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Need Help Finishing Build of Dumas Ske Vee 10

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Need Help Finishing Build of Dumas Ske Vee 10

Old 08-31-2020, 09:35 PM
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ADV57
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Default Need Help Finishing Build of Dumas Ske Vee 10

Hi. I need help with the layout and mounting of my servos, fuel tank, battery and Receiver in my little Dumas Ske Vee 10. The motor is a Thunder Tiger PRO-MX15. I got a little help from Amain on what to order for electronics and fuel tank. I bought the recommended fuel tank which is a Traxxas 125cc and it turned out to be far too large for the boat, so I bought two different 75cc tanks to try out. I'll try to attach a couple of pictures which make it look like I have a ton of room to mount everything, but it's pretty cramped. Do I need to get a different size or style tank to give me a bit more room? I'm also not sure about the size of the battery they had me purchase. What is the best way for me to layout the tank, servos and battery? The Receiver is really small and not included in the pictures. Any help would be greatly appreciated and pictures would be even better! Thanks in advance for helping me stuff the tank and electronics in my little boat!

Well, I've tried to upload pics, but since I'm a new member, the forum won't let me until I post 10 times. That does make it a bit difficult to show what I need help with.


Last edited by ADV57; 09-01-2020 at 05:43 AM.
Old 09-01-2020, 01:51 AM
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Okay, I'm confused. Are you running nitro or electric? You're talking about fuel tanks, which means nitro motor, and ESC, which means electric drive. Are you sure you're not talking about the receiver when you say ESC? If so, they are totally different as an ESC is strictly a voltage controller for an electric motor where a receiver controls the rudder, speed and whatever else is controlled by the radio system
Old 09-01-2020, 05:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Hydro Junkie View Post
Okay, I'm confused. Are you running nitro or electric? You're talking about fuel tanks, which means nitro motor, and ESC, which means electric drive. Are you sure you're not talking about the receiver when you say ESC? If so, they are totally different as an ESC is strictly a voltage controller for an electric motor where a receiver controls the rudder, speed and whatever else is controlled by the radio system
Ahh. Yes. you are correct. It's the receiver, not an ESC. Thanks.
Old 09-02-2020, 07:22 AM
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Ron Olson
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The Ski-Vee 10 was made for .049's and up to .12's at the time but your .15 isn't overkill. Dumas hardware is junk and not made for today's engines. When I was building (a lot) of .12 powered boats there really wasn't a lot of things to choose from but now there is a lot more options. I found out with the little boats you have to squeeze everything in there and there's a pattern as how they need to go in. Today's electronics are smaller so they're easier to install. You ma have to make accommodations for the fuel tank, cutting into the front bulkhead to make room but a 4 oz. tank is plenty.
I used a lot of Octura hardware back then but there are other sources now.
I'll be around to try to give you a hand along the way with other things as you progress.

Furlotte .12
Old 09-02-2020, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Ron Olson View Post
The Ski-Vee 10 was made for .049's and up to .12's at the time but your .15 isn't overkill. Dumas hardware is junk and not made for today's engines. When I was building (a lot) of .12 powered boats there really wasn't a lot of things to choose from but now there is a lot more options. I found out with the little boats you have to squeeze everything in there and there's a pattern as how they need to go in. Today's electronics are smaller so they're easier to install. You ma have to make accommodations for the fuel tank, cutting into the front bulkhead to make room but a 4 oz. tank is plenty.
I used a lot of Octura hardware back then but there are other sources now.
I'll be around to try to give you a hand along the way with other things as you progress.
Furlotte .12
Thank you! I hadn't thought about cutting into the bulkhead for the fuel tank. I did notch it to fit the started on the motor which allowed me to move the motor slightly towards the front of the boat. I sealed the bulkhead after making the mods. I'll have some pics up shortly, which will give you a better idea of what I'm working with. I used the Dumas hardware because I didn't know what else to use even though I questioned if it was good enough. Thanks for the info!
Old 09-02-2020, 11:00 AM
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Welcome to Zippkits!, Model Boat Kits and Accessories! was a great help in getting me hardware for my .12 nitro boats but used the Octura stuff 20 years ago.
Old 09-02-2020, 01:39 PM
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I've used a lot of Octura and Speedmaster myself. Never had an issue with anything EXCEPT Dumas hardware
Old 09-02-2020, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Ron Olson View Post
was a great help in getting me hardware for my .12 nitro boats but used the Octura stuff 20 years ago.
Thanks for the links!
Old 09-03-2020, 10:22 AM
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Ok. Finally some pics of the boat I'm building.


Old 09-03-2020, 02:06 PM
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Okay, here's my thought on what you're dealing with:
1) Change your battery pack to a flat pack. You can place one of those vertically against the side of the radio box, using less room and having less weight
2) Swap out one of the servos for a mini or micro as they are much smaller than the standard ones you have in the boat now. Use the smaller servo to handle the throttle as the throttle won't need nearly the force of the rudder
3) As I said before, put the fuel tank in the nose instead of in the radio box. I'd also use a square or slant tank rather than what you have in the picture as they are less likely to leak than the one shown
4) Be sure to install pushrod boots where the pushrods come through the sides of the radio box. To not do so is asking to get water in the radio box and possibly end up with a radio failure

Not to be harsh or anything but you made the same mistake as many new boaters, including me. Before you install the deck on any boat, you need to figure out where everything will be inside said boat. That way, if you need to make minor changes to anything, you can. There are also many times where things need to be installed prior to completely installing the framing. I have that very situation with a pair of boats I'm presently building. Due to the arrangement of the boats, I have to install my fuel tanks under the deck on the left side of the boats, behind the motor. To make this work, I have to install the tanks through the frames in the lightening holes. The only way to do this is to install them while I'm assembling the framing because to do so after the framing is done will require major cutting of the frames, weakening the hull. Here's a link to a picture of what I'm dealing with:
https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/att...5&d=1375622366

Last edited by Hydro Junkie; 09-03-2020 at 02:17 PM.
Old 09-03-2020, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Hydro Junkie View Post
Okay, here's my thought on what you're dealing with:
1) Change your battery pack to a flat pack. You can place one of those vertically against the side of the radio box, using less room and having less weight
2) Swap out one of the servos for a mini or micro as they are much smaller than the standard ones you have in the boat now. Use the smaller servo to handle the throttle as the throttle won't need nearly the force of the rudder
3) As I said before, put the fuel tank in the nose instead of in the radio box. I'd also use a square or slant tank rather than what you have in the picture as they are less likely to leak than the one shown
4) Be sure to install pushrod boots where the pushrods come through the sides of the radio box. To not do so is asking to get water in the radio box and possibly end up with a radio failure

Not to be harsh or anything but you made the same mistake as many new boaters, including me. Before you install the deck on any boat, you need to figure out where everything will be inside said boat. That way, if you need to make minor changes to anything, you can. There are also many times where things need to be installed prior to completely installing the framing. I have that very situation with a pair of boats I'm presently building. Due to the arrangement of the boats, I have to install my fuel tanks under the deck on the left side of the boats, behind the motor. To make this work, I have to install the tanks through the frames in the lightening holes. The only way to do this is to install them while I'm assembling the framing because to do so after the framing is done will require major cutting of the frames, weakening the hull. Here's a link to a picture of what I'm dealing with:
https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/att...5&d=1375622366
Thank you for that information. It's exactly what I was looking for.
I'll order a battery pack and servo. Monday I ordered a different tank- https://www.amainhobbies.com/dubro-2...-dub402/p29329 I'm not sure if that 2oz tank will be too small for a .15? I have absolutely no idea how much fuel these motors burn. Do I need to reseal the bulk head or can I stuff some foam up front? Maybe some expanding foam to hold the tank in place? I've already purchased some boots for the pushrods!

This is my first boat build and I built the hull 25 years ago. I can see how more knowledge at the time would have made these final steps in the build process much easier, but I had zero idea and knowledge to be able to see multiple steps ahead, as I was just following the Dumas instructions for the build.
Thanks again!
Old 09-03-2020, 03:28 PM
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My first boat was a Dumas 30" Pay'N Pak so I know how bad the directions are. My boat was like a brick on the water, heavy as hell and underpowered using an HB 20, the appropriate sized engine for the boat. Now, 38 years and a lot more experience later, I built another one, but with a lot of changes. The new boat was built using birch ply instead of the mahogany, is lighter, wider and probably faster. I, like you, installed a modern engine that will kick out twice the RPM of the HB and is made for boats. Here's a link to a picture of the boat with just cockpit work and painting left to do, taken back in 2011:
https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/att...1&d=1375578202
Old 09-03-2020, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Hydro Junkie View Post
My first boat was a Dumas 30" Pay'N Pak so I know how bad the directions are. My boat was like a brick on the water, heavy as hell and underpowered using an HB 20, the appropriate sized engine for the boat. Now, 38 years and a lot more experience later, I built another one, but with a lot of changes. The new boat was built using birch ply instead of the mahogany, is lighter, wider and probably faster. I, like you, installed a modern engine that will kick out twice the RPM of the HB and is made for boats. Here's a link to a picture of the boat with just cockpit work and painting left to do, taken back in 2011:
https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/att...1&d=1375578202
That's awesome! I remember the Pay'N Pak as kid. I would have loved to have one of those boats!!!
Old 09-03-2020, 04:14 PM
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You still can, they still sell it. Another option would be to get plans and build a larger version, if that works for you
Old 10-20-2020, 08:05 PM
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A 75cc fuel tank is around a 2 1/2 oz tank, Sullivan makes a 2 oz tank that is much smaller than a rc truck tank.
I wonder why no one told you that?


The batteries, if you know how to solder you can remake the pack using 4 AA rechargeable batteries and lay them along the inner sides (Two on each side). Preferred would be as close to the keel as possible and make a floor over them.
(You want to avoid a top heavy boat so try to keep the batteries as low as possible. I wonder why no one told you that?)

Servos:
One up front on the side of the carb arm, and the other in the rear on the side of the rudder arm.
RX rear opposite the servo.
I wouldn't use a mini servo but if you do try to avoid the el-chepo minis and go with a Hitec mini.
I wonder why no one told you that.

Tank:
Place opposite the throttle servo up front. This keeps the weight centralised in the hull, you want it on the right side. if you notice my image all the weight is on the right of the radio box area. This keeps the center of gravity low when turning to the right.


Also nothing wrong with Dumas hardware at all. Just stay away from the rudder tiller arm as they are cast and do crack easy.


Just my 2 cent worth.


Last edited by kevinsburns; 10-20-2020 at 08:12 PM.

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