My MaxCat build
#27
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RE: My MaxCat build
About glassing.... These big hulls do take a beating when run in heavier weather. My V1 cat ripped open over 40cm along the bottom seems of the sponsoons, the only place where there was no glass on the outside.....just a fillet on the inside.
This has been repaired and now there is glass everywhere, no more problems..
I always glass the hulls inside and out, 50gr [1,75oz] outside, 80gr [2,8oz] inside and 160gr [5,6oz] extra on the tunnel and transom.
It will make it heavier, but only by about 200gr [7oz] for the extra outside layer.
The 50 grams glass ,1 layer of spray putty and some sanding will make it as smooth as baby skin on the outside, 80 gr is much more work to get smooth.
Also the outside layer will make it resist debris in the water much better.
Just my 2 cents...
Marcel
This has been repaired and now there is glass everywhere, no more problems..
I always glass the hulls inside and out, 50gr [1,75oz] outside, 80gr [2,8oz] inside and 160gr [5,6oz] extra on the tunnel and transom.
It will make it heavier, but only by about 200gr [7oz] for the extra outside layer.
The 50 grams glass ,1 layer of spray putty and some sanding will make it as smooth as baby skin on the outside, 80 gr is much more work to get smooth.
Also the outside layer will make it resist debris in the water much better.
Just my 2 cents...
Marcel
#28
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RE: My MaxCat build
Marcel when you say fillet on the inside do you mean a wood or epoxy one or glass?.Im also wondering what epoxy you use to build,i use very slow setting epoxy usually the fastest i use is 3 hr but lateley im using some i got from a place that builds real boats and it takes forever to go off normally touch dry after about 4 hrs but takes a full 24 hrs to harden.I have used your idea of a very thin cloth outside before on a sail boat and it did work well,with very little sanding needed.Ive just spent an hr searching for cloths to use on my mouldings for the t boat ,im in the process of making the bottom mould today.I might try one of the new carbon- polyester twill weave cloths on the inside of the hulls when i start those it looks really cool and comes in 4-5 colours you tried any before?.
Mart
Mart
#29
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RE: My MaxCat build
Hi Mart,
I only use the stronger 24 hour epoxie, used for real boat hulls, so no issue there. I never use epoxie that hardens faster then that. i'm not in a rush . I also like the 1:2 mixture type, because small deviations in mixture won't result in slow or no curing of the epoxie.
The fillets I make are made of my own blend epoxie glue, these days I make the glue a bit stronger, but in the V1 the fillets where made of 24hour epoxie and Aerosil-E with some glas fibers.
Over these fillets was a layer of 80gr glass, but only on the inside.
I never used those nice colored cloths myself, but a few I know have. Nice cloth to look at but a nightmare to work with.
Will work good for batt holders and such, not so nice to work with in hulls.. but is possible with some experience! and will look cool!
Marcel
I only use the stronger 24 hour epoxie, used for real boat hulls, so no issue there. I never use epoxie that hardens faster then that. i'm not in a rush . I also like the 1:2 mixture type, because small deviations in mixture won't result in slow or no curing of the epoxie.
The fillets I make are made of my own blend epoxie glue, these days I make the glue a bit stronger, but in the V1 the fillets where made of 24hour epoxie and Aerosil-E with some glas fibers.
Over these fillets was a layer of 80gr glass, but only on the inside.
I never used those nice colored cloths myself, but a few I know have. Nice cloth to look at but a nightmare to work with.
Will work good for batt holders and such, not so nice to work with in hulls.. but is possible with some experience! and will look cool!
Marcel
#30
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RE: My MaxCat build
After spending most of the day sanding and tweeking the frame work, I finally got the back half of the sponsons done. While the glue is drying I'm going to cut the front part out and get it ready to glue up next. Then onto the sides and tunnel....
#31
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RE: My MaxCat build
Hello Tom, you are coming along nicely on the build, it is looking very good, get all your sheeting done but do not cut the sheeting out of the top deck till you get the canopy hatch cover from me, I am going to try get it done this week end, I do not know what the UPS shipping will be yet, I got packing to protect it from shipping damage but I need to find the right size box for it. On the top deck sheeting you can sheet the whole top, and then after you get the canopy you can cut out the deck and do the necessary work for the canopy to fit the cut out.
Harold
Harold
#32
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RE: My MaxCat build
Harold, Don't rush on my part, I spent the today sanding the bottom of the sponsons so the sides will fit nicelyagainst the bottom sheeting, it came out really good. I also got the tunnel sheeted once the sides are on I can glass the inside of the hull..... I have NACA ducts to make yet and air intakes to fabricate, also I have the transom area to address yet. I'm getting tired and excited at the same time..... I can see another 2 weeks of building before I have this baby ready for paint...... I'll post some pics of the bottom later if I remember to take some pictures.....
#34
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RE: My MaxCat build
ORIGINAL: MaxCorvette
Another 2 weeks !!?? It usually takes me about 3 months to complete a build
Marcel
Another 2 weeks !!?? It usually takes me about 3 months to complete a build
Marcel
Mart
#35
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RE: My MaxCat build
Yes it does sound like an aggressive plan, Fortunately I have some time between jobs, so I can devote 8-10 hrs a day to it right now. Also in April I will be getting the big boat ready for the water and then I will have no time to work on this build, so I'm pushing to wrap it up by April. At least built and painted so it's just a matter of installing the mechanics...... These might be unrealistic goals but That is my plan and we'll see how that works out.....
#36
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RE: My MaxCat build
Hi Tom, I have got the mold prepped, PVA spayed in and the gel-coat sprayed into the mold; I have now got a four hr window to get one stabilizer layer of glass laid in, after that kicks off I can lay-up the rest any time, for your canopy.
Harold
Harold
#37
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RE: My MaxCat build
Harold, Sounds like your coming along good with the canopy, I really appreciate you poping one out of your mold for me, it's goning to save me alot of build time. Keep me posted on your progress.
Thanks,
Tom
Thanks,
Tom
#38
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RE: My MaxCat build
Time for an update and more pictures of my progress. I have the Lower half of the boat all sheeted and it just needs a final sanding. Next is clean up the inside and glass the inside of the boat, also I need to figure out my hardware and get the anchors in the transom for mounting, some of these areas will be very hard to access after the top is on the boat. I've made a few changes as I built the boat which you can see in the pictures. All these changes are cosmetic only to make the hull look more like the Mystic 5000 hull.
#39
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RE: My MaxCat build
Tom are you going to double layer the transom? I would put another layer on the inside of it. Just to beef it up. Thats alot on that little thin wood. Just my saying your build.
#40
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RE: My MaxCat build
Yes I will be doubling the transom and adding blind nuts for the hardware installation, it's just one of those little things I haven't gotten too yet.... I only made a few minor changes to the drawings so far, so the hull will be a little more rounded like the Mystic 5000 Gieco boat...
These are the changes I made, and why I made the change. I will add additionl changes that I make as they happen so watch for the updates..
1 Added 1/2"x3/4" balsa along the back and rear section of the upper frame work so the top edge can be rounded..
2 Changed the top edge from where the 1/2x3/4" balsa ends to 1/4" square stock again so I can round this edge for looks.
3 I lowered the tunnel by 10mm, This is a change that the designer made in his V2 kit for less chance of blow overs so I incoporated it into my build.
4 I changed the transom from the sloped one shown in the drawings to a straight design so hardware will be easy to setup and adjust...
5 Bottom of sponsons are sheeted with 1/8" aircraft plywood, Sides and the tunnel areas are 1/16" aircraft plywood, and the top will be 1/8" lite plywood
These are the changes I made, and why I made the change. I will add additionl changes that I make as they happen so watch for the updates..
1 Added 1/2"x3/4" balsa along the back and rear section of the upper frame work so the top edge can be rounded..
2 Changed the top edge from where the 1/2x3/4" balsa ends to 1/4" square stock again so I can round this edge for looks.
3 I lowered the tunnel by 10mm, This is a change that the designer made in his V2 kit for less chance of blow overs so I incoporated it into my build.
4 I changed the transom from the sloped one shown in the drawings to a straight design so hardware will be easy to setup and adjust...
5 Bottom of sponsons are sheeted with 1/8" aircraft plywood, Sides and the tunnel areas are 1/16" aircraft plywood, and the top will be 1/8" lite plywood
#41
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RE: My MaxCat build
Hi Tom,
Lowering the tunnel is a gamble and is NOT for better resitance against flips, but just getting cg lower. In the hope it will corner better at high speeds.
With gamble I mean that the V1 runs almost perfect on the straights, lowering tunnel will give more lift and make it flip easier. Changing the tunnel shape should give it less lift and hope it will be the same result.
I hope the V2 has the same straight running capabalities but better cornering
Lengthening the tunnel is for flip resistance, what you haven't done yet.
Looks great! Keep it up!
Marcel
Lowering the tunnel is a gamble and is NOT for better resitance against flips, but just getting cg lower. In the hope it will corner better at high speeds.
With gamble I mean that the V1 runs almost perfect on the straights, lowering tunnel will give more lift and make it flip easier. Changing the tunnel shape should give it less lift and hope it will be the same result.
I hope the V2 has the same straight running capabalities but better cornering
Lengthening the tunnel is for flip resistance, what you haven't done yet.
Looks great! Keep it up!
Marcel
#42
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RE: My MaxCat build
Marcel,
Thanks for your reply, maybe I'll leave it in primer this summer and fine tune the hull before it gets painted. That way you and I can compare notes and see what works the best......
Thanks for your reply, maybe I'll leave it in primer this summer and fine tune the hull before it gets painted. That way you and I can compare notes and see what works the best......
#45
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RE: My MaxCat build
man i really need to get a set of these plans printed. i dont have a printer otherwise i would have already. boat looks great. keep the updates comin
#47
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RE: My MaxCat build
Harold, THe hatch looks fantastic, it's going to make the boat come together quickly for me. Your attention to detail shows that Your a great craftsman. Let me know how much with shipping and How you want the payment, Check, MO, or Paypal?????
Thanks,
Tom
Thanks,
Tom
#49
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RE: My MaxCat build
Been working on the Maxcat today trying to get the glass and resin work done on the inside. I have 3 more bays to go and ran out of resin so it's off to West marine for supplies tomorrow morning. It's coming along good so far, I'm switching back to wood working for now so I can keep this build moving along.....
#50
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RE: My MaxCat build
The inside is all glassed I can flip it over and start the ride pads and strakes.... I have 1-1/4" aileron stock for the pads it gives me a 7* angle on the pads... and I also have some 1/4" balsa 45* strips for the strakes. They will all get resin then a lair of glass and more resin... If I can get that cwrapped up tomorrow it will be time to sheet the top and let the sanding begin..... [sm=spinnyeyes.gif][sm=spinnyeyes.gif][sm=spinnyeyes.gif]