proove pulling hard to the left
 

ok prop is sharp enough to cut you. boat needs full right rudder to run straight and turns right poorly. I am running a 275 prop and zippkitts hardware. NEED HELP any ideas?

what kind of hull is a Proove ?

Zippkits ProVee

should be provee, dumb fingers strike again.

well now the prop walking mono. you mention the prop is sharp and well balanced i hope, is there any offset in the strut ? is it square to the transom ? how much rudder is below the back of hull [ transom ] ?

Post a couple pictures of the rear of boat - way easier than everyone guessing at what you have right or wrong

And recheck your set up with the Zipp manual ? http://www.zippkits.com/pvman.pdf

Randy

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2208523http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2208524http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2208525http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2208526 took everything off and redid it , will see what happens this weekend

would have thought the expert mistycreekboats would have given a correct answer by now but maybe he doesn,t know what to say. lol.
anyway all does look good on the transom , no down positive angle on the strut / prop , plenty of rudder in the water as so the turn fins. is the strut square with the transon ? one other thing , where does this model balance ? hope its not nose down.

Let us know how it runs after the re-rigging. No sense commenting until then - would just be keyboard guess.

Nice pics

Always nice to see guys with "Real Gas" boats posting pics of their builds.

Looks Good -- good luck testing

remove the velocity stack from the carby as there no good for air intake.

Is it me or is there portions needing more edge honing.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2208569

the edge does look to be abit blunt as you say Pond Skipper.

He says the boat is pulling to the left. A blunt prop would make it pull to the right.

makes the stern pull to the right but the nose goes to the left.

Yes we need a better look at the prop, transom kicks to the right and bingo you have
a weak right turn capacity. Can you take a few close ups pics of the area in question on the prop?

Also your rudder has an apparent kick to the left see pic for reference. Can cause lift on the right side
of the transom and push the bow left. :rolleyes:


http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2208618

And here is another issue you have the right turn fin deeper than the left
The adverse drag will cause the right turn fin to lift the right side of the
transom and induce more left bow influence.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2208622

ok I moved starboard tune fin everything strait now, thinned the prop more, cg at 31%, rudder is square just need to go to pond for more testing, thanks for the help guy's

Great, enjoy rip up some watah!!

noticed the turns fins have there sharpened face on the inner side facing the transoms center. normally the turn fins should have the sharp area on the outer side. try the sharps on the outer sides.

Uh, have you ever run an R/C boat? Anyone who has done so knows that prop walk from a dull prop causes the transom to be pulled left, pointing the boat to the right. This is basic boating 101.......



.

A dull prop will walk the stern to the left and make the bow go to the right unless you are running a reverse rotation motor.. Doug

sorry my mistake was thinking in a different thought. yes i have run boats for many years [ got rpm ] maybe longer than you have been ,going back to non proportional radio . my only times of some minor prop walking has been due to strut s or stingers being out of square to transom and hulls running surface blunt props have never really been an issue as alot of testing was done with new props that were borrowed from certain shop guys so the prop had to stay clean and new. so lets now waite and see what the verdict is when Fuma does his next test run. unless you have the magic answer that is .

General comment from the above pics. If you are running a collet at the engine (which appears to be the case) I would have a greater distance between the drive dog and the strut, as the flex shortens under power you are at risk of snapping your flex and losing everything out the back. The washer you have between the prop and propnut should be between drive dog and strut to prevent potential metal/metal contact.
Also, I prefer to have some propshaft behind the propnut.

I built one a year ago and unfortunately it's only been in the water for a few seconds before the motor went, blew out the bearing seals.
That's a lot of prop, I'm starting with a 2714/4 as it should work well with the new engine in it.
Ditch that idle speed screw as you don't need it, just use the transmitter for idle speed adjustment.
All of the holes for everything on the transom should have already been marked for their position. I used all Zippkits hardware but the only change I made was to use his regular turn fin instead of the ones in the package deal. I know it works as I have it on my Rampage and those supplied seemed to be too small for me.

blew the bearing seals hey. bet i know what crankcase you had the bearings in.

there is over 1/4 inch gap at the drive dog, what washer? there is no washer and why more threads behind prop? I did mount turnfins In holes by zippkitts starboard holes too high or too low from zipp