BarnacleNZ

just stumbled across this one. I personally dont know anything about hulls. Id just like something with a hatch now.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Toys-models...-241805760.htm
could i get any opinions or thoughts on this one??
cheers
Nick

jacob711

i like it very much, one of the best looking monos around IMO

looks alot like this one

BarnacleNZ

i did think it had a good look to it... with a hull of say that size, 42", is that big enough to have the tuned pipe sitting inside the body? I would like something with a scale appearance, and not some ugly pipe coming out in the middle ontop.

martno1fan

Looks similar to the cobra hulls from vern?.If its 42" i doubt a pipe will fit inside to be honest.
Mart

BarnacleNZ

thanks mart, at what size, or width for that matter can you fit a pipe in the side??

jacob711

i think you may be able to fit a pipe in there, but a 90 degree header will mean that the pipe comes out through the transom a few inches, otherwise you may be able to do the pipe forward like in this pic

otherwise the best option would be a quickdraw deep vee pipe, they make great power and should fit totally inside the boat and just the stinger comes through the transom http://www.quickdrawengines.com/Page_93.html http://www.quickdrawengines.com/Page_172.html

martno1fan

My 46" hull i build can just about fit a pipe inside shes 12 1/2" wide so id say 42" is too small.Heresa pic of the cobra hull this ones 52" but he makes em smaller too not sure its the same but looks similar.
Mart

BarnacleNZ

ah you guys are heaps of help
Jacob, those QD pipes are a bit more than im willing to spend haha... im thinking i could always make a header myself, as long as there is room inside, the rest will probably jsut be some creative bends

I dont think i would really like to go for a much larger hull... 40"ish is a convenient size for takign with me. I'll do a few measurements on my current hull in the morning... I actually stripped it down today, needed to make new stringers to fit with the clutch.

jacob711

the QD pipes are available as kits too so you can weld them up yourself, only $60us for a kit

a standard type pipe with a deep vee type header may work if you don't mind losing a few kph, that type header is usually a bit too long to tune the pipe for max performance

but either way like mart says it may not even fit, i have seen a pipe inside a pretty small hull though

noahdear

My Feedback: (2)

Deep vee headers are way too long to get the motor on-pipe.

martno1fan

While deep vee headers dont allow for optimum performance they do allow the motor to get one pipe .For most applications they work just fine so if its not a race boat i wouldnt worry too much about it.
Mart

BarnacleNZ

I doubt im getting optimum performance now, i have a wtc header, so much the same as a deep vee header. Im using a 2"band BH hanson pipe at the moment. The QD Pipe kits actually look like a nice option to try. Approximatly what is the tuned length of the exhausts, from what point to where are the measured.

Also do pipes in the boats ever give problems from the heat the generate?? or do people get stuff melting or catching fire for that matter.

FlogginHarvey

For those that say the QD Deep Vee Pipes don't perform...I disagree. I won't go any farther than that. if I had the $$$ all of my monos would be the Deep Vee Pipe - PERIOD.

Deep Vee Headers are not to be confused with a QuickDraw Deep Vee Pipe. different deal altogether. The QD Pipe is a matched setup for the header, pipe, and silencer if it does not have the "internal stinger." They do get hot as they are steel and not aluminum so watch out for that. The tune length is down with the flex insert where the two steel pieces fit together. Mine is either 2 3/4" or 3" for my RCMK S254 EVO.

They are nice pipes, well thought out, and built well by Todd. I have one in my Dumas Scarab that weighs a TON and it moves right along. nothig else would fit...good combo I thought: nice, tight package, and tons of power, nice and quiet with the 6" silencer. The only down fall is they are expensive.

Justaddwata

My Feedback: (3)

Nick,

The hull is a copy of an Aeromarine 43" Challenger. The Aeromarine Challenger is a very good performing sport hull and responds well to the power of a Stock Zenoah. The Challengers are known to have some handling issues at the high end (the 48" version is terrible when pushing to go more than 45mph) though the 43" is a little more forgiving. The 43 is very maneuverable - similar to a cyclone or razer. They handle light chop reasonably well

I cannot lay claim to how the one your looking at truly works as it is a copy of a boat - but the boat it is copied from is a decent boat

http://www.aeromarinerc.com/index.ph...d=12&Itemid=53

BarnacleNZ

Ah yep that look like the boat alright.

I decided to set to work on making my wrap to center header into a deep vee header... think of it as a quick fix for now
dont think ive done too badly for now.



Just need to get some more welding supplies later today... i seem to have run out.
I would make it shorter, but that requires moving the engine further forward in the hull to the extent that i cant reach the starter anymore. but it fits ok in the hull. I had to bend it quite tight however.

Nick

apache 56

good work on the headed pipe. mr baracle , mate what are you welding your header pipes with .
just like to know. cheers mate...

BarnacleNZ

thanks mr apache
MIG, not using stainless, so the welds may rust it im not careful... no big deal.

jacob711

also try and cut out the bit shown in my picture and weld the bits back together to get the header shorter, and also push the pipe right up to near the bend on the header but make sure it still seals right, and then cut the exces so it goes no further than 10mm past the 2nd oring in the pipe, also running a 0 band pipe will work better if you have one sitting around

measuring the distance from the exhaust flange through all the bends to the center of the band on the pipe should be 12"-13"
my guess is than yours is 15"

you could probably paint the header with exhaust paint to stop it rusting

BarnacleNZ

Hi Jacob, i was going to shorten the lower part anyway however the upper part, if i took the straight bit out, which i would love to do, then it would mean the motor sits about another 1.5 inches forward, making it virtually impossible to reach the pullstarter. if it were a 0 band pipe it definatly would be possible. ill have a bit more of a look at it later and se if i can come up with something, but i definatly had given it some consideration
cheers for goign to the effort of making a diagram.
Nick

edit: just measured and its 15.5" from the flange to the middle of the band.

jacob711

ok so you only want the stinger to come through the transom

BarnacleNZ

yea thats my preference.