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The unofficial Home of all that is Nitro Vee...

Old 12-21-2009, 02:15 PM
  #1476  
3zz
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Default RE: The unofficial Home of all that is Nitro Vee...

yes-i have worked/reworked/reworked again the n/v for yrs.-because i knew it was a good basic design-i could afford any boat at any price,as i make 225k yr-check out "outer limits"-i could buy this with friggin'pocket change-but its not about money,its about the challenge-i have an os .18 in my v now,this boat SCREAMS!!!!(i had a juan perez mod trx.15 previously,which i did myself,and it was FUN, but just thought i would upgrade to a modded os.18
Old 12-21-2009, 02:32 PM
  #1477  
3zz
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Default RE: The unofficial Home of all that is Nitro Vee...

rc production boats are all crap-why doesn't someone produce the ulitimate boat-NO MODS NEEDED-reliable-fast-right prop/cooling/electronics/radio-ready to run-no break downs-guess i might have to do this myself,as i have been working in this direction,many ideas,many years-think there is a market for this boat?-look at the problems with the "legendary"SV27-"kink in driveline"-have to tape hatch"-wrong prop-chine walk-on and on-those reps sold that piece of crap as the "ulitimate"-bull****-"unbelieveable"-put your opinion in-isn't it about time?
Old 01-20-2010, 03:54 PM
  #1478  
moto826
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Default RE: The unofficial Home of all that is Nitro Vee...

hi i am new here and am getting a niro vee is there any thing i need to do before getting it wet or any good mods to do thanks and lets see pics of you guys thank you
Old 04-21-2010, 07:48 PM
  #1479  
Budaslate
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Default RE: The unofficial Home of all that is Nitro Vee...

Hey guys I'm new to rc boating, and I just picked up a used Nitro Vee for a 100 bucks. It seems to run well enough, but before I start running it i figured i would take it apart and get some of the damaged plastic fixed and so on. I have all the electronics out, and I have a couple of questions about the hull.

Is there any way toseparatethe upper part of the hullfrom the lower one? In the exploded view it looks like they comeapart, but I'm not sure if they are bonded with some sort ofsiliconeor something.

Second, I have the out drive off of the boat, but i cannot seem to remove the plasticpiecesthat the out drive was attached to. Are they glued to the transom?

I am thinking of using anepoxyto repair the couple of areas where the hull was damaged, and then i want to paint it. Ive read through this thread, and it looks like there are a couple of paints that are gas resistant, like blue flight ibelieve. do i need to prime the hull to use that?

Thanks for any help you guys can provide, and please excuse any newbie questions.


Hadi
Old 04-23-2010, 07:37 AM
  #1480  
dawg1200
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Default RE: The unofficial Home of all that is Nitro Vee...

Well Then They Coulnd sell Parts, LOL I Kinda Enjoy Tinkering With My Rc Stuff But They Shoud Sell A lower Budget Class For Those whoe Enjoy Building Up The Model To Their Liking?
Old 05-06-2010, 10:59 PM
  #1481  
Budaslate
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Default RE: The unofficial Home of all that is Nitro Vee...

Some pics of my nitro vee project so far:

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Old 05-07-2010, 10:10 AM
  #1482  
astronomer1
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Default RE: The unofficial Home of all that is Nitro Vee...

Budaslate,
It looks like you are on the right track as concerns rebuilding your boat (specifically your hull). The epoxy repair should work fine although you still will have to be careful not to spill Nitro fuel inside. Probably the best thing to do before you finish the hull' would be to paint it with a few coats of fuel proof paint. If you don't paint the inside, wipe the fuel up immediately as it will soften the plastic hull. I rinse my Vee out with a heavy dose of Windex followed by copious amounts of water even though my hull is completely covered inside with fiberglass which is virtually fuel proof but heavy. Try to minimize the amount of Windex and water you get on the critical running parts. (IE:Radio,servo's, clutch, U-joint, and anything else that that may be damaged by water causing corrosion ). After I shake out all of the water that I can, I dry it with a hair dryer. (cheap at Good Will, etc.).
I like the reinforcement that you put in at the stern. Since it makes the stern thicker you will probably have to use longer screws on the hardware that you need to attach. Also the old drive shaft grommet probably won't fit properly. Use silicone sealer there to seal the drive shaft housing after cleaning the whole area very thoroughly so the silicone adheres properly. I would also put a small dab on all other points where screws penetrate the stern to prevent H20 leaks. Looks like you have designed a new hatch cover lock down method.Good work as Velcro comes loose, and off goes the hatch which doesn't float.
Put your steed together carefully, pay attention to details, get it on a pond ASAP and you should have lots of fun.
Old 05-07-2010, 10:32 AM
  #1483  
Budaslate
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Default RE: The unofficial Home of all that is Nitro Vee...

Thanks Astronomer,

The paint I used on the hull is Top flight, I was told by my LHS that it is fuel proof.  I did have to change the hardware for the items i mounted on the stern, but that was no biggie.  As far as the grommet, and the push-rod seals, i had to cut the back lip off, and insert them in the holes after i re-drilled them, then i used silicone to hold them in place and seal them all the way through to the other side.  Seems ok so far, but we will see if it holds once its in the water.

I have a TRX 2.5 Marine on order from Traxxas, that should hopefully be here soon, then I can finish the build on this boat.  Ive read through most of this thread and figured out what I will need modify to get that motor in this hull.  Im planning on putting a bell crank from an tmaxx, and a modified water pic.

I purchased the metal ujoint from kyosho, but it seems that its a bit too short for this application, all though i can make it fit by shimming it with washers, it seems to make the driveline bind up a bit, so im still looking for a better solution there.

Cant wait to have this sucker in running order and get it wet.
Old 05-07-2010, 10:53 AM
  #1484  
Budaslate
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Default RE: The unofficial Home of all that is Nitro Vee...

One more quick question Astronomer,

I noticed you have a water outlet on the side of your boat.  I purchased one, but I'm not sure if it will work because of the space between the inner and outer hulls.  Do you know how much space is there?  the outlet has a nut that needs to go on the other side to hold it in place, but i don't think I will be able to tighten it as I can't reach in between the two parts of the hull.

Thanks


Old 05-09-2010, 10:10 PM
  #1485  
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Default RE: The unofficial Home of all that is Nitro Vee...

Budaslate,
To answer your question about the space between the outer hull and the inner hull, it is somewhere between 1/4-3/8". I had the same problem that you apparently are having with the water outlet fitting being too short to go through from the outside of the outer hull through to the inside of the inner hull. I solved this problem by carefully drilling a 1/16" pilot hole through the outer and inner hull where I wanted to install the the fitting. I did this to accurately locate the place to drill a large hole in the inner hull to allow a small socket wrench to fit for tightening the washer and nut on the water fitting. After drilling the large inner hole for the proper socket wrench to fit through, I drilled the correct sized hole through the outer hull for the water fitting where the original pilot hole was located. You could probably use a Dremel tool to make the inner hole. When I finally installed the water fitting I put a dab of silicone sealer on the fitting so that water can't get into the hull. It's probably not necessary to use sealer as the outlet is above water line. When you finally get your boat together, be sure that the water outlet hose from the engine head does not rest on the exhaust manifold. It will melt and allow cooling water to fill up your boat. Not a good thing! I had this happen and fortunately got my boat to shore before it sank. I now use a short piece of auto windshield washer hose (fairly heat resistant) from the engine cooling head outlet to the hull water outlet fitting. While running across the water, a lot of water flows through the cooling head of the engine which shoots out about 12" from the H2O outlet. Note, all of the drilling and water outlet fitting installation was done with the engine removed. Sorry for the long answer to your short question. I hope it is of some help to you.
Old 05-11-2010, 08:19 AM
  #1486  
Budaslate
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Default RE: The unofficial Home of all that is Nitro Vee...

That sounds good, i will give that a shot for the water outlet.

Any ideas on the u-joint? I purchased that Kyosho U-Joint, but it is quite a bit smaller than the stock one. even when shimmed with washers, it seems to make thedrive linejam up and bind. I think i may have to use the stock one, or find a longer metal one.

Thanks for all the help.
Old 05-11-2010, 08:26 AM
  #1487  
lipdaddy
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Default RE: The unofficial Home of all that is Nitro Vee...


ORIGINAL: Budaslate

That sounds good, i will give that a shot for the water outlet.

Any ideas on the u-joint? I purchased that Kyosho U-Joint, but it is quite a bit smaller than the stock one. even when shimmed with washers, it seems to make the drive line jam up and bind. I think i may have to use the stock one, or find a longer metal one.

Thanks for all the help.

Hobby-lobby sells u-joints made by graupner. They're really nice and fit great.
Old 05-18-2010, 08:24 AM
  #1488  
Budaslate
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Default RE: The unofficial Home of all that is Nitro Vee...

Ive read about that U Joint,consensusseems to be that its about the same strength, maybe a little stronger than the stock one. With the trx 2.5 motor I'm thinking metal is the way to go.
Old 05-21-2010, 05:52 PM
  #1489  
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Default RE: The unofficial Home of all that is Nitro Vee...

About U-Joints, I used a Kyosho 4mm all metal Universal Joint Part # 94425. I bought it directly from Kyosho America (Google for their URL), since no local hobby shops carry them.These days, unfortunately, there is almost no such thing as a local hobby shop. The Internet has all but put them out of business. At the same time I installed the U-Joint, I installed 4 flanged 4mm ball bearings in the complete drive line including the Out Drive. I off hand don't remember the bearing specs. or where I purchased them on line. I could get that info since
I have the original package they came in.I had to fabricate a new drive tube to accommodate the ball bearings. I made the new drive tube longer than the stock tube to minimize the # of spacer washers/shims needed to make up for the Kyosho U-joint. My modifications do not seem to improve the boat's performance notably. The stronger almost bullet proof medal U-joint along with never having to replace the inexpensive bronze bearings. The stock bearings seem to work fine if they are periodically checked and replaced as needed. Whenever I take my Vee apart , which is seldom, I change the the bushings as cheap preventative maintenance. You can probably get by without installing ball bearings and making a new drive tube. Just shim the metal U-joint very carefully and you should be good to go. Good luck! If you want pictures or some more info. ask for it in this forum.
Old 05-22-2010, 10:45 AM
  #1490  
3zz
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Default RE: The unofficial Home of all that is Nitro Vee...

the kyosho "U"- is MUCH better than graupner,all metal-no plastic-assuming you have gotten the o.s.18,to replace the traxxas engine,-if you have-the os will trash the graupner "U",and ALSO you must check grub screws every couple runs,as the force has increased,on things, the boat is now much faster,but it wasn't designed for this from traxxas-but it will withstand it with a few mods-this is a very good basic design
Old 05-26-2010, 02:10 PM
  #1491  
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Default RE: The unofficial Home of all that is Nitro Vee...

Projects pretty much done. Here are the updated pictures:


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Old 05-26-2010, 09:08 PM
  #1492  
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Default RE: The unofficial Home of all that is Nitro Vee...

Budaslate
Nice work and great pictures. Looks like you have a real potential runner. I found the package for the ball bearings that I mentioned in my last post. They are DURATRAX 4x17mm, Part# DTXC1509, 2 per package. They are Teflon sealed and are "permanently lubricated".
I got my VEE running today, not in a pond but in my test tank which is 1/2 of a plastic 55 gal. drum and a 1 gal jug with hose connected to the head for cooling.. Too windy to hit the pond. It ran great until I swamped it with the water kicked up by the prop at full throttle. I shut it down before it sank. Well the receiver got wet causing the servo's to chatter then go full rotation to the stops. Glad that didn't happen on the pond. Chances are it wouldn't happen as not much water gets kicked back when the boat is moving forward across the water. My receiver has its boards potted with conformal coating. All other openings (crystal, antenna, servo leads, and power leads) are sealed with silicone caulk. The seam around the receiver' box was taped with super sticky Teflon tape. Well, I thought it was water proof. NOT. It is however splash resistant as after pond runs it often has water splashes on it and has never let me down. Think I'll dip it in some of that black coating (available at Home Depot) that is use for tool handles just as a preventative measure. I did that to my servo's and greased the axles with silicone grease. Have not had a servo failure yet from water. I have a micro switch for the RTS. which is dipped. Now I need to install a water proof ON/OFF switch with a method of operating it when the hatch is on. Add a snorkle to the engine intake and maybe I would have the first Nitro VEE shallow submarine.[sm=drowning.gif]
Old 05-26-2010, 10:06 PM
  #1493  
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Default RE: The unofficial Home of all that is Nitro Vee...



I took her out on the water today. Results were mixed. The engine ran great, having some trouble with the rts leads poppin off, but thats an easy fix. The big problem im having is it seams the boat is unstable at speed. as soon as the boat gets on plane, and picks up any speed it seems to spin to one side. The stearing is also very touchy, I can barely make a turn without spinning out. I though that the spin fins were suppossed to assist with this, so im not sure why its happening. I played with the trim tabs, and the stearing trim trying to get it to not spin, but no luck. It seems to favor the left side which is a little odd because the battery's are on the right side of the boat, and you can actually see it lean just a bit to the right when in the water. That being said, it still spins out to the left when i get an speed at all. Its pretty frustrating because Ireally wanna see what it can do, seems to have alot of power, but i cant keep it stable. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I like the idea of plastidipping the servos. I went to my LHS, and i picked up a gasket set for the traxxas 2075, and 2056 servos that are waterproof from the factory, you can take those gaskets and put them on a 2055, or a 2070 and get your self a water proof servo. It takes a bit of doing, but it works.

Old 05-28-2010, 09:22 AM
  #1494  
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Default RE: The unofficial Home of all that is Nitro Vee...

Budaslate,
Sorry to hear about your difficulties. Though not an expert, your spin-out problem is probably due to several things. The first thing that comes to mind is that you have a torque problem due to the extra power that you have from your engine mod. As a real airplane pilot, a prop plane always tends to want to turn to the left when throttled above normal cruse power. All airplanes are trimmed for normal cruise power as that the setting used for 99% of flight. Anyway to adjust for high power settings a little right rudder must be applied. Airplane props turn clockwise when viewed from the cockpit. A Nitro Vee's prop turns counter clockwise or the opposite direction of an airplane thus causing the tendency of the boat to want to turn left and spin out. Your boat will always want to turn left at any speed except for the speed that you have trimmed for. To fix this, adjust your out drive servo so your boat runs straight at your chosen power setting, which sounds like full speed in your case. This is my opinion only. Do some experimenting. Maybe your prop. angle is not optimized and your boat is to be too bow heavy or too light. Do keep your spin fins straight. Play with your trim tabs, they also effect your boat's attitude. Good luck and don't accept all I have said as fact. All I've said is only some unproven B.&. theory that I've come up with.
Old 05-28-2010, 09:28 AM
  #1495  
Budaslate
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Default RE: The unofficial Home of all that is Nitro Vee...

I appreciate the help astronomer.  I have not tried changing the trim of the prop.  I will give that a shot.  the prop im running is the Carbon/plastic one from grim racer.  it was the one recommended by Offshore for this hull.  i believe its 40mm wide, but im not sure about the pitch.  Ill be out of town for a week or so, ill give this a try when i get back and let you guys know how it turns out.

Thanks again
Old 06-22-2010, 04:24 PM
  #1496  
apache 1
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Default RE: The unofficial Home of all that is Nitro Vee...

Well done. Always wanted to due the same but couldn't find the engine anywhere. Didn't know if everything worked with it. Nice to see it does. Hope you get your handling issues worked out.
Old 09-03-2010, 04:00 PM
  #1497  
Venom nitro v
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Default RE: The unofficial Home of all that is Nitro Vee...

Hey guys i just got a nitro vee a few weeks ago. i have not got to run it yet i need to get a new reciever for it. also i think before i run it im gonna do the cooling upgrade to it i have read about on here. im also trying to find a tuned pipe and prop kit for it as well. any ideas on where to get these things now seeing that this thred was started 4yrs ago.?


thanx guys.

great pics of all your boats they look amazing
Old 09-03-2010, 06:25 PM
  #1498  
astronomer1
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Default RE: The unofficial Home of all that is Nitro Vee...



Venom nitro v

I purchased my tuned pipe on Ey and got it for a song. It is a Macs Products Stock#1110 made for .10 to .15 engines.
Their Web Site is" http://www.macspro.com/". They are quite pricey. Look on the Bay and you may be lucky and find one. Other pipes will surely work but be sure to buy one that is designed for the displacement of your engine. Mac's website has a lot of good information for tuning the exhaust. I think that their information is geared toward airplanes. The exact same principals apply to any engine. Buy yourself a header from Traxxas, Part #4450 including gasket and mounting screws. Try to use Allen head cap screws for mounting the header since this is a Hot high vibration area where there is a lot of expansion and contraction that ultimately will cause the mounting screws to cime loose. Allen screws can be tightened quite a lot and more easily in the cramped quarters where the header is located.
Just a few tips that may help you. I learned the hard way by having my header come loose and cause numerous things like reduced fuel tank pressure that killed the engine several times before I figured things out.
If you are new to the Nitro-Vee, you may want to first get things tuned up and running well with the stock exhaust system before installing a tuned pipe. There is a lot to learn and we have all paid our dues to get these nice little boats running well.
That is my opinion only. Either way, get busy, and have fun with your new boat.
Old 09-03-2010, 08:23 PM
  #1499  
Venom nitro v
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Default RE: The unofficial Home of all that is Nitro Vee...

great thanks for the info and advice. yes i am new to the nitro boat sean, how ever i have been running nitro trucks sence 2005. i think i may end up painting mine as well. its all white except it has the stock blue stripe in the center.
Old 09-03-2010, 09:04 PM
  #1500  
Venom nitro v
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Default RE: The unofficial Home of all that is Nitro Vee...

hey astronomer1 what did you use for your water outlet and where did you get it. also any info for the prop kit would be greatly appriciated. thanx again for all the info. i cant wait to get this thing in the water. i also have a blast i hace to do a few things to like a water cooling kit that i have already and need to replace part of the drive train

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