Asking for some veteran help building my first Gas/Nitro Kit!
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Asking for some veteran help building my first Gas/Nitro Kit!
Hello all!,
You can call me Brendon.
Bit about me, I used to own a few trucks when I was younger, the epitome being a Slash 4x4 ultimate but I got out of the hobby for a few years when I sold all that stuff. Well being that I live lakefront I'm looking to build a nitro boat kit. I'm sure that I wish to do nitro over electric. I've had my fun in electric on land with my trucks and I would prefer combustion.
I have knowledge on radio control and everything inside an RC setup so I am not entirely newbie, but in terms of boats and Nitro you could say I am.
So my plan is that over the next few months leading up to summer I would like to purchase a hull kit, engine, radio system etc and get a boat running. However past that I am lost. If any of you would be willing to lead me through these threads it would be greatly appreciated. I'm good enough with my hands to get things mounted and what not but I do shy away from laying fiberglass for things like mounts and what not
First things first lets narrow down a hull and a plan...
I am thinking a fiberglass mono V, shallow or deep I am unsure and don't have much of a preference.
So for the first topic, what do y'all recommend for hull kits and compatible engines?
To reiterate, where I really need guidance is the engine setup, what size (dependent on hull), company, etc.
Cost- At the moment this is a very vague image, since ill be purchasing a few parts every month this is less of a concern but I still would like to keep things reasonable, I don't necessarily want a $1,000 boat but we will see where it goes.
So I guess this thread is really just going to be a work in progress over the next months with the great people on here who I've gotten help from when I was younger.
P.S I MEANT TO INCLUDE THAT I AM ALSO INTERESTED IN DOING A GAS BOAT BUILD INSTEAD OF NITRO IF WE COULD KEEP COST THE SAME
You can call me Brendon.
Bit about me, I used to own a few trucks when I was younger, the epitome being a Slash 4x4 ultimate but I got out of the hobby for a few years when I sold all that stuff. Well being that I live lakefront I'm looking to build a nitro boat kit. I'm sure that I wish to do nitro over electric. I've had my fun in electric on land with my trucks and I would prefer combustion.
I have knowledge on radio control and everything inside an RC setup so I am not entirely newbie, but in terms of boats and Nitro you could say I am.
So my plan is that over the next few months leading up to summer I would like to purchase a hull kit, engine, radio system etc and get a boat running. However past that I am lost. If any of you would be willing to lead me through these threads it would be greatly appreciated. I'm good enough with my hands to get things mounted and what not but I do shy away from laying fiberglass for things like mounts and what not
First things first lets narrow down a hull and a plan...
I am thinking a fiberglass mono V, shallow or deep I am unsure and don't have much of a preference.
So for the first topic, what do y'all recommend for hull kits and compatible engines?
To reiterate, where I really need guidance is the engine setup, what size (dependent on hull), company, etc.
Cost- At the moment this is a very vague image, since ill be purchasing a few parts every month this is less of a concern but I still would like to keep things reasonable, I don't necessarily want a $1,000 boat but we will see where it goes.
So I guess this thread is really just going to be a work in progress over the next months with the great people on here who I've gotten help from when I was younger.
P.S I MEANT TO INCLUDE THAT I AM ALSO INTERESTED IN DOING A GAS BOAT BUILD INSTEAD OF NITRO IF WE COULD KEEP COST THE SAME
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Im most likely going to be pulling the trigger on a Zippkitts, the Easy Vee. Therefore I would be going with a Gasser. Do any of you guys have experience with this boat? Im thinking of throwing the Zenoah G260PUM with GZR Throttle Kit from Gizmomotors in it, I would post the link but I do not have permissions to do that yet How well would this engine work?
#5
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Providing you build this hull nice and true and leave nice and sharp lifting strakes under hull, the 26cc zenoah should give plenty of power for your needs. you will be able to buy just about all of the hardware for this mono hull from Zippkits as well. if you want something faster try the Zippkits Gas Rigger.
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Awesome I'm looking forward to the build, I should start ordering things this week and will hopefully get all parts in within a month. Can anyone give me an approximate on how much 30 min Epoxy, finishing epoxy, and Medium CA they used to complete the build. Thank you
#10
This is where I get a little "bent". In my way of thinking, there are two areas in a build that you ABSOLUTELY DO NOT SKIMP: EPOXY and RADIO GEAR
Since I use West Systems marine epoxy for all my builds, I always have a quart sized can of resin around, not to mention medium sized cans of four different hardeners. If you only plan on the one build, I'd go with the quart sized resin and small sized cans of either slow or very slow and coating hardeners, numbers 206, 209 and 207. My reason for this is simple, one quart sized can will cover your build, seal coating and repairs while the three hardeners will give you some flexibility in working time between the 206 and 209 hardeners while the 207 hardener will make the epoxy flow better as well as work with fiber glass. If you want your epoxy to cure harden quicker, you can get the 205 "quick cure" hardener as well. The reason I recommend this is it will give you plenty for reworks and repairs later. I'm not a fan of the equal part epoxies as they have never worked well for me. Conversely, West Systems has never failed me
Since I use West Systems marine epoxy for all my builds, I always have a quart sized can of resin around, not to mention medium sized cans of four different hardeners. If you only plan on the one build, I'd go with the quart sized resin and small sized cans of either slow or very slow and coating hardeners, numbers 206, 209 and 207. My reason for this is simple, one quart sized can will cover your build, seal coating and repairs while the three hardeners will give you some flexibility in working time between the 206 and 209 hardeners while the 207 hardener will make the epoxy flow better as well as work with fiber glass. If you want your epoxy to cure harden quicker, you can get the 205 "quick cure" hardener as well. The reason I recommend this is it will give you plenty for reworks and repairs later. I'm not a fan of the equal part epoxies as they have never worked well for me. Conversely, West Systems has never failed me
#11
My Feedback: (1)
I don't know when you're going to pull the trigger on getting the kit but Joe at Zippkits is getting ready to roll out a newer lower-profile Easy-Vee called the Super-Sport. A prototype will be at the Toledo Show in 2 weeks.
Plan on using a lot of epoxy. A good wood glue like Tite-Bond II or III comes in handy for a lot of areas although isn't mentioned in the Easy-Vee manual. Get a LOT of clamps of all sizes. Pay close attention to where the stringers come together at the nose. Make sure all parts fit properly as some pieces you can get wrong. Test fit pieces a few steps ahead to make sure everything aligns properly before applying glue.
Joe recommends using a plane to remove excess wood but I'm lazy. I used a Multi-tool for Harbor Freight as it makes quick work of taking it off. The one I built was when he was still using a CNC but ow he's using a laser cutter so parts fit should be more accurate.
Here's a shot of the Super-Sport.
Plan on using a lot of epoxy. A good wood glue like Tite-Bond II or III comes in handy for a lot of areas although isn't mentioned in the Easy-Vee manual. Get a LOT of clamps of all sizes. Pay close attention to where the stringers come together at the nose. Make sure all parts fit properly as some pieces you can get wrong. Test fit pieces a few steps ahead to make sure everything aligns properly before applying glue.
Joe recommends using a plane to remove excess wood but I'm lazy. I used a Multi-tool for Harbor Freight as it makes quick work of taking it off. The one I built was when he was still using a CNC but ow he's using a laser cutter so parts fit should be more accurate.
Here's a shot of the Super-Sport.