suzukiboy

I go and watch the Gold Coast Model Race Boat Club race at Coomera.

I have a dam up here in Jimboomba Brisbane I run mine in.
Haven't put the Hammer in the water yet.

rocketwheels

I all so try and get to the Gold Coast Model Race Boat Club race at Coomera.

I hope to be raceing with them one day.

bassproguy07

Ok I know this question has been asked before, but I cant seem to find the page it is on. I recently broke a prop on a submerged rock and am blaming the output shaft location. I want to upgrade to a surface drive but dont know what size, brand etc to use. any help would be great.

bbennettfl

Hello everyone! I’m having trouble with the hammer nitro connecting rod breaking. Once it broke while RPMs were high and once at idle while placing it in the water.

I’m thinking I just don’t have it tuned right, perhaps something with the low speed valve or im using the wrong fuel. I was given 20% ODonnell (car) by the hobby shop. The “car� sticker on the side has always concerned me.

Any help would be appreciated.

wave waker

[quote]ORIGINAL: bbennettfl

Hello everyone! I’m having trouble with the hammer nitro connecting rod breaking. Once it broke while RPMs were high and once at idle while placing it in the water.

I’m thinking I just don’t have it tuned right, perhaps something with the low speed valve or im using the wrong fuel. I was given 20% ODonnell (car) by the hobby shop. The “car� sticker on the side has always concerned me.

Any help would be appreciated.
[/quot


OHHHH! i miss this thread..

high rpm while prop is out of the water common cause of connecting rod breaking,,,i believed 20%nitro is not the culprit but the oil content is possible, for marine engine the usual oil% recommendation is 18, and how lean the engine running..

it should be the high speed valve needs adjustment to richen it up, low speed is for air mixture only so it not the cause.

bad bearings will cause the problem too.

i broke mine before but it's from abuse of using it..but it's fun though

bbennettfl

Hi WW - I defiantly have it running rich, as the sound is very distinctive and gas/oil is spitting out the pipe. The high speed was at 2 ½ the last time it froze at idle.

I mentioned the low speed valve because I was reading on another site that it can cause the motor to run lean, though the sound of the motor is clearly rich.

I will check the oil content of the fuel, and check the bearing when I pull it apart, thanks for the tip.

bbennettfl

Some links I found about the ODonnell 20% fuel indicate it only has 12-14% oil.

http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/fuel.html

I guess that would be a good reason for these issues I’m having. I’ll purchase the Red stuff recommend on the box.

wave waker

nice found of the fuel chart[sm=thumbup.gif]

bbennettfl

Anyone happen to know the low speed needle setting on the NH? Mine is almost all the way out (lean) and I’m thinking that may be the cause of my piston seizers at idle. I've never adjusted it, as the tuning video said not to, but i think it was never adjusted correctly at the factory.

oldschoolsdime92

Hey guys, I have been reading this thread for along time, But I dont belive I have ever posted. Anyways. I have a nitro hammer with the .15 engine. I have not been able to get a piston and sleeve for the engine for quite sometime. Aquacraft has not been able to give me a straight answer on this, so I decided its new engine time. I have looked at the aquacraft .18, the car version of the O.S .18 , and since I'm a long time associated fan, even the ae .12 car engine. If you had to buy a relativley cheap engine that would go in with out too much hassle and fabrication.. what would you go with.

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

The Aquacraft .18 ought to be just about a bolt-in. What you'd probably run into is that the engine can take a lot of prop, more than what can fit under the hull.
I've built several boats using .12 engines air-cooled and they do run quite well. If you can get air to the heat sinks you can get by with them. My hulls are low enough where that's not a problem.

oldschoolsdime92

yea, I am really leaning toward the ae .12. Getting air should not be an issue. Something else I considered was getting some small copper and maybe running it around the head also?

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

You shouldn't need it. In my boats I had to cut off some heat sinks to get the engines to build up heat as they were running too cool.
Consider that they're made to go under a Lexan body with a tiny hole going slow getting them in cool air coming off the water is a lot easier on them.
Keep in mind that all .12's aren't alike if you go that route. I found that out the hard and expensive way. The Aquacraft .18 is a great little engine as I have a Super-Vee 27.

oldschoolsdime92

what prop would I want under it if I go the .18 route?

oldschoolsdime92

also the .18 says to use atleast 30% nitro. I've got a bunch of 20 from when I was racing 1/10 nitro. Should I go with the 30 or would 20 be alright

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

The biggest one that will fit under the hull if you're still using the sub-surface drive. If you can only shoehorn a 35mm under there go with something like a 535.

oldschoolsdime92

This has probably been ran through over and over again but, will running car fuel in my boat hurt anything?

wave waker

IMO, any nitro % fuel will run any nitro engine just be particular with the oil% content, for marine engine most recommended atleast 18% no matter what nitro % is..

the only thing with car fuel is the oil% is lower than 18%, to fix this just add castor oil to bring it up to 18% but as castor oil is added the % of nitro is getting lower.

dicko

I found the aquacraft engine wasn't happy with less than 18% oil or less than 20% nitro. I ran 16% nitro for a while & it was nothing but hastles, changed to 20 or 25% nitro & it runs like a dream now.

kevin84

My Feedback: (1)

I did a search in this thread but didnt fint anything. Has anybody upgraded to electric start on thier nh and if so what brand did you use. thanks

dicko

I haven't seen any & i think it would make the boat too heavy. you can use a belt start without too many dramas if that's easier.

wave waker

i'm thinkin of ez start from traxxas...

dicko

if it got dunked it would be hard to start again until it's dried out.

kevin84

My Feedback: (1)

well i bought a nh from a member on here but it needs a new pull start so i thought i would just get an electric start as an upgrade but the weight issue comes up and dealing with hobby shops is a lot of drama. ill check into the belt start cuz i just bought a glo igniter which would be a waste of money cuz the ez start lights that also. thanks for your help.

dicko

you could try a tiger drive with a lot of grease in it to prevent corrosion.