Macleod

John,

Did the mods to the collet. Works great. Now got the flywheel installed.

Ron the any key man,

Cut down the 180 degree header to shorten the pipe. All good.


Thanks again guys for the assistance.......

Square Nozzle

My Feedback: (1)

Nice job Ross. Now think about dumping that toy engine and put in a good engine. I don't want the wind to blow your boat over as I pass you with my Wild Thing [>:][X(]

Macleod

Oh OH OH stop it John.........Im laughing too hard........[sm=lol.gif]

If you feel so strongly about my toy engine not being a good selection, than feel free to send me a engine that you feel is acceptable in my Wild Thing.......[:-]

Well...???........SILENCE................

Square Nozzle

My Feedback: (1)

Ross, I really wish I could afford to do that. You would be astonished at what that little boat can do with a hot engine.

Macleod

I will one day upgrade to a better engine, when I save up for one. [8D]

For now the cheapie (toy) motor will have to do.

I could have just used rubber bands that are cheaper...?????

STEVE MARSHALL

Hey Ross, the boat looks good, you have been a busy boy, it's about time you blew the dust off this project, you started in Dec 04.
Steve

jeremy242

I know i have seen this info before but i can't find it now so i will ask. Is the balance point for the wild thing hull still 30% ish from the transom for a nitro. I have a 26 inch version with a .15 and i have it balanced at about 9inches from the transom. I can still move things as they are just placed to check it all out. Also i have a teflon sleeve in a brass stuffing tube and need to know if that needs to be greased. I will have to grease the bearing but didn't know whether or not to grease the sleeve as well. Thanks

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

The whole cable needs greasing. If you don't, it will let you know with a really nasty sound.
With the CG that far forward you shouldn't need trim tabs.

Macleod

Just an over due update on my 'Wild Thing'.

I been doing a little bit here and there when time permits.

Still got to glue the remainder of the deck down, then sand, seal and paint.

The photos tell you more.

Macleod

John,

I got the flywheel and collet all sorted.

Modified the collet to the same profile as the coupling that came with the engine.

STEVE MARSHALL

Any updates on the build mate, i need some more ideas.

Macleod

Not much been happening with the build.

Lost interest in running the Gasser and building the nitro hull since going away back in June this year.

Bought a Tamiya Hornet R/C Car that has been keeping me distracted from building and running the boats. It fills in the R/C cravings.

I have finished the deck and primed and sanded the deck and hull ready for painting.

Shot of the back end showing my hardware.

Photos attached.

Now trying to find a spraypainter that will spray some coats of white on her.......still looking.......

Macleod

Given up on finding a spraypainter to paint my hull (wanted to charge too much or were not interested), so I have painted the hull my self.

First coat in down and waiting for more paint to arrive so I can put the final coat on the hull next week.

Trying the Lustrekote by monokote spray can paint. My only option without spray painting gear and two pack paint.

Nitro proof to 15%. Anyone had any experience with the lusrekote paint?

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

I've used it on several boats Ross that used high nitro and it held up well surprisingly. Clean pu any spils ASAP just ot be on the safe side. It seems that the longer it cures, the more fuelproof it becomes.
The paint hasn't got the brightest shine so the clear will help some in that department.
Also, the regular white makes a better base coat than the white primer and is much easier to sand should you get any runs or drips. I know, kind of late to tell you that now but just for future reference.

Macleod

I didnt end up using the primer white, just used the K&H sealer/primer then used the JET WHITE LUSTREKOTE as the first coat, ran the can empty doing test sprays and touch ups on the spots before the first coat. (USD$11 a can)

Should I use the clear coat after I get the second good coverage on the hull ???

First coat will have a week to set before I sand and apply the second coat.

Then I leave it to set for a while before maybe using the clear ?

Thanks for the input, oh wise one with an accent !!!!!

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

The instructions on the sides of the cans should tell you about the intervals of putting coats on otherwise you're going to make me go downstairs and look myself! [sm=lol.gif]

Square Nozzle

My Feedback: (1)

Wow!!!! Ross is finishing his Wild Thing. I thought you fell off the earth being down there on the bottom of the globe. Glad to see you're back. I'd be very carefull with using a different brand of paint as an overcoat so stick to the Lustercoat. Let the base coat cure a good long time. Out gassing of the base coat can result in lifting the clear coat. As Ron stated, you're probably going to be OK if you keep the boat free of fuel residue. It'll probably get gummy if you let it sit with fuel or fuel residue on it.

Macleod

I know you are all stunned that I am getting closer to finishing the Wild Thing, but my question still stands:

So if I get a good shiny final coat of white on the hull, I can avoid putting down the clear coat.????

And John, I will be looking at a better engine upgrade for this hull once I have her running with cheaper 'TOY' engine.

Square Nozzle

My Feedback: (1)

Ross, the only time I use clear coat on any of my models, be it a boat or a plane, is when I need to protect a decal or non fuel proof trim paint. Typically I use Epoxy as the final finish coat. I used to use K&B epoxy when it was available. Now I use Klass Kote. It's very fuel proof and leaves a very nice durable gloss finish. Be carefull to paint (spray) in a dust free environment and tack rag the surface immediately before you paint. Once the epoxy has fully cured, the surface can be buffed with a very fine polishing compound.

Macleod

Thanks for the info John.

I will prep the whole hull and deck like you described. But will paint the deck and both free boards first so I can see how the final white coat goes down. Then I will do the same with the hull and transom.

Will then leave the final coat to de-gas and then once cured, I will polish it all before re-fitting all of the components.

Will now design the decals for the deck while waiting for the paint to cure.

hyper701

wow good to see your almost done with your build!! i am also almost finished mine, i started mine about 3 years ago lol. im almost done with paint, wateing on hardware in the post, and about ready to install the radio gear. here is a pic of mine so far

Macleod

Looking good, I like the flames on the front.

Will be putting the final white coat on mine tomorrow morning.[X(]

Will start to put all the hardware and engine in her next weekend. I have everything already.

Did you use a mobile phone to take the photo of your hull, as it is a little dark and hard to see. Would like to see a better photo, maybe try out in the sun (if it stops raining).

Keep me posted on how the fit out comes along.

hyper701

here is a better pic, we have not had that much rain here yet, but it is expected. i need to give it a hit with wet and dry and spray on the last coat of clear (hopefully today)

Macleod

hyper701,
Didn't get your latest photo in your last post.[]

Here is a updated photo of my hull. All finished with the painting, just needs a little work with the buffing compound to get her a little more shiny.[sm=thumbs_up.gif]

Then time to fit her out.[8D]

Off tommorrow to run the gasser mono at our pond. Nice sunny warm weather with no SNOW !!!!!!

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

HAHAHAHA Ross, the snow is gone now up here! The ponds,lakes and rivers are overflowing with open water which means that we have to drive farther now to smash into the shoreline! [sm=lol.gif]