jmshark

I ORDER THE SAME THING LIKE ON YOUR PICTURE BUT KNOW I M THINKING 24 INCH IS THAT FOR YOUR THUNDERCAT ? DO YOU CUT THE SHAFT ??[&:]

gooycheese

Yes you have to cut to fit, just use a dremmel cut off wheel or a grinder will work. I would solder the end thats cut so it wont unravel later.


Paul

jmshark

THX BODY I LIKE THIS IDEAR

wikedgmc

need a new flex shaft, anyone know were they are in stock? Also will need a 6mm to .187 motor coupler. Thanks for your help

jmshark

horizon hobby .com BACK IN SCTOCK

jmshark

M445 REALLY GOOD PROP I THINK KNOW IM DOING 40MPH I WILL FIND OUT SUNDAY I WAS ALONE TODAY BUT THANKS REALLY GOOD PROP.
I FORGET K&B DID YOU TRY TELL ME [:@] I WANT TO KNOW IS IT FAST, REALLY FAST or REALLY REALLY EXTRA FAST

yolanda

thanks jmshark for the prop info

Nostradamus

ok, well i just bought myself my first Nitro powered Boat... and it is a Thundercat. I have some experience with nitro cars, so i'm not worried about that end, what I am worried about is that my Radio isn't working... I put the batteries in both the transmitter and receiver, and it doesn't do anything. I know the polarities are not messed up, the radio is on, the servos are operational, and the switch on the boat is fine.

This is all the stock equipment that I am talking about here, i just wanted to post to see if anyone else has had this problem or would know of a possible solution before i go back to the Hobby Shop i bought it at.

Thanks to anyone who may be able to help.

Arrie

The best is take it back to the shop cause if you fiddle with the radio the warranty will be void.

Nostradamus

also, i forgot to mention something... In the box, there was this thin copper ring about an inch in diameter in a small plastic bag. Can anyone tell me what this is for? because i see no mention of it anywhere in the directions.

gooycheese

That is a head gasket. In the directions they say you can remove all but 1 head gaskets after the engine is broke in, I think there is three in there too start. I believe the extra one is just that, but it could be a different gauge so you have more options on the head clearance you desire.


Paul

Hesco Racing

You dont mention whether you checked the TX and RX cryctals whether they match. Iff not thats possibly where your fault is seeing that everything else works. That ring is a head shim similar to ones you would have had in your nitro cars. This is used to adjust your squishband on the motor. I had a discussion in this thread before on this topic. It helps to sometimes just page a few back and read everything everyone has written.

Nostradamus

i actually have looked through the thread quite a bit, and i figured that's what it was for. The crystals do match though, they both say Rx band 4

fun4ej

My Feedback: (1)

make sure all the servo wires are fully plugged into the receiver. make sure both crystals are fully plugged into their spots. then make sure the switch is working properly. If all those things appear to be working but aren't, then I would take it back to the store.

Hesco Racing

The one in your transmitter should be a tx not a rx. t for transmit r for receive

Arrie

That is you problem if they both say RX band 4 the one in TX must say TX and the one in the reciever must say RX band 4.

Nostradamus

yea, it looks like that might be it... they both definitely say "Rx"

thanks for the help guys.

Nostradamus

so i went to the hobby shop i bought it from today and got a new set of crystals and it works, once again, thanks a lot for the help guys.

Hesco Racing

Its always a pleasure

fun4ej

My Feedback: (1)

I finally got a gps reading in my TC31 with my mods....38.6mph. I'm running trinity platinum 30% (car fuel), prather S225 with cupped tips, no head shims removed, starboard sponson fuel tank and cooling coils on the header and pipe. My motor is singing around 160 deg. so I don't think I want to lean her out any more. I plan on shaving material off the strut and sanding the sponson pads and squaring all the edges of the riding surface. I want to get into the 40mph club!

wave waker

nice speed[sm=thumbup.gif]looks like ur goin there, IMO .32 dynamite works great between 160oF to 190oF, more than that it starting to loss power...u can push a lil' bit more.

when i was testing my tc31 for speed i'd use 65% nitro, m445 and x440/3.

Hesco Racing

Why has this thread slowed down. On Saturday past we had a raceday and myself and Gerald kicked the other comp &^%(. He managed to win 6 out of 6 heats. The SW36 could only se our spray

yolanda

the only reason gerald won was because he was clever to go slower then normal on the choppy water. you were right about the spray. the reason why the shockwave only see the spray of the tc31 was because he laped the leader once or twice in a heat. you could have seen for yourself that the shockwave was faster on the coppy water then the tc31. unfortunatly a leaking feultank and mixed frequencies kept me out of completing my heats. it was a nice day for racing. congratulations to gerald for 1st place,you cobus with 2nd and i will drink a beer on my 3rd place. see you 1sept. for next meeting

Team A-Hull

How does this boat handle under different water conditions? Whats the run time for this nice looking nitro?

kdigga

Hi, I've had my thunder cat approx. two weeks and the breakin went fine. I'm new to the hobby so I'm looking for some help. While breaking the motor in the only problem I had was with the start up. The electric start worked fine but everytime put the boat in the water and started to take off it stalled. Seemed like I had to warm it up for a minute or two and then it was fine. Is that normal? Now I'm past the break in period and the boat seems to be difficult starting. Usually have to crank on it for several minutes before it fires. Again, I'm new to all this so any suggestions would be a great help. Thanks in advance.