Lauterbach build.......
 

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1990262http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1990263A continued by product of my thread in which I found a Blazer 52" Lauterbach kit.
The Kit turned up today, Big thanks to the fellow RCU member for the help.
I set up a building board today, 2 layers of 18mm mdf glued and screwed together, flat as! I'm going to cover it with silicon paper to avoid sticking the boat to the board.
The first thing I did was to trace all parts onto suitable size paper, number and mark the wood used. This is actually for a future project where I have an idea I will scratch build a 100cc scaled boat, somewhere round the 7 foot or 1/3 scale.
Right now it's the 52" I'm looking forward to getting into.
I have numbered and labeled all the kit pieces and set them into what seems to be a build order.
The quality of the wood looks very good and the cnc cutting is superb with a couple of pieces being laminated for doubles the match is 100%.
Im going to be using a mix of glues for the build with the bulk being west system epoxy with different additives, CA for tacking and polyurethane for laminates.
I'll try to keep up a few photos on the way and ask questions as I'm sure I'll have many.
I have most of my hardware ordered and on the way, as I go through the build I'll list exactly what I'm using, it will be a stock G26 for the power.
attached a couple of pics of the full size.

Just curious, why not use epoxy for laminating rather than buying the polyurethane? I'd mix up the epoxy, laminate the parts that required it and use any left over for building the boat as far as can be done at that point. Then again, I also build multiple boats at one time to use up all the epoxy I mix in a batch

Hi Hydro Junkie, good point about the epoxy, I guess I've always used the polly for laminates, it's water proof and tends to stick pretty bloody well. the non foaming ones really do work well, you'll peel plywood layers apart before you split or pull the glue. My plan is to assemble the base framing, hit all joints with med ca then mix a batch of epoxy with silica (micro balloons) to a suitable consistency that won't droop but will still stick, pipe it around all joints with a small piping bag ( im a pastry chef by trade ) then brush it into a nice fillet with a small firm brush. Then I dust all joints with talc and brush it again, makes very tidy glue fillets that have a consistent radius and look superb. To be honest I'm a bit lazy about mixing epoxy until I need to. All framing and sheeting will be done with epoxy. Cheers

Extreme rain here in Christchurch but the workshop is warm.
Finished laminating all the doublets tonight and have done a dry layup to check I've got it all correct, with a bit of shuffling I have it ready to tack together tomorrow. Still have to cover the board with paper and block sand a few parts that will be visible to remove the slight scalding produced by the cutting process. Loving the size I of the boat. Back to the $2 mart to get a bunch more bulldog clips.

About 85% framed now, all tacked with CA ready for epoxy, she has come out flat as a die and very square.
i need to source sone nice vaneere for the sheeting now, I don't want it too dark like most mahogany more like a dark blond vaneere.
next few days I'll machine up the threaded plate for the turn fin bracket that will be glued onto the inside of the RH sponson transom.
i intend to use a bit of 3oz glass in a few places for strength as I go.
im pretty keen to lay up an end grain balsa core in the rear floor or bottom bilge as was done with the full size build, only a thought at this stage. Once I finish the complete framing I'll spray the whole frame in good quality sanding sealer before I put any sheeting on her

Quiet day but got the rest top stringers on and most of the 1/8x1/8 batons on the top side, next and probably one of the most important steps is to dry fit and trim the Non Trip sheeting, I really want to make a good job of them so the rear I sheeting and botton fit real nice.
Then it's on with the epoxy on every joint, big job.

Looks good!

Got onto the non trip.today and although a bit tricky they came up really good, sanded the bottom edge in and straight edged it, perfect.
I'll sand in the junction line after I've epoxied the inside joints.
i also finished the sponson framing and most of the glue support strips.

Turn fin mounting block out of 6mm T6. I gave the gluing face a real hard time for better adhesion, epoxied in with west system and silica,Solid

My junction gluing technique with epoxy and silica mix.

Thanks christina977 enjoying the build

Now I'm well under way I have a couple of questions about running gear and radio.
what is the best lube for flexi shafts? I have plenty of light weight lithium grease used for the likes of push bike parts and I've used it in all my fishing reels for years, it's reported to repel water very well. As for radio, I have a spectrum DX8 with loads of receivers, hundreds of hours on Rc planes with no issues at all, or is there a better option with a trigger and wheel radio. Cheers

I like the futaba radio's I have a 3PM 2.4 fasst with either a futaba R603 FS or R603FF receiver. Never had a problem with it in boats. I have heard some bad things about spectrum in boats. Maybe someone else will chime in with some more info on spectrum. As far as shaft lube I have tried several. Marine wheel bearing grease has worked well for me. I have also tried the shaft lube that cc racing sells and it works very well to. The stuff you have should work well. The build is coming along very good.

thanks for for that, I may look at getting a purpose surface radio, but will do usual range checks etc and have fail safe on.

A few shinny bits turned up today, good looking quality all round.

Got the rear bottom sheeting on tonight, final block sand of the frame and bottom edge of the non trip, pre fit of bottom including the mid section, I've decided to build the bottom sheeting on in 3 sections. I piped a thin line of thickened epoxy on all bottom frame work then laid the sheeting on, taped in places with masking tape, turned the boat over and checked every thing was in place :-) weighted the hull on the building board and ran over all the bottom frames with a Luke warm hot air gun, this lets the glue flow just a touch, this is controlled warm heat not an all soy assault with a flame thrower. When the framing glue was pretty tacky I ran over the joints and junctions with another mix of the same glue, piped it in the joints, about a 3mm bead then fingered and brushed in the radius. Weights back on and I'll leave it till tomorrow. One of my biggest goals when doing this sheeting is to avoid as much glue as possible from squeezing out to the outside sheeting.

Mid and bow sections all built on, very happy with the fit and gluing.
the prop and rudder turned up today, really nice cnc work on the rudder.

Hi Zen40,
Great looking build of an Iconic Kiwi boat. Remember seeing it race locally. I'm out in Rangiora and run on a local pond. Phone 033138895.
Phil

Hi Phil,
cheers, I'll give you a call c
soon, didn't know where anyone runs boats in Christchurch .

Looks good so far!!

Thanks.

Port sidehttp://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1990303 sponson side sheeting going on.http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1990302And transom sanded in.

Just a question as I go and think about hardware setup. What is the method of trimming a flexi shaft inner? Cheers

once you have the correct measurement for the shaft, mark the shaft and cut it with some type of grinder with a cutoff wheel. I just use a 4 1/2 angle grinder. I have also used a die grinder as well. don't forget to cut the shaft long enough so that you have a 1/4 inch gap between the strut bushing and prop drive dog.

Thanks very much, I have heard some folk silver solder the section where the cut is to be made than cut once it is soldered, sounds like a sound plan.