proboat hydro
#5
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RE: proboat hydro
i took it out 2 weeks ago for break in cant wait to tune the engine i had also owned the proboat vortex .46 which i found to be really heavy compared to this one
#6
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RE: proboat hydro
Have you made any upgrades to it yet? You can increase the speed by 7-10mph with a metal prop, new turn fin and once broken in, you can remove some head shims and increase to 50% nitro.
#8
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RE: proboat hydro
I use a grim racer 36X55 and GrimRacer 18 Hydro Turn Fin-Polished from Aquacraft. I also am using O'Donnell Boat fuel. I highly recommend their 20% nitro boat fuel for break in and then move up to 50%once you run about 7 tanks of fuel through the engine.
#11
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RE: proboat hydro
Actually Miss Hydro, it all depends on your location for the carb settings. Personally, when I first got my boat, I have to turn it out to 3 3/4 turns to run it rich during break in. Then I turned it in to 2 1/2 to 2 1/4 turns depending on the weather.
#15
RE: proboat hydro
Leave the .18 in the boat. As Misshydro can attest, a .21 is too much for that boat. I don't think she's had hers past half throttle since she put a .21 in the boat as due to the boat's balance, they tend to want to flip before you can use the additional power the .21 has to offer over the .18
#16
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RE: proboat hydro
If you can get the engine just right during tuning, you don't need to change the engine. Here is what I did to upgrade mine, and I am running high 30s to low 40's.
The changes I made to the Formula were quite extensive except replacing the engine. The rear strut now contains boca bearings which reduce friction on the drive dog. I replaced the standard receiver with a Spektrum Marine receiver. I removed both servos and replaced them with HPI Racing waterproof servos. I am now using a Spektrum rechargeable battery to power the receiver. The new servos have been re-epoxied to the hull, as the original ones were a little loose from the factory. I then removed the original power switch with a nice Spektrum power switch and attached it to the radio box cover. The new prop an Octura Y535 has been sharpened and balanced from Props4U. And last but not least, replaced bushings in the motor and put in boca bearings. This thing should really go. I also don't have to worry about water getting into the hull since I am using all marine equipment.
The changes I made to the Formula were quite extensive except replacing the engine. The rear strut now contains boca bearings which reduce friction on the drive dog. I replaced the standard receiver with a Spektrum Marine receiver. I removed both servos and replaced them with HPI Racing waterproof servos. I am now using a Spektrum rechargeable battery to power the receiver. The new servos have been re-epoxied to the hull, as the original ones were a little loose from the factory. I then removed the original power switch with a nice Spektrum power switch and attached it to the radio box cover. The new prop an Octura Y535 has been sharpened and balanced from Props4U. And last but not least, replaced bushings in the motor and put in boca bearings. This thing should really go. I also don't have to worry about water getting into the hull since I am using all marine equipment.
#17
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RE: proboat hydro
There is no need to put a .21 in your boat it will cause you more frustration than Fun. There are Plenty of Other .18 engines out there, and A Lot of room for Improvement\Modification [>:],,, that will push that hull beyond it's limits. A Well Built\Modified .18 can push any of the .18 hydros well into the High 40's and even into the 50 mph range. Without A LOT of Hull work and reconfiguring the PB Hydro hits It's limit in the low 40mph range, with some weight redistribution you can get one to stay on the water up in the higher speeds BUT,, It's a serious balancing act and they Will Dance across the water and get Loose real Quick.
heres a few pics of Some of My Experiments
Formula with an O.S 18
you have to do a little Tweaking on the header and top of carb to make the O.S cvrm .18 work with the Stock PB header...
Here it is with a Go .18 Non Pull start, engine moved forward, fuel tank changed out to a Sullivan Soft Side tank, and double hump battery placed in Front of the engine. I also have the MACS Header but I cut it and Modified it to stay to the port side instead of Wrap to Center.
Also it's helps a bunch to cut the plastic Cup out of the Scoop it acts like a great big Sail or Wind Brake
And just to share a little battery info,,, the NiMh 5 cell 6v packs weight about 1/4lb[X(]
A 400mAh Lipo and a UBEC weigh about 2oz (1/8lb) and you can run All Day on a charge.
For you guys running the SPEKTRUM set (like ME) you DON'T Need the UBEC the 7.2v lipo battery will plug right in to your RX and work JUST FINE.
A 200mAh LiPo weighs about 1oz and will give you a good Afternoon of running before you need to Check it's Charge.
I personally prefer the Octura Props The Y535 or the M435\3 are good props for the Stock set up. I Prefer the 3 Blade props on most my hydros for the exceleration out of the turns and added lift to the transom which helps keep the Bow Down.
Here it is with the Modifief O.S cvrm just after break in.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=domrdrbrgG0&feature=channel_video_title[/youtube]
heres a few pics of Some of My Experiments
Formula with an O.S 18
you have to do a little Tweaking on the header and top of carb to make the O.S cvrm .18 work with the Stock PB header...
Here it is with a Go .18 Non Pull start, engine moved forward, fuel tank changed out to a Sullivan Soft Side tank, and double hump battery placed in Front of the engine. I also have the MACS Header but I cut it and Modified it to stay to the port side instead of Wrap to Center.
Also it's helps a bunch to cut the plastic Cup out of the Scoop it acts like a great big Sail or Wind Brake
And just to share a little battery info,,, the NiMh 5 cell 6v packs weight about 1/4lb[X(]
A 400mAh Lipo and a UBEC weigh about 2oz (1/8lb) and you can run All Day on a charge.
For you guys running the SPEKTRUM set (like ME) you DON'T Need the UBEC the 7.2v lipo battery will plug right in to your RX and work JUST FINE.
A 200mAh LiPo weighs about 1oz and will give you a good Afternoon of running before you need to Check it's Charge.
I personally prefer the Octura Props The Y535 or the M435\3 are good props for the Stock set up. I Prefer the 3 Blade props on most my hydros for the exceleration out of the turns and added lift to the transom which helps keep the Bow Down.
Here it is with the Modifief O.S cvrm just after break in.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=domrdrbrgG0&feature=channel_video_title[/youtube]
#18
RE: proboat hydro
DAMN DUDE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
That is the best I've ever seen one of the Pro Boat hydros run. I just hope my .18 powered Dumas Pak runs as good as that boat does when I get it finished
That is the best I've ever seen one of the Pro Boat hydros run. I just hope my .18 powered Dumas Pak runs as good as that boat does when I get it finished
#19
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RE: proboat hydro
thanks guys for the advice and thanks for sending me pics and video of your hydro amax. i noticed you have changed your fuel tank what run times are you getting compared to the stock? i was thinking of changing mine but did not know what tank to go for.
#20
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RE: proboat hydro
firestone
I used the Sullivan 8oz SS tank which is about the same size as the stock tank so run time are similar. I also removed the upright Tabs from the stock tank mount and Epoxied Velcro to the floor and bottom of tank (don't use Sticky Back Velcro the glue will not hold up to nitro fuel) What i was trying to accomplish with the SS tank is getting the weight (CG) Forward and room to move the engine forward also for weight distribution. It did help but Not Enough for the speeds I was pushing it to. If I knew Then what I know NOW,,, I would have put a LiPo in the radio box and moved the engine Further Forward
HJ
I built that boat a few years ago, it actually ran better than that with the Go 18 in it but I didn't get any vids before it did a triple back flip somewhere in the High 40's and K.O'd It.
You shouldn't have any problem getting your hydro to run like that with a CVRM and some Tweaking as long as your Not Building a Lead Sled ,, Miss A comes in just over 6lb and is running 50mph with a .18,, Granted it IS Highly Modified and running on 60%\12% Nitro, it's Still Just an .18[8D]
I used the Sullivan 8oz SS tank which is about the same size as the stock tank so run time are similar. I also removed the upright Tabs from the stock tank mount and Epoxied Velcro to the floor and bottom of tank (don't use Sticky Back Velcro the glue will not hold up to nitro fuel) What i was trying to accomplish with the SS tank is getting the weight (CG) Forward and room to move the engine forward also for weight distribution. It did help but Not Enough for the speeds I was pushing it to. If I knew Then what I know NOW,,, I would have put a LiPo in the radio box and moved the engine Further Forward
HJ
I built that boat a few years ago, it actually ran better than that with the Go 18 in it but I didn't get any vids before it did a triple back flip somewhere in the High 40's and K.O'd It.
You shouldn't have any problem getting your hydro to run like that with a CVRM and some Tweaking as long as your Not Building a Lead Sled ,, Miss A comes in just over 6lb and is running 50mph with a .18,, Granted it IS Highly Modified and running on 60%\12% Nitro, it's Still Just an .18[8D]
#21
RE: proboat hydro
If my my kit boat is anywhere close to my remanufacturered one, it's not going to be that heavy. The remanufactured boat weighes in at 5lb 12.8oz and I figure I'm going to be adding another ounce or so to it as well as some nose weight in the left sponson so it will be close to the Miss A you mentioned. I plan on building a second remanufactured boat and I plan on making it lighter yet, time will tell on that one
#23
RE: proboat hydro
ORIGINAL: firestone
Hydro Junkie
good luck with your project.
Hydro Junkie
good luck with your project.