Another K&B .40 O/B question
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Another K&B .40 O/B question
Morning all,
I was running my outboards yesterday and discovered my K&B .40 had locked up. I figured it would be an engine bearing which didn't suprise me considering the age of the engine and how it had been stored the last decade or so. Took it all apart and discovered a third bearing in the engine mounting plate that goes to the out drive. I don't know the proper name for it but that was the culprit. It was bone dry.The engine turns over freely and I can't detect any bearing issues with it. This third bearing is nearly locked up though. I've soaked it in oil to see if I can get it turning again but clearly it will have to be replaced. Is this a common failure point in this engine? I have another one that wasn't stored properly either and will go ahead and replace that one also. If it is a common problem is there a maintenance step that can be taken or do I just need to order this bearing in bulk? Thanks.
Rick H.
I was running my outboards yesterday and discovered my K&B .40 had locked up. I figured it would be an engine bearing which didn't suprise me considering the age of the engine and how it had been stored the last decade or so. Took it all apart and discovered a third bearing in the engine mounting plate that goes to the out drive. I don't know the proper name for it but that was the culprit. It was bone dry.The engine turns over freely and I can't detect any bearing issues with it. This third bearing is nearly locked up though. I've soaked it in oil to see if I can get it turning again but clearly it will have to be replaced. Is this a common failure point in this engine? I have another one that wasn't stored properly either and will go ahead and replace that one also. If it is a common problem is there a maintenance step that can be taken or do I just need to order this bearing in bulk? Thanks.
Rick H.
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RE: Another K&B .40 O/B question
The rear PTO bearing doesn't get lubricated very well and water gets into it through the lower unit. It's common practice to remove the power head after each day's running and be sure the bearing gets some of the same after run oil you put through the rest of the engine. Marine engines and high nitro fuels require after run oil immediately after a day's running to prevent catastrophic bearing failure.
Lohring Miller
Lohring Miller
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RE: Another K&B .40 O/B question
Interesting, I didn't realize that. Sounds like outboards are a lot more work than most other engines. Is after run adequate. Would grease help or cause problems? Guess I'd better get to work. Does this same hold true for the .21 OB's? Thanks.
Rick H.
Rick H.
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RE: Another K&B .40 O/B question
To get the bearings out, clean the parts really well and place in the oven, after about 10 mins take it out and knock the bearings out. Hold the pto with a welding glove and knock/slap it on a piece of wood. I use a roll of electrical tape to knock onto- the hole in the center of the roll of tape is big enough to let the bearing drop out. I hold the tape roll and pto together and knock on wood. Try to knock squarely as possible. To install, heat the pto case again and the new bearings will just fall in- you can put the bearings in the freezer in a sealed bag to make it even easier if you want. When cold, use a socket that only touches the outer part of the bearing and gently tap to make sure the bearings are seated correctly- it's all in the sound in this step- the sound will dull when they are done. They will most likely be fine if they dropped in easily. The hardest part is removing the pto shaft. Use a punch to tap it out of the bearings and housing. Chances are one bearing will stay on the pto shaft- this is the only harder part. I use a pair of parrot beak cable cutters that the blades just fit enough between the bearing and pto shaft plated end- hold firmly and then just tap out the shaft. I will try and get on the PCM and upload some pics for you. I heat my oven to about 170*c and check at about 5-10 mins. Do it when the wife is out or get a little pie warmer/ toaster oven for the shed. Don't bother with trying to free bearings up, they are done!!! You don't need the most expensive bearings for the pto.
All the best,
Dion.
All the best,
Dion.
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RE: Another K&B .40 O/B question
Yep, the one bearing stayed on the shaft ad predicted. Actually that one is in good shape. Interesting, I don't see any way for the lower bearing to get any sort of lubrication at all. I'll give Boca a call and get new ones for both engines. The spare engine doesn't look as though it's been run much if at all. The outside looks used but it's nice and shiny on the inside. Thanks for all of the information. I'll let you know when it gets running, hopefully next week.
Rick H.
Rick H.
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RE: Another K&B .40 O/B question
Go to Joe Monohan at 707specialties.com for all your k&b stuff, he is in ca and is great to deal with!! I would probably get that next bearing of the shaft and replace it to be on the safe side.
Cheers,
Dion.
Cheers,
Dion.
#9
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RE: Another K&B .40 O/B question
F1, the last time that I checked, Joe's site was offline. MECOA is a PITA to deal with so you're much better off finding a K&B dealer. For many years now I've been using Gary Preusse, just outside of Chicago. If Gary doesn't have it, it can't be gotten as far as K&B parts go. No website so you have to call him. 630-279-2451.
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RE: Another K&B .40 O/B question
Hi Ron, The site was down for a little but just checked and all is good. I have heard Gary is good. I am glad there are still a few guys to get parts from other than mecoa, but they have been good to me also.
Cheers,
Dion.
Cheers,
Dion.
#11
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RE: Another K&B .40 O/B question
The link that I have for 707 still isn't working, maybe he has a new site?
The last time I talked to Gary, he had some K&B .45 powerheads that he just got in which aren't that easy to get. He's also as Nelson Engines dealer and has to assemble them himself. They're strong .45's but they take special expensive glow plugs.
The last time I talked to Gary, he had some K&B .45 powerheads that he just got in which aren't that easy to get. He's also as Nelson Engines dealer and has to assemble them himself. They're strong .45's but they take special expensive glow plugs.
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RE: Another K&B .40 O/B question
after i run my k&b outboards i flood them with WD 40 use lots let it sit a few min remove glow plug and spin the engine over with the starter rember to plaxe a cloth over plug hole to prevent fluid frome going all over the place then i use afterrun oil also if the boat is put away for the winter i remove flex shaft and place in a container coated in grease
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RE: Another K&B .40 O/B question
You're right, pulling the powerhead and lubricating isn't all that bad a job, just did all three of mine after running yesterday. I stole the whole PTO unit from my spare engine while I order new bearings for both engines. The new unit has good bearings and I made sure they had plenty of lubricant to keep them that way. It ran fine for about 4 tanksfull yesterday. I'm starting to get these engines figured out which has been harder than I expected. I've been running nitro engines for more than 40 years but tuning these OB's by sound is a different proposition. I'm not running them too hard apparently and the pond water must pretty cool because none of the engines have been very hot after 4-6 minute runs. Still had make several runs out in the retrieval boat though....
Rick H.
Rick H.
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RE: Another K&B .40 O/B question
Spray wd-40 in the water lines also to prevent corrosion and you may want to restrict water flow to get the temp up a bit , richer the needle if it keeps quitting and get the tank as high as possible. All good tips I have been taught