GTjonnyR

hhmm sounds strange[&:]

saleens7

well, i found the problem, and i feel really stupid about it...i got the direction for the high speed needle setting reversed, so i was setting it richer and richer.....

i got to pay more attention to the instructions

GTjonnyR

Ok i notest my boat is running slow would it be a good idea to get rid of some weight mabyy
cut off some of the huge rudder about 1/4 of the back

is this any good would it help????

saleens7

i dont think the rudder weighs too much, i think its the strut, its way bigger than it needs to be, basically just a big chunk of metal.....im shure it could be trimmed right behind the adjustment bolts....may take off a few ounces...i think trimming the rudder works too, may help the spinning out problem when turning full right or left...

if you REALLY want to loose some weight, the spoiler and the bolts on the cowl can go, and maybe the turn fins can be replaced by lighter carbon fiber ones.

wave waker

u'l gain speed by trimming rudder, through decreasing the drag and not by wt.,, ur right rudder is over kill size.

GTjonnyR

whats happend to this thread??
no one has a shockwave anymore[&:]

LuckyDuc

I still have mine. It is just hibernating at the moment.

GTjonnyR

haha same here the lake is going to freez over soon

pedaladdictions

i'm just waiting for the thin layer of ice to melt n i'm gonna be on it chance of 50 deg temp today, am keeping fingers crossed mine is dried out from last barrel roll n ready to go.........

saleens7

mines hibernating also, but because of no time to run due to school.

pedaladdictions

really bits when you aint got the time to play with your toys, ,, ice melted enough to go burn up 1 1/2 tanks of fuel, wish could of played longer, least i didnt have to wring it out due to capsizing...

shumzz

Wow I just red this whole THREAD.
Well the wife just ordered my SW36 from Horizon for my x-mass gift so I went in and ordered the flex shaft from Prather PRA8020 some Prather flex shaft lube radio tape and a water outlet.
My check list so far is check throttle linkage and steering for binding use 600 to sand down if needed for throttle and grease steering linkage for smother operation threw rubber boot. Check gas tank for leaks in cap use gasket material to make a cap gasket.
My list of things to do to boat before operation foam up boat and hatch for anti sink. Replace the header and pipe rubber coupling any one have the part number on a good upgrade for this?

I run a Spectrum module in my Airtronics M11 for all my cars I have. So I will be installing the spectrum rx along with a 1400 Ni-Mh pack to rid of the JR gear. I will most likely replace the steering servo with a 200 oz Hi-tourq servo from Airtronics and Hi-speed from Airtronics for throttle.

Missing any thing?

saleens7

i would put some locktight on the pressure nipple on the exhaust...it unscrews easily with the vibrations from the engine and will cause you to loose pressure....you should also zip tie the ends of the fuel and pressure lines so they wont come loose either....also, the fuel line i have on my SW was touching the motor and it began to melt, so to avoid this, you should zip tie the fuel line to the motor mount so it wont get too close to the motor...

for breakin, use low nitro and high oil content fuel, it wont run good for breakin, but when your dont breaking it in and switch over to a higher nitro content fuel, it should perform better..

i would get a few extra glo plugs too, i went through 2 while breaking in...

ByronRC

My Feedback: (2)

Heres a stupid guestion. What end of the shaft do you cut?

saleens7

the one without the solid part.....you know where the shaft just ends without any solid shaft or anything, thats where you cut it...

ByronRC

My Feedback: (2)

DO i need to solder any of the cable before cutting?

saleens7

no, but solder the end of the cable after you cut it so it wont unwind....

ByronRC

My Feedback: (2)

Do you have any idea of what type of solder is best and about how much of the length is best to solder? By the way saleen7 thanks alot for all your help.

saleens7

just solder the end....uhh...i guess silver solder should do it...i dont really know, when i cut mine, i actualy didnt solder it, but thats cuz i dont got any solder

Shocker36

Hey/ I have seen this post before about leaking gas cap, and i did install a soda bottle type gasket and did not have any sucess. Everytime i come in off the lake, i have gas and water in the bottom of the hull. I was wondering if anyone has a better gas cap or maybe go all out and get a new tank? Also the water, im guessing that is coming through where the flex shaft comes in the hull? I use automotive grease on the flex shaft, i am going to switch to prather to see if that helps. Well any sugestions on either topic would be great. Thanks

shumzz

My first look at the dynamite .31 was wow look at that little CARB. How does that work, a .31 with what looks like a .15 CARB. Well that won’t work for me so I put in an Ofna Pico 8mm CARB part number 51341. You can have 2 different size venture PT# 51427 7mm & PT# 51429 9mm. This CARB it’s not a rotating CARB it’s a slider so I had to round up some tie-rods and ball-ends. I used a HPI Savage servo kit 85051 for the swing arm & mount. I used the same rod from the throttle servo just bent it to where I needed it to be and pit a cup end on it. The operation of the throttle seems to work. Ill test it this weekend.

Wannago100+

Shumzz, that carb looks like it should work good, How many tanks have you run on that motor? I ask because I see the exhaust coupler is like new and after about 6 tanks on my SW36 the coupler is black and needs replaced allready. I had it out today and clocked 36MPH with a chipped carbon prop and dull hardware. I know with a little work and new prop I should hit 40Mph.
I will be following your progress with that new carb, keep us posted.

Bryan

shumzz

I did 2 tanks for brake-in w/stock CARB, Then did 2 tanks about 2 1/4 turns on hi speed, still very rich w/stock CARB ran good. Walked on me from side to side needs some tuning. I did not like that carb setup.
before running the boat I installed the Prather flex shaft PRA8020 and polished, sharpend then ballanced the prop. Installed all my radio gear, I like to use Spectrum DSM RX along with a MDP 1400 Ni-Mh and Hitec HS5945MG for rudder.
I had to re-alighn the engine like I have seen before because it was off a little less them 1/4 of an inch. Once I got the flex shaft and enging to come to gether with no drag, I broke it in on a bench. I had to use a dremel to get the hitec servo in and also use plastic pices to give the servo something to have for support. Its a bit bigger then the pro boat servos.

airhead13013

i've noticed that some gas may be coming out of the carb opening when the engine is vibrating, and that might be the reason there is gas in the bottom of some boats. i might try to put an air filter with out the sponge on it to try to keep some of that gas in the engine.

saleens7

a lot of the gas used to be under the tank, in fact, the reason why there was gas under the engine was that gas was coming out of the hole in the stringers that held the tank that the gas lines passed through....what i did was zip tie the lines and stuffed paper towels under the tank...it didnt stop the leaking too much, but kept fuel from leaking everywhere...