bjcri90

My drive system is lubricated constantly. I use a 1/10 scale car fuel tank for this.

This tank is filled with a mixture of 50% regular engine oil and 50% STP Treatment Oil (teflon). The tank is attached to the stuffing box and with exhaust pipe pressure, the flexcable is constantly lubricated. This 1/10 scale car fuel tank also has a built-in pump, so that I can pump a bit of oil manually, between heats.

This way, the bronze bushing in the strut is constantly lubricated, and won't be subject to any wear-and-tear, even after a few years.


p.s. i can e mail a diagram to anyone who is intested just post your e mail adress

ejp67

My Feedback: (5)

Can I see it??? I'll pm you my adress if you will.

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

you can use smaller items also for a lube reservoir. One of our new members, krpnova, uses a R/C car boost bottle to lube his cables on his OB tunnels. An old R/C car shock could be adapted the same way.
K&B tells in their owners manuals to use 20w50 racing oil in with the STP. I tried this mixture out in my monos and it does the job too.

Macleod

I like to see it also, please...

My email is : [email protected]

TERBObob

My Feedback: (21)

[&o]
I'd like to see the oil stream left behind in the lake .... [&o]

bet that WON'T go over too good with some places run .
I'll stick with the wheel-packing or marine grease , thank you . Already tried a setup close to that , and the oil trail that the boat left was VERY noticable and NOT appreciated by the on-lookers . ( AND , I live in a small town in NE Iowa .... )

Macleod

What about the oil coming out of your engines exhaust ...????

Thats around 16% to 20% (or what ever % you use) of oil in the fuel you use for the day that ends up in the pond water also.....
Plus the little amount of unburnt fuel too.....

How much oil is lost from the drive shaft ?? Yes grease is better, but you still losing oil.

TERBObob

My Feedback: (21)

I agree , yes , you dod indeed loose /put out unused oil , BUT , the John Q Public , who is watching you , and not really to thrilled with this noisey thing to begin with , sees the oil that is coming right up from the boat .....
the exhaust oil is at least not dumped right ONTO the top of the water and folks can't see it taht much .
Mind you ... I , myself am not complaining , just saying that there are WAY too many folks out there that look for the slightest little thing that you do when you are running your boats , so they can complain to the local PD or officials to stop you .
What I was getting at , was , this is just one more thing for them to complain about .
Ya know the ole saying , right ? What you can't see , doesn't hurt you ...
And thats about the total summing up of those kind of folks ....
If they can see it , or hear it ... then its time to b*tch ....

ejp67

My Feedback: (5)

I totally agree. Thats why you need a privet pond. I run mine at my dads friends house I we were worrried he was going to be mad about the exhaust oil. He also uses the pond to fill his well though. But I think the ground filters it pretty good before it gets to his well, but I don't know.

eas___1990

hmmmmm this water kinda tastes like oil....oh well i run mine but i never even noticed the oil from the exhuast,and no one else does either.heck people even like it...except the fishermen

CFRACR

Do this Guys. Take two clear glass jars and fill with water. Put some nitro in one & that nasty oil mix mentioned above. See what happens, watch it for days. I would like to see some comments after that experiment.

qweedqwag

My Feedback: (18)

Nitro fuel is mostly castor oil the breakes down rather fast in water and, is biodegradable. The synthetic takes much longer, if you are racing on a pond and it is a reservoir your drinking that stuff and so are your family, don't be a polluter just cause nobody can see the oil sheen on the water, its this kind of attitude that get ponds closed to RC boating and ruins it for the honest guy.


Mike.

DMACK

My Feedback: (9)

You could run a nitro boat for the rest of you life and not put in as much oil as an old two stroke evenrude on the back of a fishing boat will dump in 1 hour.

I usually just solder on some of the leftover stuffing tube vertically onto the drive tube with a small hole in the bottom of it. Fill it up before your first run, and it usually lasts for 2 or 3 runs before it needs a refil. very small light weight, but still gets the job done. Just don't put it too close to where the flex shaft comes out as the oil will come out the top instead of the bottom.

TERBObob

My Feedback: (21)

True , but haven't you ever noticed , that those activists/complainers aren't there ... but rather only where and when you run your RC boats ..

jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

I have a KB 3.5SS and i wondered what would happen if i taped off the four holes down by the propshaft, load up the pinhole in the top with oil from a syringe and then connect pressure to the fill hole, and let the oil pump itself through the clearance in the drive washer area, instead of dumping out of the holes. The lower unit halves have to be sealed (or at least the drive areas) for this to work good though i would think. It would cut down the oil loss, keep water contamination down out of the oil in the stubshaft bushings, keeping that going longer too. A sealed system is the answer, but never provided by the manufactures though. And its doing more than tearing up parts for me (prop stub shaft assemblies $$ ), when that wears just a fraction on an O/B....there goes your trim setting....and it doesnt take long for that to happen.

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

This was just brought up on another site a few days ago! Jim Irwin and the owner of the Lawless lower units where talking about the very same thing. Jim has a new 3.5 OB motor coming out soon and it won't have the holes like what the K&B's do. Now Lawless is going to try a few of his without the holes at the bottom. Jim reports longer life with the flex cables and no rusting. He is using a mixture of STP and ATF for lubrication.

CFRACR

You can take four allan head set screws & cap the little holes in the lower unit pretty easy. Use one to lube the bushing in the shaft. Tapping the top side of the lower unit also provides with easy lubing of the flex shaft. Tap the teflon tube & bamm you have a easy to lube set up.

I use a syringe with a piece of fuel tube @ the end. I suck up a full syringe worth before the days running. (6cc) It will hold 1cc before overflowing the other side. This is done before every full tank run. Takes seconds & just put a screw in the end of the fuel line to prevent leakage and toss the syringe in the field box.

The 50/50 mix needs to be right or it will be like pushing honey through a pin hole.