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Drag N' Fly 40

Old 12-18-2005, 10:54 PM
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Default Drag N' Fly 40

I have been wanting to build this one for a long time, and finally own one. I have one other 40 hydro and thats the Eagle Sport 40. It built nice and straight and the finish turned out great so im happy. This one is a nice cross between the older round nose hydros and the new ones, should be interesting to see how it flys.

The kit is old and most of the bulkheads aren't flat anymore, but I had planned on tracing it and using my own fresh woods anyways, maybe gluing up some mahogany sheets for the decks and keeping those clear. Whats different I noticed with this one is it doesn't use any mahogany, unlike the smaller .20 size version. It is all birch plywoods.

I posted a couple pictures for those that dont know the boat.

I was wondering if anyone else has built one, to see what they used for motors, running gear, ect. and building and finishing tips.
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Old 12-19-2005, 09:12 AM
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Default RE: Drag N' Fly 40

The Drag N' Fly dates back to the 1960"s. I have both the "19" size and the "40" hanging in my shop (long since retired). Both boats are highly modified in an attempt to keep them on the water. They "flew" very nicely with more modern power. Pickle forking was the mod of choice to keep the nose down. I modified the sponsons in an attempt to eliminate the nosing in tendancy is rough water and added an air dam at the front of the tunnel to kill the lift. I suggest that you concentrate on keeping the weight forward also. There is to much tunnel area on the boat in the original design. Put in a modest engine like the K&B 40 Marine and you should have a fun boat. Note the term "Fun". Against modern heat race boats you don't stand a chance.
Old 12-19-2005, 11:04 PM
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Default RE: Drag N' Fly 40

Yep that's what I'm aiming for is fun. I have my other hydro to burn laps with that has the OPS. This one is going to be pretty much built just for play.

What I am looking for out of this one is having something I dont have to worry about parts for, like you mentionied using a KB40, something respectable for power but yet not too expensive or hard to find - but it must be able to lift the hull.

I am going to concentrate on fit and finish on this one. There is one thing about boats that are different from most other r/c stuff...is if you build it nice, it stays nice. Which brings up a question that I have concerning me wanting to deck this with mahogany. I can find the sheets (3" wide starting at 1/32" thick on up) but no thin mahogany veneer plywood. I would prefer the ply as it is stronger, plus it can cover the span in one piece.

Does anyone know a source for that type of ply? And if I can't find any, would anyone have an idea if the decks would be too weak with just the solid sheeting? Or should the thickness increased?
Old 12-19-2005, 11:54 PM
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Default RE: Drag N' Fly 40

The closest source of plywood for you would be Midwest Products or Balsa USA with Midwest being not too far from you.
I've been in Portage, IN for a rest stop on the way home from Chicago. There was a Pizza Hut right off the highway that had the absolute worst service that I've ever gotten in a restaurant, a 45 minute wait just for them to take our order and the place was almost empty!
We have a Portage here also, Kalamazoo on the north side of I-94, Portage on the south side.
Old 12-20-2005, 12:17 AM
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Default RE: Drag N' Fly 40

I dont think i have ever got good service at a pizza hut, and i keep trying non-the-less! What do they put in thier pizza's? I crave them.

Anyways, yes...Midwest Balsa is right here in town. Thats where I seen the 3" mahogany sheets. Problem is they are just sheets...lol...no ply, I even called them to see if they would know where to look, no luck.

I've never had to scrounge wood before, always built kits. I know aircraft birch is all over the place, but I think maybe I might have to learn how to veneer to get what I want for appearance.
Old 12-20-2005, 12:47 AM
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Default RE: Drag N' Fly 40

I've used a lot of www.midwestproducts.com 's lite ply, it's some of the best around but a little more expensive than some others. There is a place in Texas called Lone Star Balsa or something like that that some others boaters swear by and another company in California whose name escapes me at the moment but there isn't much of a difference in price between them and Lone Star, a matter of only a couple of cents per sheet.

I have a friend who has a Drag 'N Fly 60, kind of a funny handling boat but I think that he may be running the wrong prop on his. He's has it for a long time and is holding up well.
Old 12-20-2005, 01:03 PM
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Default RE: Drag N' Fly 40

Let me show you a boat covered in 1/64th VENEER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It was epoxied to 1/16th ply birch skin AFTER the boat was completely built, but before any paint work was completed. BTW, this boat is 60" long and about 24" wide. For the record, under that fantastic Allison 1710 V-12 is a Zenoah G230 (with a Hanson Indy Mod) with a tuned pipe. The smaller one in the background is a 36" version powered by an Astro 25 5-turn electric with 12 sub C Nimh cells. The same person also built the 1973 Budweiser , which is 34" long and uses 14 cells.
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Old 12-21-2005, 09:29 AM
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Default RE: Drag N' Fly 40

Mahogany veneer would be my suggestion also. However, if you want to avoid the process of skinning with 1/16" birch and then covering that with the veneer, I've see the birch ply stained with something like Minwax mahogony stain. It really looks good. The only issue you'll have to conqure is keeping the glue off the surface to be stained. You'll have incomplete stain penetration over glued areas resulting in light spots. Consider staining the deck skin before you epoxy it in place or plan your paint scheme to cover the glued areas.
Old 12-21-2005, 11:05 AM
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Default RE: Drag N' Fly 40

The veneering looks like the way to go. I've tried the stain on birch before and it does represent itself pretty good. I hear ya about watching out for glue spots if I go to stain it. I been building wooden prop boxes with pegs for my props and learned the hard way with the first one...LOL.

Veneering with epoxy sounds like a challenge. I suppose I would try and veneer the ply skin first, then cut and glue it to the hull. Contact cement is what Im wondering about, if it would stay good over its age. I have learned to trust epoxy most of all, but thinking this might stiffen up the wood too much when I go to deck with it. Maybe the reason why your builder chose to apply it after the ply was down.

I'm having a really hard time finding a good inboard hydro strut for the back of my boats, they are all too tall and having to cut them down even to the streamlined section to mount them to have them fit below the deck line. Seems there isnt any inboard struts for thin transoms, or small props with a shallow prop depth. Am I not finding the right suppliers?
Old 12-21-2005, 11:33 AM
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Default RE: Drag N' Fly 40

Four things on using the epoxy/veneer combo:
1) Do only one section at a time. Trying to do too large of area will only make the job harder
2) Use no faster than 24hour epoxy, anything faster might cook off before you get done with the veneer
3) Work from the centerline outboard. Starting anywhere else makes it hard to line the grain up with the boats long axis
4) Be sure to cut all your veneers oversized. It's almost a certanty the veneer will end up too small if you try to prefit it to the hull.
Old 12-27-2005, 10:15 PM
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Default RE: Drag N' Fly 40

Thinking of all the compound surfaces on the deck, what is used to hold the sheets down to the epoxy, especially if just staying with the 3" wide sheets, where you cant go all the way to the edge to tape down? Or is the veneer thin enough to wet itself down into the epoxy?
Old 12-28-2005, 11:15 AM
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Default RE: Drag N' Fly 40

What was done on the "Charlie" was epoxy down the veneer, followed by wrapping that section with a non-adhesive packing tape(kind of like a heavy "Saran" Wrap) to hold it down till the epoxy cooked off. Your boat will be harder because of the raised center bay bulkheads
Old 04-09-2006, 03:00 PM
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Default RE: Drag N' Fly 40

I found some pictures of one on eBay and thought it would be nice to add them to the post for reference photos. This one looks like it was converted to O/B power
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