pics. Ordered a intake for the roof.Just to make it look a little different and a little more aggressive.And to serve as that much more resistance when the water hits it when I flip it...... Think it looks pretty good.Liked it more on the back than I did towards the front.

Again disregard the destroyed shop in the background......

Mike

Justaddwata

My Feedback: (3)

You have a pic of the fuel filler?

5150Cat

Hey buddy,
Yes Ido have some pics......now! ) Here they are. Pretty decent set up. It comes with an attachment that you can see in the pics that actually locks down in the filler neck not unlike the ones for your car does.And it slides in pretty good.No danger of it falling out. I'm pretty happy with it.Looks pretty good as well.Took a chance when I ordered it but am happy with it.

Also managed to get the holes for the water pick-ups drilled today before the fam got home.Gotta say that was the most stressed out thing I've done on the boat. Hard to just start hacking into the bottom of that gelcoat! But I did as you said and have learned from past mistakes......took it slow and dremeled it to start and filed it slow to the end. Nice tight fit now.I thinkI'll silicone them in and then glass over that. That should insure a nice watertight seal.

I do have to say I'm not liking the drive adjustment. Check out the pics.You adjust the drive up or down.That part works flawlessly and has nice range. Plenty for what Iwill need I'm sure. The part I don't get?Once you adjust the drives to the angle you like.Say +3 degrees. You can then just take the drive and lift up the back with your hand.......nothing stops it from lifting up. So what that tells me is that when I'm romping on the throttle.....or worse, the drives are coming in and out of the water......they will slam up and then slam back down onto the adjustment screws.Nothing stops the drives from rocking up and down.Isee this being aMAJORflaw and causingstress to the drives that isn't needed. It was the same as if Ididn't have the adjustable drives though.Just a screw and a stop on the drive.This keeps it from being pushed forward but not back. Not sure if you've dealt with this and I'm just missing something?I'm thinking at least of putting a spring on the top of the drive to keep the drive from crashing up into the top of the housing. The servos would have to work against the spring but since I'll be using 1/4 scale for those it shouldn't be to big of problem.

What do you think?

Mike

5150Cat

Buddy of mine wanted me to posta pic of how big the hull is in compared with my big melon.....so here's a pic Wade!

Mike

lewisdf4

wow!!!![X(] The boat m8, not your melon............

Justaddwata

My Feedback: (3)

Hi Mike,

You do have a good sized melon as I know the boat is huge

Ihave never heard of anyone having issue with the drives pivoting up or slamming - never heard of a hinge failure or anything else associated with it. Believe the fact that the prop thrust will always be pushing the drive forward. If you were going full throttle and released the throttle completely I guess there is a chance they could pivot up but never noticed anything like that or any adverse driving as a result. Think the ability to pivot up is a plus if you were to impact something in the water (like a turtle etc) which would save your transom some stress.

Not a bad fuel filler - I did not see it on their site but have seen them before. I have tended toward the slightly larger QWWfiller which uses a rubberized cap to seal a filler tube within.

Did good with the pick ups. Are they flush with the bottom? (One pic they look a touch recessed).

5150Cat

Hey Matt,
Yeah, they are recessed a bit. I didn't have a decent sander to thin down the inside of the hull. Just went and got one this afternoon so first thing tomorrow morning I'm going to thin the hull down and make them a little more flush with the bottom.

I'm thinking that keeping them recessed would create an unwanted air pocket that would be bad.

I'll flush them out and get more pics posted!

Mike

5150Cat

Sweet! Well I got the inlets flush with the bottom of the hull. Glad that step is almost done. Will glass them in tomorrow after work.

Just ordered some Redline motors aluminum thru the hull linkage hole thingys. So I'll get the linkage for the steering set up this week also. Hey Matt I saw Phil snapped a steering linkage in one of your pics. What did he settle on that was strong enough? I'm going to be using Hitec digital 1/4 scale servos for steering. I have some Traxxas linkage rods that are pretty burley but thats only if it is straight on. And lateral pressure and they snap like a chicken bone!

I'm also looking at the Eagle Tree real time telemetry system. Only because I can monitor 2 head temps, have an actual GPS registered speed and monitor rpms. I want to run this boat good and hard as I feel it will be strong but at the set time want to keep a really close eye on all the specs. This sysemt will allow me to do that and not have to drag it to shore every 5 minutes to check it out. Anyone have any experience with the Eagle tree stuff? Read quite a bit of good on here.

I also currently have my machine shop buddy working on my gearbox mount, exhaust exit ports and some servo mounts for the trim servos.

Pipes are soon.....soon as I figure out which I like best.....then the servos, new radio and get it painted and stickered.....but thats down the road!

Mike

5150Cat

Hey guys,
Thought of another thing that I hadn't thought of before now.

What's everyone running for fuel filters? I'm going to be running the iv bags for fuel tanks.....

Just hadn't thought of that yet.

Mike

FlogginHarvey

You're trukcing rightalong!!! I think I use Bonzi filters so far...I laso have some WHH filters as well.

Dubro and Slimline may make some worth checking out???

5150Cat

Ok guys, here's the question of the day.

I got a couple iv bags both 500cc. Do I need to run 1000cc's for the inline or will 500cc be enough for a 30+ minute runtime?

Mike

Justaddwata

My Feedback: (3)

Hi Mike,

You would not get 30 minutes out of 500ml I would not imagine - that is a long run You may find the 1000ml is on the small side but I would not go any bigger (easy to upgrade though dont think they make a bigger IV).

I use an inline fuel filter (automotive type) in my storage tank so filtering the fuel going into the boat. Idont often use a filter in the boat though there are some very compact filters around. I typically just run without - have yet to have a problem though in thinking about it should probably add a filter to the boats.

Phil snapped a titanium rod on one side and sheared the metal out put gear on the other side when he spun out the hunter - the boad hit the water sideways and the drives have a big surface area - something had to give - and for him there was no weak link so it was all expensive stuff. I use nylon horns and nylon rod ends - they are rigid enough for rough operation but will flex or fail if needed.

No experience with the Eagle tree. I have telemetry with the Nomadio (Temp, Voltage, RPM) but find it something I dont want to look at while running - believe the Eagle Tree will record the info for you which may be of more value. The Nomadio can be preset to give vibration and audio alerts for various presets. Low receiver battery is the only one I set up. I should set up the temp and RPM on more boats but find I dont use it where I fitted it as is. But as mentioned - the Nomadio is only instant read out - no recording.

5150Cat

So I have two of the 500cc bags here. I was thinking, it might be a good idea to run to seperate bags just so there is some warning as to when the fuel is going to run out.....or maybe not with the twin. Maybe I'll just score a 1000cc bag and call it good.

My gear box mounts should be done this week and I have a guy working on the exhuast ports for me.....he's anal though and it could take a bit on those.

Still undecided on pipes. Matt you had given me the names of a couple other than WH and Bonzi but I wasn't able to turn anything up on them in my search. Do you have direct links for those pipes?

Mike

Justaddwata

My Feedback: (3)

May have been a bit of a wild goose chase with those names - Jerone Tune pipes (made the pipes for the Geico cat) and Cooper pipes. Not sure Jerone/Jerome (he goes by both) has a site but I heard mention that Voodoo Props in the US was going to be making them for the US - no mention on his site presently but I am sure if you ask he will give you the scoop - Jerone Tune pipes are impressively quiet and make good power.

Cooper pipes use to be carried by a few dealers in the US but for the life of me I cannot turn them up anywhere. They are also a very good performing light weight pipe. Or you could just pick up a banded pipe or similar which will probably do an equally good job of perfroming for you.

5150Cat

Hi guys,
Sorry for the lack of posting. Been wrapped up in family stuff and started a P-51 project.....ADD and r/c are a dangerous combo! )

Matt, I talked to the guy that distributes Jerone pipes and he says they are out and has no idea when they will be back in stock. Still no luck on the Cooper pipes either.

My buddy is still working on the mounts for my trim servos and gearbox mounts. Soon as he slows down at work enough he'll get those finished up. Think they are drawn up just need to be cut out. Might have to kick him another Mt. Dew to hurry that one up!

I'll keep you guys posted......slowly but surely it's getting finished up!

Mike

FlogginHarvey

Check with Carlo at CC Racing...he is offering a combo with pipe, header, header clamp, and flange with the Jeroentune Pipes that VooDoo made out of aluminum here in the States (original pipes are stainless)...not sure if he has any left...?

Justaddwata

My Feedback: (3)

Mike - Only place I have seen the cooper pipe lately has been on Georges site - http://www.hobbydepot.com.au/product...7c6911608cd5d4 They are in Aussie dollars so price is a bit lower than you see. Take a look at his MHZ gear while you on there as his prices are CONSIDERABLY lower than the US (and thats without factoring in the exchange rate). I am sure George will take care of you well (send him a link to this thread as I am sure he will be interested in seeing your build too)

dicko

George is great to deal with. I've dealt with him several times, no messing around, next day delivery (I'm in Australia though) & helpfull to talk to.

5150Cat

Cool thanks guys. I'll shoot him and email this afternoon to see about a set of pipes.

Now if I could just get my buddy going at the machine shop I'd be golden!

Mike

sonicracing

Hey Mike, I use a single 40 Oz (1200ml) fuel tank per inline engine and I get 8 to 10 minutes at race speed, 12 to 15 minutes taking it real easy. Separate tanks per cylinder isn't a good idea as one cylinder will run lean risking damage as it runs out of fuel before the other. 1/8 I.D. fuel line is more than adequate too and just use a T piece between the carbs.

Cheers, Danny.

5150Cat

Danny,
Good call my friend. I sort of overlooked the fact that one would lean out over the other.

Do you guys sell the 1200ml bags? Or know where I can get them?

I'm actually on the fence now. I have access to a German buddy of mine with wicked welding skills and also has access to an x-ray machine.....he could weld me up a custom fit nice fuel tank and then x-ray it to make sure there aren't any holes.....

My only concern would be not being able to gauge how much fuel is in the tank. I might have to hit him up with some ideas on this. Custom fatty polished aluminum fuel cell mounted directly under the engine to keep the CG balanced sure would look better than a pee bag looking thing! LOL! Sorry for the visual guys, that's just what it reminds me of! Hahahaa!

I'm still not opposed to using one of the bags though.(For fuel of course) )

Mike

lewisdf4

On the alli tank you could have a breather exit the bottom of the tank, then have it come directly up the side in clear tube to the breather. This way it would be full of fuel to the level thats in the tank. Similar to alli oil catch cans on cars.
Cheers, Chris

5150Cat

Dang you Aussies got it nailed with this boat stuff!!!!!!

Pretty sure I'm living in the wrong country for r/c boating!

Not a bad idea at all Chris. Thanks for that. I'll put a call into him Monday morning and see what he thinks can be done.

Mike

dicko

use an L-shaped fitting on the top & bottom of that clear line so that any sloshing in the tank won't spill fuel and any water in the hull can't get in the tank. If you can keep it a closed system except for a separate breather line it'd be best. I've seen this done before on nitro boats too.

infinityteg

heres a link for the coopers pipes if your still after them.
http://www.highperformancemodels.com...rs%20Pipes.htm

cheers
steve