bduncs

The problem is not of the starter being stuck or "gummed" up. The problem is the exact opposite, I feel like I am getting no friction when I pull the starter.

rcguy1411

there is a one way bearing in the engine that engages when you pull on the pullstart and freewheels when the engine is running the bearring s grab the shaft when you pull the rope if one of more of them stick it wont engage correctly you mat get lucky by spraying wd 40 in the engine but you should pull the bearing and give it a good cleaning but i would replace it because it has ended more days at the lake than i care to admit to the last time i fixed one of these it worked great at home fired the engine about ten times to make shure it was ok packed up the kid and boat headded to the lake whent to fire up the engine and nothing

amax

Yep as rcguy said the [link=http://www.dynamiterc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=DYN6479]1 Way Bearing[/link] is a Needle Bearing that grabs the [link=http://www.dynamiterc.com/Search/Default.aspx?SearchTerm=DYN0943] Starter Shaft[/link]
You can see an Exploded View Here [link=http://www.dynamiterc.com/ProdInfo/Files/dyn6450-explosion.pdf]Exploded View[/link]

It freewheels when the shaft sits still and the engine is turning, When you pull the rope it turns the shaft inside the 1way, the 1way grabs the shaft and turns the engine. If 1 needle is sticking inside the 1way bearing housing it Will Not Grab the shaft, and the engine Will Not Turn.

bduncs

Ohhhh... I see what you are saying now. Sorry I misunderstood the first time! Is the replacement 1 way different than the stock 1 way other than it is new and does not have oil/moisture causing it to stick? Any way to prevent this other than running After Run Oil in the motor?

rcguy1411

i find that they are just a part that needs to be replace every so often keeping your engine clean is the best way to keep them going for a long time like i said before you can clean them but there is no saying how long they will last ive had some work for gallons of fuel and others that were not saveable after cleaning i try to keep one in my box so i dont cut my day short as i can replace one in about ten minutes

amax

I always Flush the engine with WD-40 then use plenty ARO at the end of a day on the pond. The WD-40 flushes out the Fuel and Moisture in the block and the ARO coats everything. The 1way and starter shaft I posted are stock, straight off Dynamites website. If You replace them, I recomend you replace Both at the same time.

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

I haven't been in here for a while so here goes.
rgoers, you want the trim tabs about 1/16" above the bottom of the hull or you're going to be losing speed. John Finch tested trim tab settings many moon ago and found out that you can lose up to 8 MPH (!) by having them even with the bottom.
beau0090 09, the Octura X-447 or 448's are too much prop for this boat. I've got 2 M-445's sitting here going out in the mail today for bduncs that he sent to me to sharpen and balance. Try the M-445 or a Prather 220.

beau0090_99

Wow,
Even the X447 is too much. I thought the 230 that was stock was too much, but I can still get into the pipe on mine. But that it far taller than a 4series and about the same diameter as the 48. I may try the M-445. I am a bit confused by something I read about the props. One site said the X is a lifter prop, while I see on the actual package that it is good for mono's and cat's. I assume mono's and cat's don't use lifters, unlike the hydros and riggers. I also noticed that the X's have a larger blade face with the front lobe being much larger. Can anyone explain the difference? I may try the M445 and maybe the 447, just to see how they run. They can't be as bad as the 230 I have on their now. I'll also lift my tabs a bit to see how that works too. I have about 4 oz in the nose of the boat, so hopefully that will keep it from rotating through the waves.
Thanks,
Curtis

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

Not in the true sense that we look at props. The X and M series sre considered a low-lift props. When you get into Octura props that have a 4-digit number like 1445, that's a lifting prop. The M series are Modified props, detongued as they found out that the tongues were slowing the boats down.
While I'm in here typing about props, the Prathers have a constant pitch where Octura's have a progressive pitch. Think of it as when you cup your hands when swimming.

Now, as far as chinewalking at speed, that problem is that the trim tabs from the factory are set too far out. When the boat is at full speed, there isn't a lot touching the water and when it is neither are the trim tabs. They might have worked OK when the boat was new but now that people are finding ways to make it faster, the hull is going to ride higher out of the water.

rgoers

My stock setup wasn't even (side to side) to begin with. One side was higher than the other, which I attribute to sloppy workmanship. Anyway, if I'm losing 8 MPH from the tabs, then I have a 44 MPH boat! Wow, not too bad. I dropped my Garmin eTrex in it, which added quite a bit of weight to it, but I got it clocked at 36 MPH with the current setup. I'll try moving the tabs up a bit and see if I get any more speed out of it. At the time I set them where they're at, I was working on eliminating the chine walking.

As for the prop size, I don't think this is a one-size-fits-all solution. I tried a few smaller props, thanks to the guys I used to run with at the pond. The props the 'experts' thought would make my boat scream (i.e. x447), turned out to cavitate like crazy! The smaller the prop, the worse it cavitated. Props with 3 blades were just as bad... (I tried a 3-blade 447). None of them had any top speed at all... and it took forever to get up on plane. I am very happy with the 3 props I carry with me now. I have a Prather 230, and 235, and an Octura x448. The x448 is actually smaller than the 235, and about the exact diameter as the 230. It's been a while since I researched these props, so I don't have exact dimensions at my fingertips. Anyway, I believe that there are subtle enough differences between engines that may make one prop work great for one boat, but suck on another... I don't have any proof to this theory, other than the fact that I have tried certain props chosen by folks who know a whole lot more than me, and they have not been very good performers.

rgoers

Correct me if I'm wrong; but doesn't this basically say: "it's not getting oily; it's getting oily"?

rgoers

Thanks for the excellent info on the props. It's hard to get good info... seems like it's some sort of super-secret code.

Your explanation regarding tab locations makes a whole lot of sense!!! When I'm running WOT, only the last inch or two of the hull is in contact with the water. Seems logical that the tabs aren't in contact with the water at that time. Hmmm.... I just hate to drill any extra holes in my boat just to move the tabs. I wonder if I can find some tab upgrades that might be a little wider so I could get them mounted in the same holes, while getting them closer to the center. I might send some specs to my brother who works in a machine shop. :-)

amax

Did you not read the whole thing?



It's not the fact that the bearing is getting Oily causing the problem, the bearing is Not Slipping on the shaft. When Nitro Fuel dries in an engine the 2 Stroke Oil left behind is "Gummy" or "Sticky" and makes the needle bearings Stick inside the bearing housing, and Not Grab the shaft.

rgoers

Of course I read it... The reason I cleaned my one-way bearing with automotive brake cleaner was to cut through the oil, and free the roller bearings so they could grab the shaft. In case you didn't notice; we don't disagree... we're both saying the same thing!

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

Brake or carb cleaner does a great job of cleaning everything up around the pull-starter, I've even used fresh nitro in a pinch.
No, you might not see an 8 MPH loss in speed but much faster boats can suffer that much with incorrectly mounted trim tabs. Dull props can make the hull lay over to the side also. One problem with just about every RTR boat is that out of the box is that the props are dull and way out of balance. Those kill handling and can lead to driveline failures.

bduncs

I am having a bit of trouble figuring out my high speed needle, as I can't tell if its too rich or too lean.
I can not tell a difference between about 3/4 and WOT. It seems to almost bog down in a way. This made me believe that the motor may be too rich.
However, the engine is very hot when I bring it back to shore, and when I lean it out a tad, the performance becomes worse.

So I am confused if I am way too rich or if I am running too lean?

beau0090_99

Yeah, this can be tough to see. I had been running mine and when I get it on plane and run it full throttle, after a ahort time 10-20 seconds, it would pull back to half-throttle (without the throttle closing). After I let go of the trigger a little and let it cruise at that intended speed a while, I can punch it again. It was too lean, maybe even by a full turn. I also noticed that my exhaust coupler was starting to crack too, so that may have been bleeding off pressure on the fuel tank. There is really no harm in being too rich, not the case with too lean.
Regards,
Curtis

rcguy1411

sounds like you are lean depending on the weather temp and humidity also altitude i find that about 2 1/4 turns out works well for me but have gone plus of minus 1/2 turn

apache 1

Thought I'd share a little discovery with my fellow shockwavers. These boxes work great with our stands to hall your gear and keep everything organised.

stunter2b

LOL it says property of pizza pizza....I should call them and say Idon't want your pizza just one of these boxes...lol

Also Iwas curious whats the fishing rod for in the second pic?

rcguy1411

i need to get me one of those boxes !

amax

a fishing poll with a tennis ball on the line is a Good Retrieval tool.

stunter2b

Hmmmmm I'm glad I asked....just might have to try that....right now the only time I play with my boat is at my buddies house and that maybe once a month, cause he got a real boat and sit in the middle of pond, its great, just don't do it enough.

rgoers

I learned that trick many years ago, when I used to run electrics. The only time it *won't* work is when your boat is farther out than you can throw (or it is nose up, with the butt end sunk). I used a $10 1-man inflatable raft as a backup while I was in FL.

bduncs

[/quote]
sounds like you are lean depending on the weather temp and humidity also altitude i find that about 2 1/4 turns out works well for me but have gone plus of minus 1/2 turn
[/quote]

Can you describe the signs of being too lean and too rich?
I am having a tough time figuring out if I'm starving my engine, or if its too rich. I have smoke coming out of the engine and when I remove my plug it is a wet and blackish colored. Also, going WOT from 1/2 throttle it either hesitates and then increases RPM's or does not increase at all.
All these signs point me to being too rich, but when I lean the engine out the performance seems to get worse.

I understand giving advice based on an online description is very difficult without actually seeing and hearing the boat, but any help will be greatly appreciated!