pipe resistance
hey guys setting up first 1/8th gasser after i install the pipe onto the motor and tighten the water cooled coupler down should it give easy resistence when rotating down to bolt to the support or fairly hard resistance? seems like the resistance i have if i run im going to leak water into the exhast and ot the motor .
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RE: pipe resistance
Get yourself a No Leak Flange set up From Gizmo.. They are great and the cheapest I have found.
The old style flange like you have will cause you nothing but grief. If you just touch the pipe or blow over in a wreck it will move your pipe andleak water into the exhaust and make your motor run terrible. Junk it and go with a no leak is my answer. Also make sure your pipe (if water cooled) has good orings on it so it doesn't leak in to the exhaust too. It needs to seal around your header. If your header is aluminum makes sure you have plenty of coolingto the pipeso it does not distort your header and leak there too. Good luck |
RE: pipe resistance
thats what i figured, so i have to purchase a whole new exhaust that figures . thats the last time i buy something used off any of these web sites thanx bro .
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RE: pipe resistance
Can't you separate the manifold-flange from the exhaust ?
If so ... new and/or thicker o-rings might help , sanding/filing the flange somewhat thinner , will also result in more pressure on the o-rings. |
RE: pipe resistance
Mike,
Did you use both o-rings. The header needs to be sandwiched between the two rings. I have never had a issue with those flanges if the oring's are installed properly and it should be tight enough to grip a stainless header. The aluminum headers they were originally designed for were thicker. You can take material off the mating surface of the outer flange and it would tighten it up even more. I always have to do this to the brand new no-leak design flanges to get them tight enough, also. No doubt a new style no leak prevents water from entering the system if you burn up your o-rings but the regular water cooled have been used successfully for years. Some still prefer them to the new style. If the o-rings aren't leaking the water cooled style like that engine has on it work very well. Thank you, Daniel |
RE: pipe resistance
There's nothing wrong with that Pipe, you just need to install it properly. It takes 2 o-rings , one on each side of the lip.
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RE: pipe resistance
there was only 1 oring in the box unless the 2nd one fell out?
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RE: pipe resistance
btw dan i had that motor started a few times yesterday just about got this thing rdy to get wet just have to seal radio box get this muffler fingered out and im rdy to rock n roll
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RE: pipe resistance
ORIGINAL: madmorgan there was only 1 oring in the box unless the 2nd one fell out? |
RE: pipe resistance
NO-LEAK MANIFOLD O-RINGS:
I recently searched for replacement o-rings for the no leak manifold. Not that mine were degraded but I agree with those who are convinced that repeat exposure to fuel and heat means that regular (at least annual) replacement is part of routine maintenance. While I never found a Web store where the item was specifically listed, I noticed that Maston's Web store has a page with an assortment of o-rings displayed. http://www.mastonsrcmarine.com/ Decided to call Maston's and not only do they have them but they have choices of materials in the two sizes needed. I went with the brown / white o-ring combo that Maston's is recommending. Here are some notes I have on how the two o-rings are installed. 1. The 3.0mm o-ring slips on the header. 2. The 3.5mm o-ring inserts in the outer flange 3. Place an exhaust manifold gasket (fiber or metal bonded) between the manifold and the cylinder 4. Install two screws - anti-seize compound optional Note on the exhaust manifold gasket - getting good results here with the Super Heavy Duty Steel Reinforced Graphite Exhaust Gaskets (big name for little part) part # (fd227) - from Dave's Discount Motors. The gasket never sticks, seals well and maintains it's original thickness. |
RE: pipe resistance
The o-rings for normal 7/8" No Leak flanges is a #212 o-ring which has the dimensions are 7/8" I.D. 1-1/8" O.D. with a 1/8" cross section.
The white teflons do make for a tighter crush initially but with only a little run time the header embeds itself in the teflon because teflon has like Zero resilience then it looses the tightness it had and starts to bypass exhaust. Best is both Viton and the cover cut enough that it smashes the o-rings into every nook and crany and is especially tight. Once the o-ring seeps one iota of exhaust the fire passing tbe o-ring just burns it up. |
RE: pipe resistance
i did a generic measure with the calips i put it around the finger trying no to distort the 1 oring that was in the housing behind the flange and it measured like 1.0156 in inch not mm so do i go with a 1in in od as i figure as nu tighten it down it will flatten ? and there has to be a diff between black orange white orings i seen 1 place had orings that would withstand 1200 f hmmmm looks like i wait a few more days b4 i get to play or as the elmira boat club would say test their rigs as they dont take theirs out to have fun.
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RE: pipe resistance
Is there more than one style of No Leak Manifolds being
sold with different o-rings? Some of the descriptions on these o-rings appears to be conflicting. I got my No Leak Manifold from ZippKits. It shipped with two green o-rings that look the same size at first glance but they are not. One is 3mm thick and the other is 3.5mm thick. It wasn't until I found the installation instructions I posted earlier (I did not write those - someone else posted them and they sure helped me) that I could figure out how to assemble it. Once the o-rings are in the correct positions it goes together easily. After I found out that there was a half milimeter difference in thickness, I tried to measure them before they were exposed to fuel or heat. Here are my measurements: #1 - 3.0mm thick; 22mm ID; 28mm OD (slips on header) #2 - 3.5mm thick; 21mm ID; 28mm OD (inserts in housing) The fact that the OD is the same on both makes it easy to assume (just like I did initially) that there is no difference. I have not needed to relieve anything on my No Leak Manifold to get a tight seal but I can see where that could be benefical. I have installed and removed my manifold several times and it seals well every time I put it back on. I once thought the colors of these rings was an industry standard and we could always tell the composition by the color. Not true. I did some searching on different o-ring manufactuers pages and the truth is they can and do make practically any composition in any color they want. Don't take my word - check it out. There may be composition tendencies based on color but there is no industry wide standard using colors to indicate composition. I did not belabor the composition issue when on the phone with Maston's. He recommended a combination I'm not familiar with and I told him I would be glad to try it his way. I agree that Viton is an excellent choice - good resistance to petrolium products and good heat tolerance. |
RE: pipe resistance
i guess that is probably true for just about anything theres no stabdard for anything anymore i will try the 1 1/8th orings first and see if the hold up they fit nicely and the flange tightened up nice i guess it will be trial and error like anything else . if it isnt raining later today im getting this beast wet wish me luck lol. although i dont think these orings are going to stand up . any1 have any ideas about how much heat is coming off this exhaust port ?
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RE: pipe resistance
I would run what you have and keep a close
watch for manifold leaks. Once the leaking starts - the tuned pipe performance is interfered with - the engine cannot run normally. Also the exhaust gases start flowing by the o-rings and whatever is left of them gets damaged more = the leak gets worse. I suspect that the best way to resolve this is get with boaters in your area. Compare your hardware with theirs and see/measure their o-rings. These are "special" o-rings in both size and composition. If that is not doable - just order a new manifold from ZippKits or any of the fine distributors you have read about here like Maston's or Gizmo. If you get a new manifold - before you run it stop and carefully measure the OEM o-rings. This will be your best guide to finding replacements that fit and handle the heat. These engines require very little in terms of maintenance but keeping a tight exhaust, making sure the carb/fuel intake is not leaking, occasionally checking torque on the cylinder screws, avoid alcohol blended fuel (at least drain the fuel after running) and don't try to see how long a spark plug can last will keep the fun going. |
RE: pipe resistance
i think i will order the 1 1/8th 1/8 thick vitons 400 to 600 and resist oil and gas
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RE: pipe resistance
Correction on post dated 9/2/11 by NailHead:
The following quoted text was incorrect - my bad. >I went with the brown / white o-ring >combo that Maston's is recommending. The new o-rings from Maston's arrived today and the correct color description should have been brown and orange. Now for dimensions - it's the same as the green OEM o-rings that shipped with the manifold. Brown = 3.5mm thick; 21mm ID; 28mm OD (this thicker brown one inserts in the housing) Orange = 3.0mm thick; 22mm ID; 28mm OD (this thinner orange one slips onto the header) Part numbers: #212V and #212S |
RE: pipe resistance
had boat out yesterday for maiden run she dove and stalled 5 foot out recovered adjusted low needle about 1/16th turn in and high needle about 1/8th in she got up on plane running pretty decent forgot to raise antenna on tx she got out of range i let off throttle raised antenna i wasnt quick enough she stalled . recovered it had a touch of oil on plug but it isnt fouled , checked orings they still look new, had a bit of oil on end of pipe (running down) am i running rich or did i put to much oil in gas mix i put in 10 oz penzoil 2 stroke ?
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RE: pipe resistance
Use 8 oz oil per gallon or 16/1 ratio.
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RE: pipe resistance
i believe this motor is still in break in period daniel place sold it to me and he said it had about 1/2 gallon through it break in is after about 1 gallon correct me if im wrong
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RE: pipe resistance
You are going to want to check to see if your pipe and manifold set up are sealed up and not letting water in the exhaust system somewhere. To do this just pull the hose loose from the pickup (rudder) if that's where it's at and plug the outlet (where the water goes out) with your finger. Blow thru the hose and if it is sealed up no air will escape, This is what you want. If air escapes then you have a leak at the exhast flange or around the pipe orings which seal around the header. Wet coming out of the pipe might mean water is leaking somewhere in your set up... This is always agood practice to get used to and should be checked always to make sure there is no exhaust/water problems. Simple thing to do..
Good luck and hope I explained it so you can check it out yourself. |
RE: pipe resistance
i checked that by putting some water in that line plugged off that outlet and put my airbrush nozzle in and input 30 psi in pickup end no water escaped so im thinking it sealed
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RE: pipe resistance
As long as that checks the whole cooling system then I think you'll be ok. Just remember that any smallmisalignment of the pipe can cause it to leak that's why the old school stuff can cause grief..
No leak flange is still the way to go in my book. Have Fun! |
RE: pipe resistance
im running dual pickup 1 to head 1 to exhaust flange
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