advanced builder

Your K&B 40 looks like a perfect fit chief, I'm not sure if I'll ever run that hull. I'll go back and revive my old post on the Miss Unlimited. I also added some exhaust pipes from Areomarine. I also added some fiberglass tissue to the wing. It's nice in the sun. The OPS runs OK I have 3 of em, they all sit in the engine parts bin. I ran the OPS in a Aeromarine MM 18 last year. I run Nova Rossi and a CMB long stroke that think is a real power house. Picco P5 ,then comes the OPS ,K&B.21 last place.

megamaxx

started the build yesterday,start building the skeleton tomorrow morning,these instructions a vague,holy crap!!!! would not ever recommend this kit for a first time builder! and must say i am very unimpressed with the quality of the material in the box!!!

chief3452

Hey Megamaxx, you're right, the instructions are kind of a joke and the wood is just awful. If you want your boat to be as nice as possible do not put it together with the supplied wood. Use the kit as a template and trace the parts onto good quality wood. The only supplied wood I would use is the decking. If you have to use the supplied wood framing be sure and use plenty of stick wood 1/8, 3/16, or 1/4" square, whatever your local hobby shop stocks, to brace the framing. This will give you stronger glue joints and lengthen the life of your model considerably. Don't forget to make lightening holes and windows in the frames to trim weight. The supplied wood will become flimsy after you cut out the lightening areas but the stick wood will help keep things rigid as you glue it together. Looking forward to your build, good luck!

Hydro Junkie

DAMN Chief, that is what I tell everyone too
I have pretty much given up on Dumas kits, directions and materials are garbage. I'm only building a 20 sized Pak kit because the wife wants it and that means it will rarely see the water[X(] The stick advice is good info as well. I'm doing that to the Pak for the same reason, increase the strength AND hull life.

megamaxx

thanks all,thanks for the input......i picked up extra wood over the weekend when i got supplies,due to the fact alot of the Dumas wood,split,separated,or chipped just removing it from the box and getting set on the bench.then removing the pieces with there incomplete punches just makes it just that much more fun!!!!but it is just what i wanted, a challenging time consuming build!!!!

megamaxx

ok step 4 has got me,it says make a strut plate out of 1/8 ply(scrap) to space the struts i assume,but does not tell me the length so i know how far to space them and how far up part E is supposed to be from the back of the boat!!!

chief3452

If I remember the strut plate is actually a 1/8" doubler glued to the hull bottom in the center most rearward section. This is to reinforce the propshaft strut if you chose to pass it thru the hull bottom. I did mine that way, but I wouldn't recommend it or do it that way again. I would mount the strut on the transom as it is much easier to adjust and tune the hull. If you could post a picture of the area or the instruction sheet that would be helpful.

advanced builder

That spare ply is IFyou plan on a bottom strut as to a transom strut. Yes it's legal IMPBA You can run a transom strut. All them RTR hulls are setup that way.

advanced builder

My fat fingers,can't get inside to the transom . Here I use a good grade of plywood, trace out the Dumas transom.. Then lay mahogany Drill and put in blind T nuts. or a threaded brass insert
THROW AWAY the Dumas Transom. You will never have to get back there again. This is what I planed to use in the back My rudder base was modified to accept Yes it works
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...4&I=LXET58&P=K

advanced builder

look here